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3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 08-27-2008, 03:26 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Misfiring!

Yesterday i had my mechanic help me install new plugs in my 97 v6 camry. first we put in autolite double platinum plugs but quickly found out that you can't do that because they aren't the double grounds. so we picked up the EXACT replacment plugs required (the NGK R's) which run $10.50 a plug. But i figured, hey theyll last the rest of the life of this car(it has 175k) so ill just do it. we installed them all and everything looked good, drove around, revved it up, it was good. Drove home later that night and decided to really test them out, i got on the highway and floored it, i got up to about 95 and around 4200 rpm and all the sudden it started to jerk and hop(telling me it was miss firing) so i slowed down and drove normally, and everything was fine. today i wanted to see if it would happen, so i went on a run testing all different speeds and everything was fine. My dad wanted to take it for a test run and right when we started backing out of the garage we felt the missfires again. When we started driving it was ok but we'd feel it every now and again?

SOOO my question is, why is this happening!? and how do i fix it ASAP!
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Old 08-27-2008, 04:34 PM   #2 (permalink)
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CEL? None?

Maybe one of the 3 coils on it;s way out.
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Old 08-27-2008, 05:01 PM   #3 (permalink)
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[quote=ASG14;2460475]CEL? None?

quote]


? not sure what you mean
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Old 08-27-2008, 06:04 PM   #4 (permalink)
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No Check Engine Light?
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Old 08-27-2008, 06:48 PM   #5 (permalink)
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nope, none at all, ive talked to few people and they said it might be that the wires are worn, sound right?.
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Old 08-27-2008, 07:03 PM   #6 (permalink)
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If the wires are original, very often the process of pulling them off to do the plugs causes damage that may not be visually apparent. If they are original, at 175K and 11 years, you are certainly due.
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Old 08-27-2008, 07:07 PM   #7 (permalink)
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k, im going to autozone to buy/do them tomorrow, is duralast brand acceptable(its the only one i can afford) and do you know where i can find a diagram for the wires? i know how to do them and all but i was wondering if all the wires are the same length so theyre interchangeable or if theyre are different, i assume thefront far left goes to back far right, front middle to back middle, and front right to back left? but if you know of a diagram itd be greatly appreciated
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Old 08-27-2008, 08:58 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ckyalliance222 View Post
k, im going to autozone to buy/do them tomorrow, is duralast brand acceptable(its the only one i can afford) and do you know where i can find a diagram for the wires? i know how to do them and all but i was wondering if all the wires are the same length so theyre interchangeable or if theyre are different, i assume thefront far left goes to back far right, front middle to back middle, and front right to back left? but if you know of a diagram itd be greatly appreciated
Duralast isnt really acceptable. They wont last that long, not nearly as long as toyota oem ones. I would get toyota oem ones. Also the dealership would have a diagram.
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Old 08-28-2008, 06:43 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ckyalliance222 View Post
k, im going to autozone to buy/do them tomorrow, is duralast brand acceptable(its the only one i can afford) and do you know where i can find a diagram for the wires? i know how to do them and all but i was wondering if all the wires are the same length so theyre interchangeable or if theyre are different, i assume thefront far left goes to back far right, front middle to back middle, and front right to back left? but if you know of a diagram itd be greatly appreciated

Dig a little deeper and get NGK or Denso, otherwise you'll likely be replacing them again sooner than you might like. The wires will be different lengths so replace them one at a time, matching old and new as best you can. This will also prevent crosswiring.
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Old 08-28-2008, 07:45 AM   #10 (permalink)
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i still don't believe the wires to be blamed, sound like your newly installed plugs might have already failed on you, since that was the last thing you touched, i would go to dealer and get the oem spark plug for your v6 camry, also make sure each ignition coil isn't torn or broken off. those thing are costly, like $99 each new from dealer.

one of my friends replaced his wires with aftermarket red color one, i don't know the exact brand he used not sure if it is duralast, and one of the wires melt, the car was shaking badly.
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Old 08-28-2008, 11:11 AM   #11 (permalink)
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i still don't believe the wires to be blamed, sound like your newly installed plugs might have already failed on you, since that was the last thing you touched, i would go to dealer and get the oem spark plug for your v6 camry, also make sure each ignition coil isn't torn or broken off. those thing are costly, like $99 each new from dealer.

one of my friends replaced his wires with aftermarket red color one, i don't know the exact brand he used not sure if it is duralast, and one of the wires melt, the car was shaking badly.

i HIGHLY doubt it could be the plugs, as i said i replaced them with the exact same NGK type R, same model number and everything, i have checked the coils and they seem ok and i figured if it was a messedup coil pack, it would be a consistant misfire and they would have tripped the check engine light, but im going to check a little more into the duralast and make sure theyre suitable

Thanks you to everyone so far, you have been way more then helpful and quick too! i dont feel like doing this anymore now that i have an idea of what it is
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Old 08-28-2008, 01:38 PM   #12 (permalink)
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As the others have said, the Duralast wires won't last very long, but if they are all you can afford get them and save up some money for Toyota OEM wires. They should solve the problem, if it's the wires causing the problem. I would expect the cheap aftermarket wires to last about 1 year or 15,000 to 20,000 miles and then the problem will return. As someone else has said, change 1 wire at a time and match it's length to the new set. You will also need to twist the wires from side to side as you pull on them to remove them. They should come off easily on the plug ends, since they have just recently been off.

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Old 08-28-2008, 02:50 PM   #13 (permalink)
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ok, here is another one,

i am not sure how you change your spark plugs on the rear bank, if you changed spark plug with intake plenum removal, and if you re-use the metal intake plenum gasket and throttle body gasket, EGR gaskets, i suspect there might be a vacuum leak.
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Old 08-28-2008, 03:37 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ckyalliance222 View Post
i HIGHLY doubt it could be the plugs, as i said i replaced them with the exact same NGK type R, same model number and everything, i have checked the coils and they seem ok and i figured if it was a messedup coil pack, it would be a consistant misfire and they would have tripped the check engine light, but im going to check a little more into the duralast and make sure theyre suitable

Thanks you to everyone so far, you have been way more then helpful and quick too! i dont feel like doing this anymore now that i have an idea of what it is
Another thing that is overlooked is if the Spark Plugs dropped or banged around. Once spark plugs are dropped they are finished even though they might look good on the outside.!!!!!!!!
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Old 08-28-2008, 04:37 PM   #15 (permalink)
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ok everybody, i put in the new wires today, took it for a drive and it was fine! so i turned it off and went inside, a few minutes later i got in to pull it into the garage and the problem was there again! im starting to think its not so much a misfire because its kind of like a hiccup, when in neutral its barely there but in reverse its most noticeable, and its not every firing cycle, so what the heck could it be!
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