Need some advice

[vdop69]

Well I need some help from my fellow TNers.

My check engine light came on today again and the codes are:

p0171 (system lean bank 1)
p0171 (system lean bank 1) pending
p1130 (air/fuel performance/range) pending

I have changed the air/fuel sensor and still get these codes.
Which makes me believe that the 1130 code is popping up due to the lean code. Any thoughts? The car is still on the original fuel filter, so that is one thing I am going to put on my solution list. Also, I have had the exhaust visually inspected for leaks and was reported there was none, same with vacuum leaks.

Here is the freeze frame that was saved for the p0171 code as my obd2 scanner only saves freeze frame for the first code that pops up. Nothing seems out of the ordinary to me except the fuel trims look a bit troublesome right?

Freeze Frame p0171

Fuel Sys1 N/A
Fuel Sys2 N/A
Calc Load% 49.8
Coolant Temp 198F
ST FTRM1(%) 23.4
LT FTRM1(%) 18.7
MAP (in. hg) 14.7
Engine(rpm) 2274
Veh speed(mph) 61
IAT 104F

As far as drivability problems, there are none, expect for some surging/hesitation/vibration while decelerating which is most noticeable on the highway. Also some power loss. Car is a 2000 4cyl LE Camry auto. Tune ups have been done at correct miles (sparkplugs, wires, fluids drained and filled, timing belt, water pump, even changed the air/fuel sensor(oem) and aftercat o2 sensor. Any help is appreciated, I will update on how the car runs after the fuel filter is changed.

[toyomoho]

The 1130 code is related to the O2 sensor or circuit. The one that usually goes bad is the first one, Bank 1, Sensor 1.

Can you read out the voltages from the O2 sensors using the scan tool?

Typically the can type fuel filter never needs changing unless there is a problem with acceleration, power, etc.

[vdop69]

just went outside, there is only one o2 sensor voltage on the scan tool under the live data.

I am not sure if it is for the bank 1 sensor 1 but it says o2s12

neway, on warmup it was around .005 to .025, afterwhich kept going up to .1xx, .2xx, and up to .3xx, and then after a while went down to .010 and even 0.000 volts

This was all done while the car was in park.

so what ya think? replace the sensor or buy a better scan tool?

[vdop69]

well I went ahead and bought another oem air/fuel sensor. only $130. Great deal compared to the $200+ the dealership charges =/

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...264810965&rd=1

[ckyalliance222]

had this kind of problem with my moms ford windstar, i had left band lean and man system lean and then other codes would randomly pop up, recheck all of you vacuum hoses and fittings because these are usually what causes leans, as for me it was a very loose hose on the pvc valve, so i recommend getting a new pvc valve (probably like $5 tops at autozone) replace that wiggle all you vacuum hoses to make sure they are all on snug

[new echo owner]

You may have two different problems; 1) Sounds like you may have injectors that are running a little on the lean side causing the P0171 code; it will also cause slight roughness in the way your engine run. Your description of the drivability problem also indicate you may have injector issues. Fuel trim too high because the ECM is trying to compensate for the lean condition of the fuel system. You can either take the injectors out and have them clean or put new ones on the car, depending on the mileage of your car.

2) For the P1130, you would have better luck buying a Toyota a/f sensor, aftermarket oem a/f sensor doesn't always work the best; factory part might cause a little more but less headache for sure. A/F sensor voltage usually fuctuates between 3.25 volt at idle; the readings you had are probably for the aftercat O2 sensor, which does nothing for the fuel system, it is only there to let you know if the cat is working. You can practiclely take it out and it won't affect the way the car runs, of course, it will turn on the check engine light if you do. You will probably need to get a scan tool that actually give you the a/f sensor reading to know where you are at with your engine.

Good Luck,

N.E.O.

[vdop69]

Thanks for all the replies.

I installed a factory oem a/f sensor earlier this week and the CEL was off for 200 miles. However, after driving to campus today, the light came back on and showed a p1130 and p1130 pending code.

If I could get my hands on a Cali gen4 manifold, I would just return my car to stock. I have received nothing but codes after installing these headers.

Originally Posted by ckyalliance222

had this kind of problem with my moms ford windstar, i had left band lean and man system lean and then other codes would randomly pop up, recheck all of you vacuum hoses and fittings because these are usually what causes leans, as for me it was a very loose hose on the pvc valve, so i recommend getting a new pvc valve (probably like $5 tops at autozone) replace that wiggle all you vacuum hoses to make sure they are all on snug

I replaced my pvc valve about a year ago. I guess Ill check the hoses again, wont hurt. Where is a good place to buy hose connectors? dunno if the zip ties are doing it nemore.

[new echo owner]

Didn't realise that you have an aftermarket manifold on the car, intake or exhaust? When you said factory oem, is the part make by Denso? If you can get hold of a scan tool that will give you A/F sensor reading, that would definately help.

N.E.O.

[vdop69]

sorry, didnt understand what you meant till now lol. the aftermarket exhaust manifold is made by rippmods. I tried calling them but they are gone for the summer.

I will try to get my hands on another scan tool.

Thanks.

[vdop69]

Alright. Went to a shop yesterday and got some readings for the bank 1 sensor 1 air/fuel sensor. With the key turned to on, the voltage read 3.299v. After starting it, it ranges from 2.9v to 3.4v. I will be getting the fuel filter changed next week along with vacuum leak checks, and fuel pressure. nething else I should ask for while im at the shop?

[new echo owner]

A/F sensor reading at a steady 2500 rpm, long and short term fuel trim and MAP readings too.

N.E.O.

[ckyalliance222]

for the hose ties, i just used some metal hose clamps, the kind where its a circle and you tighten the screw on the side to make it tighter, its been on there like that for about 5000 miles and the problems hasn't come back, the clamps are like 50 cents at home depot

[vdop69]

Originally Posted by new echo owner

A/F sensor reading at a steady 2500 rpm, long and short term fuel trim and MAP readings too.

N.E.O.

Alright, I dont have the scan tool to see what the A/F sensor readings are, but here are the rest.

@ 2500rpm

STFT = -1.5
LTFT = -0.7
MAP = 7.1,7.4,7.7

[new echo owner]

The fuel trim readings are right where they should be. What is the unit for the MAP, inHg? The A/F sensor reading would definitely help!

N.E.O.

[vdop69]

Originally Posted by new echo owner

The fuel trim readings are right where they should be. What is the unit for the MAP, inHg? The A/F sensor reading would definitely help!

N.E.O.

Yea, the MAP is in units of inHg

Ill try to get my hands on that scan tool again for the A/F readings. Thanks for the replies. Oh, and the A/F sensor is a Toyota OEM sensor.