3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
ok valves i know what "Valves" are but to adjust their timing...doesnt that have to do with timing belt, taking it off and advance time it?
that's waaaay too much work with the few tools i got....i dunno.
Oh no.... and you put on a fpr and tried to adjust it not knowing this. How much damage do you think you did by putting on a fpr and what you stated was going to lean it out? Do you know what will happen if you lean an engine out too much?
Anyways, to adjust valves you need a valve cover gasket, 10mm or 12mm wrench, flat head screw driver and a set of feeler gauges, also a socket and ratchet to turn the crank. All you are going to do is make sure the measurement is within specs on the clearing between the valve and rocker or cam lobe. Its not rocket science. If you can turn the crank, use a set of feeler gauges, replace the v/c gasket, and know where tdc is, you can do it.
But put down the tools and step away, don't risk blowing it up when you don't know what the outcome or how to do it. I still can't get over you attempting to lean the afr out, you could have burnt up the cylinders or pistons.
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1990 Yota truck - 2wd 4spd, 22r. Lowered 5", 17" Ford Escape rims, flat green paint.
1992 Camry - Going back to stock. GONE View my parts for sale - http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...47#post2908847
Oh no.... and you put on a fpr and tried to adjust it not knowing this. How much damage do you think you did by putting on a fpr and what you stated was going to lean it out? Do you know what will happen if you lean an engine out too much?
Anyways, to adjust valves you need a valve cover gasket, 10mm or 12mm wrench, flat head screw driver and a set of feeler gauges, also a socket and ratchet to turn the crank. All you are going to do is make sure the measurement is within specs on the clearing between the valve and rocker or cam lobe. Its not rocket science. If you can turn the crank, use a set of feeler gauges, replace the v/c gasket, and know where tdc is, you can do it.
But put down the tools and step away, don't risk blowing it up when you don't know what the outcome or how to do it. I still can't get over you attempting to lean the afr out, you could have burnt up the cylinders or pistons.
so adjusting valve timing i just need to pop the valve cover?
i've done that... but to do all that i'll have to do some more research
ok get over it, i lowered my fuel pressure by like 2-3 psi at most before i put it back up.
so adjusting valve timing i just need to pop the valve cover?
i've done that... but to do all that i'll have to do some more research
ok get over it, i lowered my fuel pressure by like 2-3 psi at most before i put it back up.
You're not adjusting the valve timing, you're adjusting the valve lash. In other words you are adjusting the gap between the cam lobes and the valve tappet. If you didn't know, and after reading this thread I'm pretty sure you don't, the tappet is the part of the valve that comes into contact with the camshaft lobes.
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"True terror is to wake up one morning and discover that your high school class is running the country." - Kurt Vonnegut
You have 16 inverted bucket followers with shims that vary in size. There are no rocker arms. There are special tools needed to adjust these without removing the cams. The measuring and adjusting needs to be done when the engine is cold. if you are not sure how to do it I suggest taking it to a pro or at least obtaining the factory service manual copies pertaining to this. If you have 90k or better on it I suggest replacement of the valve seals as well which does require removal of the cams and several special tools including an air compressor. If you do replace the valve seals start changing your oil more often or use a synthetic. Lots of gum on the cams on this one.
Cleaning an IAC rarely helps. You usually have to pry it free with a screwdriver and then it only usually works for a few months at best.
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Ex Toyota MDT 28 years of experience. I still fix them daily by appt only. Written warranty-great prices. References available.
You have 16 inverted bucket followers with shims that vary in size. There are no rocker arms. There are special tools needed to adjust these without removing the cams. The measuring and adjusting needs to be done when the engine is cold. if you are not sure how to do it I suggest taking it to a pro or at least obtaining the factory service manual copies pertaining to this. If you have 90k or better on it I suggest replacement of the valve seals as well which does require removal of the cams and several special tools including an air compressor. If you do replace the valve seals start changing your oil more often or use a synthetic. Lots of gum on the cams on this one.
Cleaning an IAC rarely helps. You usually have to pry it free with a screwdriver and then it only usually works for a few months at best.
Thanks for explaining that better, I forgot that the camry's have bucket shims.
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1990 Yota truck - 2wd 4spd, 22r. Lowered 5", 17" Ford Escape rims, flat green paint.
1992 Camry - Going back to stock. GONE View my parts for sale - http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...47#post2908847
before i started tryin to fix the problem, the mileage was consistently 300-330 miles to the full tank
now it's 200 miles.
that's after I replaced the O2 sensor, which was done properly.
maybe it has to do with the fpr, but i keep it at 38 psi which is what is was at when installed it.
i dont think i can solve this problem without really doing major work with the engine, but i don't really feel like it, so i might as well swap in a V6 in the following summer.
i think i'll get a 1MZ from a 2000+ gen4 camry or something and swap everything in.
probably gonna spend close to another 2k doing that. but then if someone got the tools and knowledge to do so, or know a good shop where they can do it for a good price, please lemme know.
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