3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
Just have a question for you in regards to removing the oil pan. I think its possibly leaking oil there so I am wanting to reapply the silicone or gasket for the oil pan.
My question is, should I put a gasket on the oil pan? As far as I am aware, the oil pan does not normally have a gasket and just uses silicone to seal it to the engine.
Also, when removing the oil pan, do I need to undo the exhaust from the flange, or will I be able to get to the oil pan bolts by just unbolting the exhaust where it is mounted to the gearbox / engine and push the exhaust to the side?
With removing the exhaust, do you mean just unbolt it from the gearbox / engine mount and move it aside, or undo the bolts at the flexible pipe / exhaust manifold section?
I have done it twice on an i4, never had to remove exhaust. You do however have to remove the bracket (3 bolts) on the front of the engine and to the right (looking at the front of the engine) of the downpipe, one bolt goes into block, 2 bolts go into tranny. Remove all the oil pan bolts except for the corners. Then remove two corners on the same side slowly, then slowly remove the other to so that oil does not spill out all of a sudden. I replaced with a cork gasket the first time only to have it leak, then the second time I used a new cork gasket and rtv silicone, hasn't leaked yet. Never have to remove the exhaust. Should take less than two hours to do. Make sure you get all the old silicone and gasket off the pan and clean the oil pan out good. Also make sure there are no metal shavings and check to see how much sludge you have in there. Good luck and have fun, its not that bad.
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1990 Yota truck - 2wd 4spd, 22r. Lowered 5", 17" Ford Escape rims, flat green paint.
1992 Camry - Going back to stock. GONE View my parts for sale - http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...47#post2908847
I have done it twice on an i4, never had to remove exhaust. You do however have to remove the bracket (3 bolts) on the front of the engine and to the right (looking at the front of the engine) of the downpipe, one bolt goes into block, 2 bolts go into tranny. Remove all the oil pan bolts except for the corners. Then remove two corners on the same side slowly, then slowly remove the other to so that oil does not spill out all of a sudden. I replaced with a cork gasket the first time only to have it leak, then the second time I used a new cork gasket and rtv silicone, hasn't leaked yet. Never have to remove the exhaust. Should take less than two hours to do. Make sure you get all the old silicone and gasket off the pan and clean the oil pan out good. Also make sure there are no metal shavings and check to see how much sludge you have in there. Good luck and have fun, its not that bad.
Sweet! Im doing this right now and was about to try to remove the exhaust. Ill DEFINITELY do it without removing it now!
Did you put RTV on both sides of the cork gasket or just one?
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1993 Camry LE I4 Bone Stock - 380,000 miles (as of Aug '11)
1993 Camry XLE V6 Bone Stock - 260,xxx miles (as of July '11) Blown Head Gasket
2003 Chevy Trailblazer EXT I6 - 107,000 miles (as of Aug '11)
The Toyota recommended procedure involves using their gasket sealant (FPG, I think its called). It's not cheap for a tube, but it seems to be of better quality than the RTV sealant you'd buy at a parts store. If you use this stuff and clean the mating surfaces well, you shouldn't need a cork gasket. What I did on my 4 cylinder was remove the exhaust pipe, removed the pan, cleaned the surfaces, put the recommended amount of toyo sealant on the pan, put in place, torqued down the bolts, and let sit at least 8-10 hours before I tried putting oil in, just to make sure the sealant set up. I did that with both my 4 and 6 cylinder camry's and never had any problems.
__________________ Current Ride(s): 08 Pontiac G8, 02 Mitsubishi Lancer, 94 GMC Sierra
Former Ride(s): 93 Camry SE V6 5-Speed , 95 Camry DX 4-cyl
Well, I cant seem to get the exhaust pipe off OR the bracket that is blocking some of the oil pans bolts! I dont know what to do. I HAVE to get this pan gasket replaced!
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1993 Camry LE I4 Bone Stock - 380,000 miles (as of Aug '11)
1993 Camry XLE V6 Bone Stock - 260,xxx miles (as of July '11) Blown Head Gasket
2003 Chevy Trailblazer EXT I6 - 107,000 miles (as of Aug '11)
What I want to know is how in the world you guys got the stiffiner plate off without removing the exhaust pipe first!?!? I cant even get to all the bolts! I have managed to get one out (the middle one) but only to find that it is stripped!
Anyone that can help who doesnt remove the exhaust pipe? Im about to try to remove the exhaust manifold and leave the exhaust pipe attached to it because I cant get those 3 bolts loose to save my life! I just dont know how much clearance its going to give me to get these stiffner plate bolts off.
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1993 Camry LE I4 Bone Stock - 380,000 miles (as of Aug '11)
1993 Camry XLE V6 Bone Stock - 260,xxx miles (as of July '11) Blown Head Gasket
2003 Chevy Trailblazer EXT I6 - 107,000 miles (as of Aug '11)
Ok....I took the exhaust manifold off and was able to get the stiffner bracket bolts off. Got all the oil pan bolts off, but cant get the dang oil pan off. That RTV they used is quite strong (where it isnt leaking). Anyone know how to get it off without messing anything up?
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1993 Camry LE I4 Bone Stock - 380,000 miles (as of Aug '11)
1993 Camry XLE V6 Bone Stock - 260,xxx miles (as of July '11) Blown Head Gasket
2003 Chevy Trailblazer EXT I6 - 107,000 miles (as of Aug '11)
i've done camry v6 and i4 engine oil pan without removal of exhaust flex pipe, the V6 has more room, and the i4 is very tight on the exhaust, i did have to remove the stiffner bracket as other people described, i think there is a foam between the engine oil pan and transmission, pry that out as well.and maneuver the oil pan a little to get it out of the car.
use a flat head screw driver to pry the oil pan apart from block, but careful not to destroy the block.
Last edited by bronzemaxell; 07-26-2008 at 06:05 PM.
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