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3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 07-29-2008, 09:07 AM   #1 (permalink)
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ABS brake problem - Where can I find the plugs to meas. resitance of speed sensors ??

Hi I took my camry to the shop a while ago because the srs and abs lights were on, after an hour of diagnosing it turns out the airbags were but there was a flaw in the wiring by the previous owner. as for the ABS brakes the info I received from the mechanic is that the is an open circuit by one of the front wheels (I dont remember which one by now). at the time I wasnt interested in paying to have it looked into further. Can I figure this one out my self ? or do I have to bring it back to the mechanic. anybody have any clues what the problem might be ?

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Last edited by msm15; 08-05-2008 at 01:53 PM. Reason: ..
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Old 07-29-2008, 10:00 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Sounds to me like your mechanic probably found a bad wheel speed sensor. Is the ABS light on your instrument panel still lit up? If it is you can re-fetch the error code to find out which side has the bad sensor. Here's a website that gives instructions on how to retrieve the codes for Gen 3's (1992-96):

http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us...rInfoPages.htm
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1992 Camry LE, V6 (3VZ-FE), ABS brakes, 330k miles, dark emerald pearl, owned since new.
1996 Avalon XLS, ABS brakes, moonroof, white, acquired w/ 139k miles, now at 261k.
2001 Yamaha FZ1, Ivan's jet kit, resprung all around, Ohlins in the rear, Race Tech cartridge emulators in the forks, 45k miles.
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Old 07-29-2008, 12:50 PM   #3 (permalink)
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yup the abs light is still on, how much do speed sensors run, and after I change it if that is the issue do I have to take it back to the mechanic to reset the system or will the light go off after its fixed ?

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Old 07-29-2008, 01:08 PM   #4 (permalink)
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wow thats a great info site, thanks a lot
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Old 07-29-2008, 05:01 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Sensor are not cheap at around $120. For part numbers and prices check the various internet sites that allow to run down the part based on year/make/model/etc. Call a few local parts outlets for prices.

You can test them with an ohm meter to make sure it is defective. Make sure you narrow down which side as left and right side not interchangeable. Also check the wiring to the sensor for breaks. If the problem is fixed the light should go off.
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Old 07-29-2008, 05:16 PM   #6 (permalink)
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thanks for the info, is it dumb to buy a used one from a junk yard if I know it works ?
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Old 07-29-2008, 05:44 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Not dumb. Bring an ohmmeter. For a good sensor: resistance between the two wires of the sensor should be 0.6K –1.8K ohm. Resistance between each wire and the sensor body should be 1M ohm or higher.

Make sure you know it is a sensor before changing as there are a lot of codes and more then one deals with open circuits indications.

Might be able to swap left and right if you change some of the hardware attached to the wiring cable. The two are the same sensor with different mounting hardware.

The rears sensors are not the same, don’t swap front and back.
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Old 07-31-2008, 02:21 PM   #8 (permalink)
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is there anyway for me to get the error code out of the computer by myself, the mechanics wants 85-90 bucks just to read the error code ?????
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Old 07-31-2008, 03:32 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Yes. What year car.
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Old 07-31-2008, 04:43 PM   #10 (permalink)
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a 1995
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Old 07-31-2008, 05:15 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Find the small plastic box in the engine compartment labeled diagnostic, may be on the passengers or drivers side strut tower.

Disconnect the short pin inside the box (a jumper pin between terminals).

Jump terminals Tc and E1 (terminal code is under the box lid) with a piece of electrical wire.

Turn ign switch on.

The ABS light will flash out a 2 numeral code, 1 numeral at a time. If more then one code, they output one after another. The code(s) will repeat. If no code(s) are stored the light will flash every ¼ of a second.

When done turn off ign , disconnect jumper and put the pin back in.

After you output the code(s) post back and/or send private message with the code(s) and can look it up.
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Old 07-31-2008, 05:21 PM   #12 (permalink)
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here is what i learn,

abs sensor from junkyard, if they are still in the wheel hub, good luck taking it out, because the rubber most likely fused into the hole through the years, better luck taking the ABS sensor, along with the wheel hub intact, , and replace the whole thing, if the sensor is out of the vehicle and in good working condition, then good buy.

check here for how to get the ABS codes yourself,

http://www.stephenmason.com/cars/mr2abscode.html

http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/brake10.pdf
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Old 07-31-2008, 06:46 PM   #13 (permalink)
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hehe thats pretty cool I read up on that wasnt sure how easy it would be thats why i didnt do it yet. from my understanding the abs light is going to blink at a certain rate and I have to follow that rate in order to determine the code is that correct cause that sounds pretty difficult to me is that correct
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Old 07-31-2008, 07:36 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msm15 View Post
hehe thats pretty cool I read up on that wasnt sure how easy it would be thats why i didnt do it yet. from my understanding the abs light is going to blink at a certain rate and I have to follow that rate in order to determine the code is that correct cause that sounds pretty difficult to me is that correct

actually if you keep an eye closely on the blink ABS light, there is a pattern of blink, initially when i did it, i was a little confused and excited, but after staring at the blink ABS for a few minutes, i was able to count flashes and figure out the codes, and able to tell beging of the codes, end of codes, and the pattern repeats infinitely, very cool.
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Old 07-31-2008, 07:40 PM   #15 (permalink)
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kool thanks for all the info cant wait to try it out
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