Please help, engine stalling problems

Wow, its great to see a forum dedicated to a truly awesome car!

I have a great little 4cyl Camry, with 112K. Just bought the car second hand, put in a little work to get it up to snuff......
tranny flush, cv boots, front engine mount.
The car runs fine, just a concern came up the other day. When I was driving for nearly 30min at 60-65mph, I slowed down on an off ramp
from the highway, letting up on the accelerator, applied brake, slowing to a stop. The engine started to sputter a little, and the oil light flashed a few times. The engine finally quit while I was stopped. This has happened only twice, the second happening today, clearly an intermittent problem. Previous highway trips have been fine. This problem has only occured when the car is at operating temperature, warm. The car has a slight vibration at idle, possibly because of a low idle speed set in manufacturing. Should the idle be adjusted?

I just recently had the oil changed, with lube and new oil filter. During the highway driving, however, I noticed the temperature gauge fluctuating from close the the "H" then down to "C". The gauge didn't go the extreme in either direction, mainly in between.
Could this be my EGR valve? Mass Air Flow Sensor? Also, should I check the fuel filter? I'm wondering perhaps if this is part of the problem.

Thanks!

Paul

[T6nnS]

Well my families Camry had similar problem about stalling when on idle. The problem as far as I know was the EGR valve which was stuck. After making it operable againt the problem went a way. Hope this helps.

[jermag24]

Originally Posted by 1995CamryLE

Wow, its great to see a forum dedicated to a truly awesome car!

I have a great little 4cyl Camry, with 112K. Just bought the car second hand, put in a little work to get it up to snuff......
tranny flush, cv boots, front engine mount.
The car runs fine, just a concern came up the other day. When I was driving for nearly 30min at 60-65mph, I slowed down on an off ramp
from the highway, letting up on the accelerator, applied brake, slowing to a stop. The engine started to sputter a little, and the oil light flashed a few times. The engine finally quit while I was stopped. This has happened only twice, the second happening today, clearly an intermittent problem. Previous highway trips have been fine. This problem has only occured when the car is at operating temperature, warm. The car has a slight vibration at idle, possibly because of a low idle speed set in manufacturing. Should the idle be adjusted?

I just recently had the oil changed, with lube and new oil filter. During the highway driving, however, I noticed the temperature gauge fluctuating from close the the "H" then down to "C". The gauge didn't go the extreme in either direction, mainly in between.
Could this be my EGR valve? Mass Air Flow Sensor? Also, should I check the fuel filter? I'm wondering perhaps if this is part of the problem.

Thanks!

Paul

Do a search for "idle" or "IAC". This could be your idle control valve being dirty. There are a few posts on here that will tell you how to clean it. It's pretty easy. A dirty IAC (idle air control valve, same thing) will make your idle fluctuate and sometimes kill your engine. It only costs the price of a can of carburetor cleaner, so it's a cheap fix.

thanks for your suggestions!

I'll check out the "Idle" or IAC valve. the car seems to idle ok at stop lights, the engine just quit after a 25-30min jog on the highway, slowing down to a stop.

What does the EGR valve help with? Is it also known as a gas temperature sensor? I heard the EGR vacuum modulator valve can be worn. It could be affecting the vacuum in the engine, right? my manual says the egr valve is on the intake manifold underneath.

Paul

[Kep]

I had a similar problem that turned out to be a clogged EGR valve. However, the IAC valve wouldn't surprise me.

Now, in order to get to the EGR valve easily it helps to remove the throttle body and by happenstance, the IAC valve is also accessed by removing the throttle body. I would encourage you to clean all three. Also check the EGR modulator and the vacuum hoses connecting the EGR to the modulator. While you're at it clean out the PCV valve.

Kep

Originally Posted by Kep

I had a similar problem that turned out to be a clogged EGR valve. However, the IAC valve wouldn't surprise me.

Now, in order to get to the EGR valve easily it helps to remove the throttle body and by happenstance, the IAC valve is also accessed by removing the throttle body. I would encourage you to clean all three. Also check the EGR modulator and the vacuum hoses connecting the EGR to the modulator. While you're at it clean out the PCV valve.

Kep

"I would encourage you to clean all three."

just in simple terms, you would suggest to clean out the EGR, IAC and EGR modulator valves- or throttle body? sorry, just didn't follow

thanks!

[T6nnS]

The problem might be either of those and to make sure which it is, you should check both the IAC and EGR out.
To learn about what the EGR does click here (don't pay attention to Fords specific info, the basics are there) and here.
Please apologise for my english, it isn't my first language.

[Kep]

I was proposing to do the EGR valve, Throttle body and the IAC since they're all in the same area and it makes sense to do them together. Then I waffled and included the EGR modulator and the PCV valve though you can do those any time.

Kep