Add on cruise control for the DX, have a blinking "cruise" light

[jaybur_racing]

I have solved the issue, please read on.

OK, so I am slowly making progress on my cruise control add on for my DX.

I bought and installed the steering wheel control, the Cruise computer (for 94/95 models only)

And I have the cruise control actuator installed, and hooked up (cables and wiring)

My issue is this..... I can turn my cruise "on" and the light stays lit, but once I hit the "set" button, it blinks a few times and then shuts off the cruise, and the light on the dash goes off, and can't be turned back on until the car is shut off and then turned back to the "run" position.

I have done many searches on this site, and others, and it seems that I am not the only one with a blinking light, HOWEVER nobody has followed up, or possibly never solved the issue?

My actuator assembly is not mounted in yet, I have some zip ties holding it in place ( I want to make sure its going to work before fabricating a mount for it) Toyota drew the line at the harness, they did not supply any mounting points for the actuator in my DX.

anyone have any suggestions?

thanks

[jaybur_racing]

So I guess I am just being lazy, I have the wiring diagram, and the sheet that tells you what voltage or ohms should show up at certain times.

So I guess I will have to start picking away it it piece by piece.

I know this will work, its fully wired for the cruise.
I could even have a bad motor in the cruise actuator I bought off ebay.

well I thought that since it was pretty easy to find others with this problem on their factory equipped cruise camry's that possibly someone had the quick fix.

but not even a reply yet (aside from me)

so I will report back once I get it solved. (i wish everyone did that!)

you don't need to know anything about cars to report back, if a mechanic fixes it, just ask what the problem was, and post the answers here!

Example: My mechanic found the issue! He said it was a loose fluger valve, and the flux capacitor needed more flux.

at least its a starting point, but people tend to fix the problem and then you hear nothing about it!

[Mike Gerber]

Is this an aftermarket or complete OEM system? If OEM, go over to the Camry forum on AutomotiveForums.com and download the generation 3 Toyota factory service manual that is stickied at the top of that forum. The section on cruise control should have a troubleshooting tree to follow. If it is an aftermarket system, try doing a Google search for the aftermarket manufacturer and try contacting them with the problem. Some companies may have an 800 number and some may only offer email support, or you may not find the company, but it's worth a try.

Mike

[jaybur_racing]

its all OEM, and I did download the gen 3 wiring manual. It does show some info on what things should read as far as volts, ohms, but it does not have a tree to follow.

it does list a few things that might cause the "cruise" light to shut off. I will post those up now, just to get this started.

IF any of the following operating conditions occur during cruise control operation, the set speed is erased, current flow to magnetic clutch is cut off, and the cruise is released (main switch turns off, and light on dash goes off)

When this occurs, the ignition switch must be turned off once before the main switch (and light on dash) will turn on again:

*over current to transistor driving motor and/or magnetic clutch

*When current is continued to flow to the motor inside the actuator, in the throttle valve "open" direction.

*open circuit in motor and/or magnetic clutch

*Momentary interruption of vehicle speed signal

*Short circuit in cruise control switch

* motor does not operate despite the motor drive signal being output

[jaybur_racing]

I downloaded the full factory service manual, and I did indeed find the troubleshooting tree for the cruise.

Thanks!

will update the issue once I get to it.

[jaybur_racing]

well I used the info in the FSM to figure out whats up with my cruise issue.

the codes turned out to be 2 things

1. *Overcurrent (short) inmagnetic clutch unit
* Open in magnetic clutch unit

and

2. * Open in actuator motor circuit
*position sensor detects abnormal voltage
* Position sensor signal value does not change when motor operates.

SO

1 of 2 things could be a possibility

first, the actuator is defective (unknown mileage car, and it is from the midwest, so it has corrosion on it.)

OR

I have a short or broken wire in my harness.

Looks like I get to do some probing. (I need to get some aliens from outer space, I hear they like probing)

I am kind of hoping for the issue with my harness, thats an easy fix.


Everything else checks out fine.
they have a procedure for checking the switch on the steering wheel, and everything is working properly.

one of the wiring manuals shows a diode around the glovebox area, I wonder if that might be the culprit?

well at least I am making progress. I hope what I find out, can help others.

[jaybur_racing]

well I finally have Cruise in my DX coupe! I still need to make a bracket to mount the cruise actuator on (zip tied temporarily to make sure it was going to work). And I am using the factory NON-cruise throttle cable, and it works fine.

everything works as it should (all functions on the switch).

I ended up having a broken wire somewhere under the dash (still not sure exactly where, I bypassed it). for the actuator magnet clutch. The wire from the actuator to the "IR" harness (right kickpanel) was good, it was somewhere under the dash.

SO to sum it up. Swapping cruise to a non cruise car (as long as your car has the connectors supplied from the factory, which it SHOULD) is really a piece of cake, most people should be able to do a plug and play install (aside from making a bracket for the actuator OR get the bracket from a car with cruise in it already.)

only problem I have now is my steering wheel trim that filled the spot where there was no cruise switch, I need the piece from a car that has cruise, but that's only cosmetic, and its not even noticeable from the drivers seat.

[jaybur_racing]

also wanted to add that the wire leaving the cruise ECU for the clutch magnet is Green with a black stripe and silver spots, however at the "IR" harness connector it has been changed to red with a yellow stripe, and maintains that color all the way to the cruise actuator. So obviously it is connected to another circuit somewhere.

I Just figured out where it changes from the green black, to the red yellow. It is at the "STOP" light switch. So I need to see whats wrong at that point. possibly the usual suspect of it being out of adjustment. I will report back!
hope this is helpful to someone.

if you need any help or have questions relating to this I will try to help in anyway possible.

[xtremeskier97]

Awesome read. Glad you got it working. Im sure someone will find this useful in the future.

Thanks for posting this information.

[Mike Gerber]

Well done. Glad it's now working properly.

Mike

[jaybur_racing]

Well, I figured out the last glitch...

Toyota decided to throw me a curve ball, the connector that goes into the brake switch has all the wires, BUT my brake switch only has 2 pins! (for the actual brake lights) the 2 pins that would connect my cruise "magnet clutch" circuit are not there.

at least its an easy fix!

SO to finally sum this one up, 2 things necessary to put cruise in a DX.

1. the actuator mount

2. A brake switch out of a car with cruise standard. (this isn't even totally necessary, but why not have it set up the way the factory intended it?)

this is of course assuming your car has the necessary wiring from the factory.