3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
I need to replace my rear disc on my GEN 3. I had no problems changing the brake pad last time, just wondering what would it involved to replace the rotor as well???
Derrick
Last edited by 94_v6_camry; 07-25-2008 at 02:38 AM.
instead of removing the break caliper , you remove the thing the caliper itself is connected to. Then lift that off; it will take the caliper off with it. It botled down with 2 botls, so its a pretty easy thing to do.
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1995 Camry V6 LE - Sold
1998 Camry LE
1992 SC300 5SPD
1992 SC400
It's best to take the caliper off first and then the brake pads (you've done this before) and then the caliper mounting bracket. The caliper mounting bracket comes off by removing 2 17MM hex head bolts. Then the rotor comes off. If it is hard to get them off there are are 2 threaded holes near the center of the rotor. Thread 2 corresponding bolts in to those holes and tighten them down evenly. This will pop off the rotor. It actually breaks it free from the rust on the hub. You need to remove the caliper seperately since you will have to bottom out the piston back in to the caliper to make room for the new, now thicker rotor. You should also sand the pads lightly with sand paper before putting them back in to their same spots. This will give them a new surface to faciliate them seating properly to the new rotor surfaces. Also, clean the rotors off first with brake clean. New rotors have some type of antirust coating on them which needs to be removed before installing them or this coating will be transferred to the pads, possibly ruining them. Reassembly is just the reverse procedure.
Mike
Last edited by Mike Gerber; 07-26-2008 at 08:33 PM.
No, but it wouldn't hurt. Depending on the pad wear and rotor wear you should be careful when pushing the cylinder piston back that you don't cause fluid to leak from the master. Pulling some out with a turkey baster will allow room for back flushed fluid.
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1995 Camry Wagon LE. 2.2 4cyl, 5S-FE, Auto, 187K
Hi, just wondering what do you mean by M8X1.25 ???
If i go to the hardware store and tell them that would they understand what i mean ???
Below is a pix of a new brake pad... http://img112.imageshack.us/my.php?i...2008294tm2.jpg
Q's....do i still need to put the inner squeal shim, anti squeal shim from the old parts into the new brake pads???
Derrick
Last edited by 94_v6_camry; 07-29-2008 at 11:38 PM.
there is a small tool that you turn (light you tight the nut) and inside it has a flat blade.. when u use it, u take an old pads and put smooth surface against the part u push caliper in...then you take that tool u buy from advance zone and start to turn until the bolt touch center the pad...doing slowly until it goes in so u can put back when u're done changing out rotors...
that tool just 8-10 bucks and it helps your job easy and fasfter...
Hi, just wondering what do you mean by M8X1.25 ???
If i go to the hardware store and tell them that would they understand what i mean ???
Below is a pix of a new brake pad... http://img112.imageshack.us/my.php?i...2008294tm2.jpg
Q's....do i still need to put the inner squeal shim, anti squeal shim from the old parts into the new brake pads???
Derrick
M8 is the screw diameter in millimeters. 1.25 is the thread pitch. Yes the hardware store will know what you are talking about, when you say M8 X 1.25 thread pitch, but you also need to tell them you need screws that are at least 1-1/2 to 2 inches in length and it's best that they are fully threaded. I actually prefer to use socket cap screws for this application since they are made of a very hard alloy steel that will rarely strip. If you choose to use socket cap screws, remember, you will need the proper size allen wrech to turn them. My next choice would be hex head cap screws.
The pads you have already have an anti-squeal shim on them. NO other shims are needed. If you want to put anything on them go to the auto parts store and ask them for some anti-squeal paste. They usually have little packets of it for $1. You just apply that to the backs of the pads before installing them. Remember to keep the old OEM shims from the Toyota pads, just in case you ever go back to Toyota OEM pads.
M8 is the screw diameter in millimeters. 1.25 is the thread pitch. Yes the hardware store will know what you are talking about, when you say M8 X 1.25 thread pitch, but you also need to tell them you need screws that are at least 1-1/2 to 2 inches in length and it's best that they are fully threaded. I actually prefer to use socket cap screws for this application since they are made of a very hard alloy steel that will rarely strip. If you choose to use socket cap screws, remember, you will need the proper size allen wrech to turn them. My next choice would be hex head cap screws.
The pads you have already have an anti-squeal shim on them. NO other shims are needed. If you want to put anything on them go to the auto parts store and ask them for some anti-squeal paste. They usually have little packets of it for $1. You just apply that to the backs of the pads before installing them. Remember to keep the old OEM shims from the Toyota pads, just in case you ever go back to Toyota OEM pads.
Mike
I did one side....but on the another side the rotor are so hard to come off....not sure what else i can do ???
What is the best method to take off the rotor beside using the M8 X 1.25 method ???
Would releasing the parking park make it easier for it to come off ??? Not to sure whether i should release the parking park as the Haynes Repair book stated "If the rear brake disc is being worked on, release the parking park ???
Derrick
Last edited by 94_v6_camry; 08-02-2008 at 03:24 AM.
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