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3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 07-18-2008, 03:16 PM   #1 (permalink)
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clicking on front passenger side

Hey guys. Car is a 94 LE I4 and for awhile now there's been clicking on the passenger side of the car when driving.

First I thought there were rocks or a nail in the tire or something, because that's exactly what it sounds like, however both front and rear tires are clean, and the noise happens quicker than if there was a single stone in the tire.

The only thing I could think of that was different on the passenger side was that it had an older cv axle...the one on the drivers side was replaced a month or two ago. However, I was under the impression that you mainly hear noises from bad axles when going through tough turns, this noise happens when driving straight, and does speed up with speed increase.

It sounds like the other guy has a thread similar to this, though I didn't want to hijack it.

Thanks everyone for input.
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Old 07-18-2008, 03:21 PM   #2 (permalink)
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If it clicks on slow turns then it's your CV...
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Old 07-18-2008, 03:23 PM   #3 (permalink)
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It clicks while not turning at all.
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Old 07-18-2008, 04:43 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94cylcamry View Post
The only thing I could think of that was different on the passenger side was that it had an older cv axle...the one on the drivers side was replaced a month or two ago. However, I was under the impression that you mainly hear noises from bad axles when going through tough turns, this noise happens when driving straight, and does speed up with speed increase.
I was going to say CV as well, untill that line. Hub Bearing is shot. Replace it ASAP. Jack the car up and spin the wheel to make sure. I'll guess you'll also feel the clicking when you spin the tire by hand too.
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Old 07-18-2008, 08:39 PM   #5 (permalink)
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To check the wheel bearing, try moving the steering wheel left/right when driving to shift the car weights to from one side or the other. Determine if the noise becomes louder or softer.

Could also be something in the brake/rotor setup.
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Old 07-20-2008, 12:19 AM   #6 (permalink)
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How easy is it to replace this hub bearing? How much for the parts? And why ASAP? It doesn't seem to be hurting anything, only that it clicks when I drive. Though I would like to fix it.

Toyomoho, if the noise does become louder or softer than it is the hub bearing? Or not?

Thank you guys, and sorry for the delayed reply.
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Old 07-20-2008, 10:13 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Looks like a fun install...lol...

EDIT: So this is what I need to buy?

http://www.autozone.com/R,2140589/ve...ductDetail.htm

If I pull the tire off, I guess I'll have to tear that whole thing apart to see if it even needs replacing. Hmm...
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Old 07-20-2008, 11:21 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Mine has been doing the same thing for a while AND it makes a noise while turning, both on the drivers side. I suspected the CV joint for the latter and have heard it's a PITA to replace, but I was unsure of the source of the clicking as you described. I'll have to check out the bearing on mine.

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Originally Posted by 94cylcamry View Post
Looks like a fun install...lol...

EDIT: So this is what I need to buy?

http://www.autozone.com/R,2140589/ve...ductDetail.htm

If I pull the tire off, I guess I'll have to tear that whole thing apart to see if it even needs replacing. Hmm...
When I looked it up that's what came up for the part. After reading a bit on the install in the Haynes manual, this seems like it will also be a PITA (it states it may be better to have a professional do the job)

If you replace yours 94cylcamry let us know how it goes
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Old 07-20-2008, 12:26 PM   #9 (permalink)
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If the rear bearing it is a straight forward replacement of the bearing unit (housing and bearing).

The front bearing is pressed into the steering knuckle, you will need a press take the hub/knuckle/bearing apart and reassemble. To do this you will need to take the knuckle off the car.

If your shop is setup for these kinds of jobs it is OK, but if not it can be a pain.

It would be possible to get the parts, remove hub and have an auto or machine shop replace the bearing. This would save some money on labor in taking the suspension apart which is not too hard.

With the suspension apart you can also inspect the axle and axle bearing. If the axle was never replaced and you plan to keep the car would suggest replacing the axle at this time as almost every thing is now off (this is what I would do). They don't last forever.

There is another bearing in the axle shaft setup. It seldom fails but it does rotate with the tire and could make noise (although doubt it but possible). A new axle comes with this bearing.

With the suspected wheel off the ground, rotate the tire. Listen for noise and feel for bending and rough spots. keep in mind the disk brake rotors can bind on the pads a little.

Grab the tire at 3 and 9 o'clock and shake the tire feeling for access bearing play.

The idea behind turning the steering wheel and shifting the cars weight is if the bad bearing is loaded down more it may make more noise. If the bearing is unloaded as the weight shifts it may make less noise. If the clicking gets louder or softer as the weight shifts then would suspect a bearing.

The inspection for a bad bearing is to install a dial indicator on the hub and check for runout and backlash.

Backlash (in/out movement of hub) Front and Rear bearing = 0.0020 inch. Hub runout Front = 0.0020 Rear = 0.0028

For parts prices and part photos suggest you check websites such as www.rockauto.com.
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Old 07-20-2008, 12:56 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Hmm...I'll try the sound test again. It's sort of hard, because the noise is really only apparent when I'm next to a wall or curb or something so the sound can bounce back at me. So no, it isn't crazy loud.

I'll jack the car up and spin the wheel...this looks a little more complicated than I thought though. I agree though, if I somehow do muster up the courage/time to do this, I'll definitely replace the passenger side axle. The drivers side one was done a little while ago, and the passenger side boot is torn anyway. Hmm.
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Old 07-20-2008, 01:19 PM   #11 (permalink)
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If the boot is gone, odds are the CV joint will go bad sooner then later. The dirt, etc gets in and the grease is thrown out. Don't bother replacing the boot, replace the axle.

It is tough to diagnose wheel bearings and often a good bearing is replaced. Typically the Camry bearings will make a roar that gets louder the faster you go. Sometimes a grinding noise if bad enough.

These are double roll ball bearings, thus not sure about clicking. But a bearing or CV joint the noise will get louder with time and let you know it time to change it.

Changing the front bearing is not a hard job, more time consuming. Do find a auto parts or mechanic shop first that is setup to replace the bearing.

Read up on past TN posts about taking the Camry (or Avalon) suspension apart! Replacing the bearing and passenger axle has come up a LOT along with the problems folks run into when doing it.
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Old 07-20-2008, 01:32 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Yeah, replacing the drivers side axle wasn't the most fun job we've ever done...you really had to pry to get that thing out of there.

But I just jacked it up and spun the tire...it doesn't catch in the slightest, but spins freely. I also checked the back tire, which spins, catches, spins, catches, etc. However, I'm guessing that's normal and has something do with the drum brakes? As both back wheels do this.

So does that rule out wheel bearing?

Thanks.

EDIT: And to specify...this isn't a roar or anything loud enough that I can hear past 25mph or so. It honestly just sounds like there's a rock in the tire, if you've ever heard that noise. However, when I spun the tires I double and triple checked and there aren't any rocks that would make that noise. But no, it's not anywhere near a roar or a grind. Also, the CV boot is not gone, just...well it's broken all the way around, so yeah stuff could definitely get in there.
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Old 07-20-2008, 02:31 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Wheel bearings can be difficult to diagnose and are often changed when still good.

Have had bearing that really made hammering noise as if the wheel would fall off, the bearing was still tight and made no noise when rotated off the ground. The fault was a very small nick in the bearing race, every time a ball came around and hit that nick it made the noise.

Yes, if a bearing roar it would disappear into all the other road noise as the cars speed increased

I would do this. Check each wheel for lateral movement (bearing play) with tire on. Compare to the other side, if the same then look for another cause of noise.

Swap the left and right side tires, or rotate in the spare and check the noise. No doubt you have removed the hubcap to check for rocks.

Check the front brake splash plate to see if it is hitting the rotor. The brake pads can move around a little in the caliper, or some other part may be hitting the rotor. Check the rotor for cracks. The rear brake shoe metal backing can hit the drum on the side of the drum (as can other brake parts).

All of these issues have caused a clicking sound when the tire rotated.

A torn boot if not replaced quickly enough is a good indication the CV joint is going to fail because of the dirt and grease issues. The typically sound of a failing joint is a popping noise.

The passenger’s side does NOT have the axle spring clip that plugs into the diff carrier. It has a center-bearing carrier, this bearing is held in with a bolt and large cir-clip. This system holds the axle into the diff. The bearing can freeze from rust in the housing and require a lot of banging to get out. But the bearing could just slide out making an easy axle change.

Try to narrow down the noise as being front or back

Given the torn boot would be looking at the joint if nothing else was found during inspection.
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