Several questions- where to start

[gorckat]

After helping my uncle change my font brake pads, rotors and calipers a few weeks back (and save ~$700 from Firestone's pocket!), I've finally started learning how to do a variety of stuff that I should have learned ages ago. Reading through the DIY stuff, I realize there's a lot I have the ability to do and probably should do- my '93 (5SFE) has ~235k miles on it. Since I've had it (2 years, one owner before me), the only major work needed (knock on wood) has been a radiator swap and the brake job.

I'm pretty sure the timing and accessory belts need swapping. It idles a little rough, sometimes faster than it should, and if I left the A/C switch on, the belts squeal a good bit when I start the car. If I then leave the A/C on, sometimes it fades in a few seconds, sometimes it doesn't. It always stops squealing if I turn of the A/C. Sometimes it squeals a little with the A/C off at start, too.

Also when starting the car, if I turn the wheel full left or right, there's a bit of squeal (I've never noticed if it does this warmed up- I don't usually make turns that hard unless I'm pulling out of a parking spot :P).

Questions:

With the squealing in general, is it possible I'd need to swap the pulleys?

With the steering squeal alone, is a fluid flush possible to cure that?

After the squealing dies down, sometimes the A/C doesn't kick out cold air (whether or not I turned it off before starting the car, turned it off to stop the squealing or just it let it cry for a minute). Is that solely a belt issue, or more likely the compressor or something?

Should I do plugs and wires before the belts to see if that improves the idling?

I'm guessing I also need a transmission fluid flush- how hard a job is that? I've seen several references cite a filter change as easy and a flush as requiring a bit more experience.

How hard is it to swap the right front fender/quarter panel? Mine has had a crack above the wheel since I got it, and since it's silver, I'm guessing the pick-n-pulls around here should have some available (since it seems every Camry back in the day was silver :P)

[toyomoho]

Congrates on going the DIY route. Suggest picking up a low cost Haynes shop manual on this car.

Both noises are normal for a loose belt and perhaps glazed belt and pulley. When you change the belts check the pulleys, if it glazed use sand paper to remove it.

The PS issue is again the result of a loose belt or glazed belt and pulley. If the PS fluid is dark you can change it completely over time by removing the old fluid using something like a turkey baster and refilling with new. Change the fluid a number of times between driving until it is clean again. Use Dexron III or whatever is its new replacement.

The trans can also be drained and refilled 3-4 times between drives or until it is clean again. The trans pan holds about 1/3 of the total amount in the trans, the rest is in the torque converter.

Check past TN post for info on other ways of changing the fluid such as disconnecting the fluid return line from the cooler, etc.

Fix the belt issues before getting into the AC issues.

The AutoZone website at www.autozone.com has a good self help repair sectiion that can help with this cars fender and belt replacement.

[frenum49]

There is also chance that your tensioner pulley has become weak or has a broken spring mech. I would say that your compressor could be locking up but if you are getting the squeal at wheel lock it is just a belt or belt tension problem. As far as your engine idling roughly, change out your plugs, wires, cap and rotor. It probably needs every one of these anyway. Otherwise there are ways to find which component is causing the miss. I would just do the whole tune up. You mentioned that your engine idles high sometimes. This could caused by a vacuum leak. Listen for hissing while your idling. I spray starter fluid at the base of the injectors and around vacuum lines and watch for the engine to stumble. Also pull the vacuum line from your fuel pressure reg and make sure there is no fuel bleeding past the diaphragm into the line. If so, replace the reg. I could go on and on but unfortunately I don't like people much.

[gorckat]

Thanks! I'll be getting the manual this weekend and pricing more parts.

[gorckat]

Looking at parts at the Autozone website, I see some big differences in price between Beck Arnley and other stuff ($16 jump for a PCV valve!)

Are the BA parts that much better, or are things like Duralast just fine?

[Kep]

You tend to get what you pay for. For easily replaced parts you can go the route of the cheapest life time guarantee and just replace them often (keep receipts). For hard to service parts it is hard to beat Toyota quality. I would go OEM on timing belt, water pump, seals, etc. Toyota spark plug wires will last a lot longer and are probably "better". There are reasons back and forth to do each.

PCV valve is usually cleanable. Try that first and then buy one. Use carb cleaner.

Cleaning the throttle body, EGR system, IAC valve and PCV valve might give you surprising results. It's a good Saturday project. Do a search on "Sea Foam" and "Seafoam". Good stuff and can help clean three different areas.

Camrys are great little cars and fairly easy to work on. Do your homework, get some manuals (yes, plural), and get a torque wrench. Avoid using analog multi-meters on delicate electronics. A digital multi-meter is the way to go.

Enjoy,
Kep