Replacing fuel filter troubles

[wtftoy]

I tried replacing the filter today. Took off the quick fitting line on the top of the filter. Easy enough but the bottom bolt , I held the top bolt with a 19mm and the bottom 14mm with a flare nut. And it gets stuck, won't loosen and I don't want to use too much force and bend the fuel line. The bolt looks rounded too . I read this is a pretty common problem for camrys, via the search.

Some of you guys said that you replaced part of the fuel line that connects to the fuel filter with a high pressure fuel hose and a camp. Anyway you can tell me where you bought the hose and clamp from and what size is the fuel line there. Also what do you use to cut the line?

Thanks guys. Hoping to get answers soon before I have work on weds.

Forgot, car is in sig.

[Albuynp Ryeno]

Well for me I went to the junk yard to get the part of the fuel line that i twisted. Then i went to a car store like autozone or pep boys only not a major chain, and they sold fuel line hose. Since i had the part from the junk yard i was able to find the best hose to use at the store. Also i used a tool like this to cut the fuel line in the car. http://www.tradecounterdirect.com/pr...ubecutters.jpg

[bronzemaxell]

i just replaced 97 4cyl fuel filter over weekend, i started on saturday 10am, and finished by 2pm, a lot of patient and bitching, this is the 2nd 97 4cylinder fuel filter i replaced, both has a very tight buttom nut, i used a 19mm to hold the big nut, and the 14mm flare to hold the smaller one, when i first broke it loose, i thought, haha, easy, then i started turning, and it become tighter and tighter, i have to take out the charcoal canister, giving me more room and keep using 19mm and 14mm flare together to loose the bolt by going back and forth direction, the next day, i started feeling pain on my arm and hand. after i took out the fuel filter, and look at the nut on the fuel line, and it wasn't strip. i am guessing many gen 4 4cylinder are like that, maybe some expert here has trick to make 4cyl fuel filter change easier. i've changed gen3 v6, gen 4 v6, no problem, easy to loose, 10 minutes job max.

[clodbuster]

I had some real trouble myself trying to change the fuel filter on my 98 2.2 but, it wasn’t trouble getting the nut off, it was getting the new filter to seal on the bottom flare nut. I ended up putting the old one back on and leaving it be, as Toyota claims they are lifetime filters (not that I really agree with that). The point is.... even if you get the bottom nut off your troubles may not be over.

Here is the thread on my troubles: Leaking fuel filter

Good Luck.

[Mickyblue]

yeah mine was impossible to get off, i have to wait for when i do my oil change again i'm just gonna have to toyota do mine.

[wtftoy]

Yep couldn't take mine off at all, tried for a few hours. So tighten everything back up and going to do some more research on getting rubber fuel line and just cut the old one.

I don't think toyota will change it since they will say its a life time item, I guess they don't want to bother with it.

I tried replacing it because I smell fuel odor during startup, guess thats something else I have to look into.

[Albuynp Ryeno]

it sucks for u people who live where it snows. I just replaced on my new cali car. I didnt even have to use a 19mm wrench. Thats how easy it was.

[WulfSeven]

Get a 5/16" (7.9mm) Goodyear fuel hose, a 5/16" brass hose fitting for the bottom end of the fuel filter and 5/16" stainless steel hose clamps. I never had a gas leak and all of the connections are still good. The tube cutter Ryeno suggested is exactly the one I used, easy to use and you can find one in a plumbing dept in Home Depot or some home improvement store.

[tomalex]

Greetings-I just went a few rounds with the infamous Toyota fuel filter on my 97 Camry 4 cylinder. I live in Florida so there was no rust on the bolts. The top bolt came off easily, but the nut on the bottom resisted a flare nut wrench and vise grips(rounding the nut). And of course, you can't squeeze too hard with the vise grips lest the nut and/or fuel line get crushed or distorted. Like many on this forum, I was also told by the Dealer that these fuel filters are life time(nonsense) and he recommended that I not mess with it unless it was clogged. After he told me they put Loctite on the bottom nut from the factory, I decided to throw in the towel since I figured the game was rigged at that point. In the event that it did some day clog, I was quoted $50 USD for labor and $36 USD for the filter. I guess I can live with that since I'm not ambitious enough at this time to "cut it out " and replace the line. Cheers

[JohnGD]

Generic fuel hoses are for low pressure carburetor systems. So I wouldn't use those.

It would be better to join another steel fuel pipe to the one you cut off using suitable SAE unions and flares. Use a new flare nut to the filter without the dealer economic stimulus threadlocker.

[SexieWASD]

I have to do these every once in a while, older hondas use the same type as well. I will be doing mine today because I have the head off of the engine (5sfe) so it's easy to get at, and why not? take the top nut off, then loosen the bracket that holds the filter on, put a big pair of vice grips in the fitting for the line, and a long wrench on the filter's bottom nut. if you can space them so there is a few inches between the vice grips and the wrench. squeeze them together like they are one tool. The filter should break loose. you want to turn the filter off from the line, don't even bother trying to turn the line fitting, 90% of the time doing that will twist the line.

Every once in a while I find one that has enough rust on the fuel line to make it impossible to do without breaking the line, if it gets to that point you should probably consider getting the lines replaced anyway. The only filter that I have not been able to replace was on a 10th anniversary edition accord with 298K miles on it. The owner didn't want to spend the money to replace the line on a car with so many miles, and so much oil leak everywhere.

[esvipron]

Originally Posted by bronzemaxell

i just replaced 97 4cyl fuel filter over weekend, i started on saturday 10am, and finished by 2pm, a lot of patient and bitching, this is the 2nd 97 4cylinder fuel filter i replaced, both has a very tight buttom nut, i used a 19mm to hold the big nut, and the 14mm flare to hold the smaller one, when i first broke it loose, i thought, haha, easy, then i started turning, and it become tighter and tighter, i have to take out the charcoal canister, giving me more room and keep using 19mm and 14mm flare together to loose the bolt by going back and forth direction, the next day, i started feeling pain on my arm and hand. after i took out the fuel filter, and look at the nut on the fuel line, and it wasn't strip. i am guessing many gen 4 4cylinder are like that, maybe some expert here has trick to make 4cyl fuel filter change easier. i've changed gen3 v6, gen 4 v6, no problem, easy to loose, 10 minutes job max.

It is the same. I did it and it takes a lot of patient and calm. There is no other way, unless you want to remove all around.

[ghettosled]

Originally Posted by JohnGD

Generic fuel hoses are for low pressure carburetor systems. So I wouldn't use those.

It would be better to join another steel fuel pipe to the one you cut off using suitable SAE unions and flares. Use a new flare nut to the filter without the dealer economic stimulus threadlocker.

i agree with this as well. thought when a line broke through, i used a rubber fuel hose for a couple of weeks until i installed a new line. it held like a charm, though i still wouldnt use it as a permanent fix.

[73sport]

^^ SAFETY! Think SAFETY! If you wish to burst into flames on the highway burning your car to the ground, your house, your neighborhood, the forest . . .. blah blah blah, than use a rubber hose BUT YOU'RE MAKING HUGE MISTAKE!!!!

Hint: By the time you realize you have leak that pump will have a GALLON of GAS pumped all over!!!!


Replace the line set or make a proper repair using union and a dooner pipe. yes, it will take more time, but it might save your life!




Details: each time you turn the key 30 to 70psi builds in that fuel pipe and if you rely on a rubber hose over a smooth pipe because you cut it off due to damage, the pressure cycles can easily push the hose right off the pipe and make a catastrophic leak. Don't Do it!

[97ToyCar]

Here's a repost of the procedure I did. I won't be doing it again for the next 30K, thank God...

Good Independence Day to you fine TN folks,
since we are going out of town this morning, I decided to change the fuel filter, since I did not know when the PO had done it last.

Here is a blow by blow procedure, since many have asked before, perhaps this will be of some help to you.

1) Start by removing the negative cable (-).
2) Remove the air box. To do this, undo the two large box clips at the fender end first, then reach to the engine end of the filter cover, and remove the cruise control cable from its clip, and remove the cable next to it from the tension spring. Leave the spring attached to the air box. Loosen the clamp from the intake hose. Then, remove the IAT sensor (just wiggle the whole sensor out with the wire attached.) Remove the vacuum hose from the cover. Remove the air box cover from the engine area.

3) Remove the air filter.
4) The lower cover is held by 3 10MM bolts. Remove these, and remove the lower cover from the engine compartment.
5) Using a 14MM (FLARE NUT WRENCH)!!!, remove the lower fuel line, until it is free. You don't need a backup wrench on the filter, but if it helps, use it.
6) Using a 17MM (FLARE NUT WRENCH)!!!, remove the banjo bolt from the upper end of the filter. remove the banjo bolt, and make sure you get both of the crush washers from the banjo bolt, and from the underside of the fuel pipe. Throw them away, make sure you have 2 new ones. They should come with the new filter. Unclip the wiring harness attached to the tab on the filter mounting bracket.
7) Remove the 2 10MM bolts that hold the filter in place, and lift the filter from it's mounting location.
8) Reinstall the new filter to the frame holes, and tighten securely. (There will be some movement afterwards, but that is normal, due to the rubber mounts on the filter.) Clip the wiring harness attached back on to the tab on the filter bracket.
9) Start the threads on the lower fuel line fitting, and hand tighten. Use the 14MM wrench, and snug the fitting tight. ( I found out that I had to to give a final big tug on the fitting before I was done, as it was leaking fuel afterwards, but finally it was blessedly dry...whew...
10) Install the lower crush washer on the top of the filter (just set it on top), under the main fuel line fitting. Install the upper crush washer on the banjo bolt. Tighten the banjo bolt securely, using the 17MM wrench.
11) Reinstall the lower air box with the 3 bolts. (10MM). Make sure the end of the air box slides on the end of the intake hose at the fender, otherwise the bolts won't line up.
12) Install the air filter.
13)Install the upper end of the air box. Make sure to reinstall the IAT sensor, and the rubber hose to the fitting on the airbox. Remember to place the cables from the cruise control assembly back into their clips, and reattach the second cable from the transmission back into the spring clip, that you removed earlier. Reinstall the intake hose to the top of the air box, and tighten the clamp securely. Reinstall the negative (-) cable to the battery.
14) Start the engine. It will crank over for a bit before it fills the filter and pressurizes the fuel rail, but it will start. Immediately check the lower fitting to see if it leaks fuel, if it does, snug the lower fitting again, as I had to do. Check the upper banjo bolt as well for leaks. If all is dry, you are finished.
15) Wipe up any spilled fuel, and that's it!

I noticed an immediate improvement in performance, much more responsive than it was before.