94 Camry / will crank but not yank - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

RadTheImpaler · 07-22-2008, 08:49 AM

I am having some issues with a 94 Camry. Can someone suggest a way to determine if fuel is getting to the rail. I am concerned about the coil since a simple spark check showed yellow spark. I will test the coil and go from there. The symptom with this car is that the motor was pressure washed and then the problems appeared. Removed cap and look for signs of moisture but found none. Sprayed anyway but no luck. Anyone have an electronic copy of the repair manual that I could download or at least the trouble shooting section. Thanks in advance.

renmike · 07-22-2008, 09:22 AM

If no one has the link to the Toyota Service manual, go to autozone.com and they have a copy of the Haynes manual there for free.

RadTheImpaler · 07-22-2008, 10:10 AM

Thanks RenMike. Also this is a 4 cylinder and I checked all of the fuses and connectors. I tried spraying starter fluid but no luck.

I am concerned that I do not smell any gas even after several attempts to crank. Is this normal?

I hear the fuel pump whirling around.

RadTheImpaler · 07-22-2008, 12:01 PM

OK. Got the manual now. Dont all of you Toyo big guns key up at once now (might overload the server).

Any tips on isolating this to either a fuel or electrical or both type of problem?

Kep · 07-22-2008, 12:16 PM

5SFE engine-quick & dirty fuel pressure check. If this is inconclusive you will need to gauge it after the fuel filter.

-Jump contacts +B and FP of the data link connector 1.
-Turn ignition switch to ON (don't start the engine)
-Pinch the fuel hose coming from the fuel filter to the fuel rail with your fingers. You should be able to feel the pressure with your fingers (you may want to have someone turn the key from off to on a few times to feel the difference)
-If you don't feel the pressure go back to the fuel fill, take off the gas cap and listen (don't smoke while doing this

). You should be able to hear the fuel pump operating.

If no pressure:
-Fuseible link at battery
-AM2 fuse
-EFI fuse
-IGN fuse
-EFI main relay
-Fuel pump
-Wiring faults

From the manual.

Kep

Venom_5 · 07-22-2008, 12:39 PM

i just wanted to say that i lol'd when i read the title @ work

RadTheImpaler · 07-22-2008, 04:12 PM

Kep. Thanks for the excellent post.

-Jump contacts +B and FP of the data link connector 1.

What/where is the data link connector 1?

RadTheImpaler · 07-22-2008, 07:31 PM

From the troubleshooting section of the repairmanual I found the following when testing the:

7. Inspect signal generator (pickup coil) resistance
measure resistance between terminals

Pickup coil resistance (cold)
G1 and G2 125 - 200 ohms (found 21 ohms and rising slowing by tenths)
G2 and G 160- 235n oms ( found 240 ohms )
NE and G 190 - 290 ohms (found 21 ohms and rising slowly by tenths)

The manual states that "if the resistance is not as specified, replace the distributor housing assembly"

the local AutoZone didn't carry this part and I suspect this is going to be expensive. Anybody have any comments? Does the distributor housing assembly include the ignition coil? Can anyone give any tips on testing the coil?

As always thanks for the help.

Kep · 07-22-2008, 10:10 PM

If you need to replace the distributor body it will probably run from $150 for an after market brand or over $300 for a Toyota OEM. You can buy them complete or bare bones (no cap & wires and or no coil). I'm sorry to ask but if you didn't know where the data link was how certain are you of your resistance checks?

By the way, the "pick-up coils" are not the same as the "coil".

Data Link 1 is the diagnostic port located in the back passenger side of the engine compartment. It is a plastic box looking thing whose top says "Diagnosis" (at least mine does) on its top. It is mounted on, and inboard of, the strut tower.

Kep

RadTheImpaler · 07-22-2008, 11:38 PM

Kep I like your style.

The car isn't mine but I would like very much to help out this friend in need. You write "I'm sorry to ask but if you didn't know where the data link was how certain are you of your resistance checks"?

While I am no authority on Toyotas I do know my way around a Fluke meter. Another fine gentleman from this forum hooked me up with a copy of the repair manual and I simply recorded the resistance across the listed contacts. I am confident of the accuracy of my resistance readings, however I have no idea what they imply. What I was hoping might happen is that one of you would loan me the benefit of your experience. I have owned 3 Toyotas but they were/are so well behaved I have not had the pleasure of learning much about them.

Back to the issue at hand. The problem may have been brought on by an ill timed engine pressure wash. There is no visual evidence of water getting into anything though the car ran just fine prior to the engine wash.

I propped the laptop up in the engine compartment and started at the beginning of the Ignition System part of the manual. IG-6 describes the process for checking the distributor housing assembly. Based on the results I stopped there. I posted the results of my test.

If anyone out there has crossed this bridge please let me know how you made out. Did you simply follow the advise in the book and replace the distributor housing assembly and live happily ever after or is there something else that I need be concerned about?

You guys rock!

Kep · 07-23-2008, 02:33 PM

OK, I'm going to be dumb here. What problem(s) are you having with the car?

You mentioned a pressure wash. Have you checked inside each spark plug tube for standing water? Have the electrical components had time to dry out?

A while back DoctorJ did a pretty good "No Start" check list. Read the next to the last post on: <http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=243924&highlight=coil+pickup&page =2>

Kep

RadTheImpaler · 07-23-2008, 09:31 PM

The engine turns over (cranks) but doesnt start. No signs of standing water in the spark plug tubes or anywhere else. It has been a week since the pressure wash.

Thanks for the Doctor J no-start checklist.

My question is specific to testing the distributor. Since the resistance readings were way low does this indicate that the distributor housing assembly needs to be replaced or is there a cheaper way to repair this problem

Kep · 07-23-2008, 11:13 PM

I can't say. I had a similar one in my 1990 and replaced it (I had already replaced the coil and wires so I just got the body). It didn't help. Turned out to be my ignition switch. But there is no way I can make a comparison to your situation.

One other question. When you turn the key on all the dash lights light up during the POST. Does the Check Engine Light come on? If not there are other checks to make first.

Kep

RadTheImpaler · 07-24-2008, 09:14 PM

And finally a happy ending. Replaced the distributor (distributor housing assembly) and the car fired up and runs like a champ. Thanks everyone for all of the help. See you next time.

mouayingvang24 · 12-03-2010, 09:16 AM

Just to remind every one that the camry does come in California emission as well as federal emission(regular emission)

If the ICP(ignition coil pack) is inside the distributer its a Federal car and also the distributer itself is adjustable.

If the ICP is located next to your driver side strut wall its a California emission car. Which is safer for your car b/c ICP does catch up in flame sometime if you have a ICP defect or not enough grounds.

Im also going though the same problem except im not too sure if it relates to your problem???...