Starter set of tools, intermittent grinding from right side

[uuuuu]

Hey guys,

I've just started looking under the hood and replacing/cleaning various external parts on my '93 4cyl auto. What do you recommend as far as a starter set of tools (a range of sockets/wrenches, a select few, etc.)? Do higher end wrenches really make a difference? Where can I get a nice torque wrench that doesn't cost too much? And is there a nice way to get those "Christmas tree" clips off? I know a lot of questions, but I've been following this forum and you all are great!

Also, this grinding sound on the right side (sounded like a piece of metal scraping on the ground) comes and goes, I haven't heard it in a few weeks. It gets worse with speed, up to about 40mph where it disappears. Braking doesn't really affect it (besides the change in speed) and I haven't been able to swerve back and forth hard enough to see if it becomes more intense with more force. Thanks

[tran.man48]

I'm sure someone here will chime in about the tools, but as for your grinding sound, you most likely have a broken wheel bearing or your brake caliper is seized... see if you can isolate if the sound is coming from the front or the rear of the car.

[Albuynp Ryeno]

A socket wrench is the most important tool, you can have.. Metrix size sockets are very useful. 10mm is the most often used, 12, 14 are used quite often as well. Socket extensions are a must. Also a pipe you can put the wrench is, is useful (cheater bar) The biggest vise grip is really useful as well. I use it mostly for clamping onto the clamps, that you need to squeze to release. A screw driver with some removable bits is good as well.

And yes tool quality does mater. If you super cheep shit, it will braak or snap. My cheepo socket wrench broke. Now i am using a home depot husky brand socket wrench. Its been good so far, plus its pretty cheep. Craftsman at Sears makes the best sockets. They r made so, u can fit a bolt in a bunch of different ways and it will fit. Unlike the cheep sockets, where you have to move the socket around to get it to fit.

IDK where to find a cheep torque wrench. I am gonna buy a 70 bucks craftsman one soon.

Oh way while sockets are useful, sometimes you need just a normal wrench. Again 10mm,12mm and 14mm are really useful.

[uuuuu]

Originally Posted by tran.man48

I'm sure someone here will chime in about the tools, but as for your grinding sound, you most likely have a broken wheel bearing or your brake caliper is seized... see if you can isolate if the sound is coming from the front or the rear of the car.

I thought about a wheel bearing, but wouldn't that be a constant grind that gets louder with speed all the way up to 70+ mph? That's what is strange about this, it doesn't happen most of the time and when it does happen it stops over 40 mph.

The next time it happens I'll see if I can isolate it. Thanks

[Silent Shadow]

i got a decent torque wrench from walmart for 40 bucks. great tool to have...

[frenum49]

I agree with Albuynp. I have been an auto tech for many years now and metric is the way to buy if you just need a starter set. However, The sizes I find myself using most on all makes are 10mm, 13mm, 15mm and 18mm. I would buy a set from 5mm to 13mm in 1/4" drive and 8mm to 20mm in 3/8". If you are just wrenching casually you can get away with cheaper brands like Stanley from Wal-mart. They have a metric wrench set that is nice and long but the open ends are a bit soft. They also make a 3/8" drive ratchet that pivots at the wrist and can be lengthened at the handle for more torque. I actually own this ratchet and use it quite often. It can handle a surprising amount of abuse and have had no problems so far after 6 months of daily use. This cost me just $25 at Walmart and came with a small set of cheap english sockets. As far as the torque wrench goes, for starting out I would go with Craftsman ratcheting torque wrench because getting a replacement upon breaking is hassle free. There are fork tools designed to remove x-mas trees available anywhere for cheap. I would eventually break down and buy a set of line wrenches as well.

[JustinC25]

As far as tools 8 10 12 14 17 19 21 24 27 30 & 32 MM Will do EVERYTHING on these cars.

But you can get by with 8 10 12 14 17 19 & 21 MM This selection will do most things.

You want a 1/4" drive set up to 14mm
And a 3/8" set from 10 to 19 mm
And a few 1/2" sockets like 17 19 & 21 MM

A 1/2" Breaker bar, & Torque wrench. A ratchet set, and a good wrench set from 8-19MM

Also a set of prybars and hammers are useful.

You will also want a good pair of vice grips large, small, and small needle nose.

A large pair of channel locks is also useful. (18" or larger)

And if you can swing the $40 bucks for it a Snap-on 14/17 combo wrench with 15 degree offset is VERY useful. ( I use mine all the time.)

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog

[Venom_5]

i picked up one of those 90+ piece Craftsman sets and a Torque wrench, on top of that i got some adapters to go between 3/8" and 1/2" drive, a 21mm socket for the lug nuts, a 30mm socket for the valve cover (probably wont need this), a 19 and 22mm socket for suspension stuff (probably wont need this either), a 6" extension for my 3/8" drive ratchet .... and then misc stuff that i pick up per task, if i find i need something

[BMR]

Like a few folks have said, Sears tools are a good bang for the buck; decent quality and don't cost a lot. Buying wrenches and sockets and such one-at-a-time is expensive, so buying the larger sets is a good choice if you're gonna do much work.

[gorckat]

I'm a little surprised no one said "Haynes Manual" or something like it yet- best $16 bathroom reader ever (for budding shadetree mechanics anyway ).

Having just bought a 3/8" ratchet set about 2 weeks ago, I'd recommend spending the extra $5-10 for one with a case that fits all the sockets and stuff neatly. I have a 1/4" set with a case and never realized how easy that makes stuff until I bought one without a case. The new set is living in 3 or 4 heavy duty sandwich bags inside a heavy duty 1-gallon freezer bag

Also- a notepad and pen. I make notes as I'm reading the manual or DIYs here, and I also take it with me every time I go into Pep Boys. As I browse, I take notes on tools and prices of on the floor stuff. It's making it a lot easier to prioritize my wants with my needs.

I still need to decide how to organize all the parts lists that Pep Boys prints for me when I ask about stuff- that'll make it easier to get what you need when you have the $100 for the next project...no need to wait around and look up the plugs and wires again, just give'em the printout and let'em snag it straight off.

[Mr.Nutcase]

You need a ball pien hammer, jack stands and jack, test light and multimeter
1/4 ratchet , and metric set 4mm-14mm long and short
3/8 drive ratchet 7mm-22mm long and short
1/2 ratchet 12mm-18, 21, 22, 27, 30mm long and short
Also it would to be good have 1/4 in socket and 5/16 for clamps
List goes on and on
Srewdrivers,
extentions, all drives,

Craftsman is good, Sk is good,
Macto Snap On Mac Cornwell are other higher brands

[djb2]

Originally Posted by frenum49

As far as the torque wrench goes, for starting out I would go with Craftsman ratcheting torque wrench because getting a replacement upon breaking is hassle free.

Nooooooo.

Craftsman does not warranty their torque wrenches. I learned this the hard way when one broke under pretty light use. The ratchet pawl was too thin at the pivot point. The fix was to replace the whole head for $$ -- slight more than half the price of a new one.

The best deal in torque wrenches is the Harbor Fright uhmm Freight 1/2" clicker torque wrench. It's as good as an un-flawed Craftsman wrench, comes with a protective case and actually has a warranty. The best part is that they used to be $10 on sale (now $12 or $14) -- an awesome deal. We keep three around so that we don't have change the settings during a job.

Sears does have several good tools for removing rounded head bolts and nuts. Every few months a set goes on sale for $10 instead of the usual $20. Get them in advance of need, otherwise you'll be hitching a ride to get them at full price.

[duke_togo]

I second the recommendation on the Harbor Freight torque wrench. I have both the 3/8" and 1/2" drive wrenches, and have used them regularly for the past few years on my cars (and lawnmower too, to retorque the blade after sharpening).

[Albuynp Ryeno]

I just picked up those 2 torque wrenchs. Got them both for 15 each.

[96CamrySport]

I think I just threw up in my mouth a little. Now, keep in mind that I use my tools 40 hours a week and the cheap stuff gets weeded out Darwin-style, but I would never dream of using a harbor freight torque wrench at my job-how do you know they're accurate? Any mediocre or better torque wrench will tell you how accurate it is in percentage. Don't buy one if it's more than 4% inaccurate, you're just as well off guessing. cheap chrome sockets will break under hard use, I've split my share. For the shadetree guy who's serious about fixing their own stuff and not taking it to a shop, I'd recommend getting a Craftsman starter kit, in metric, and add a few bits like the 21mm wrench and socket and 30mm socket separately.

I have a C-man 3/8" torque wrench that has slipped, and a Husky 1/2" that has slipped, and I'll definitely upgrade to a heinously expensive Snap-on electric torque wrench when I kill either one. That's going to cost $400-600 and make me cry in the process, but hey, I'm a pro. It's part of the job.

Your grinding - did it come from the front or the rear? It may have been a rock, or your dust shield (would need more info). If it hasn't happened for a while, and it's gone now, you may be in the clear.