Oil Pan Gasket...RTV or Cork - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

xtremeskier97 · 08-30-2008, 01:03 PM

Trying to get an idea of how people did this. The first time I did it (couple weeks ago) on my wife's LE, it's leaking. I have a cork gasket and RTV. I only used RTV the first time, but want to use the cork gasket this time, maybe in conjunction with RTV.

So...how did you'll do it? Ive read in one post where someone used both, but they never answered as to which side they put the RTV on or if they put it on both sides.

The engine is cooling right now with a fan on top of it, so ill be doing this very soon.

Thanks!

Stillrunning · 08-30-2008, 03:08 PM

The factory only used RTV. I did mine with only RTV (Permatex) as it is meant to be done. You need to remove the exhaust to do a proper re-installation as there is less chance of smearing the RTV. The bead size and location are also important. Re-installing the pan carefully with the proper alignment is key as well as proper torque.

xtremeskier97 · 08-30-2008, 05:19 PM

Well, that IS how I did it...though after closer inspection, it looks to be a problem with the valve cover gasket/tube nuts. I tightened them down tight when I did the valve cover gasket (same time as I did the oil pan gasket), but it looks as if they came loose and oil dripped down the back of the engine, making it LOOK like it was the oil pan.

Do you'll use thread lock on the tube nuts? Because I tightened them down good and they were hand loose after 2 weeks of driving. The wife is picking up a 30mm socket while she's out, and I will torque them down again and clean the engine bay. This way I can tell where oil is still leaking.

***new echo owner*** · 08-30-2008, 07:43 PM

Did you replace the seals for the spark plug tubes? And did you put sealer on the cam cap and the half moon plug joints?

Use the Toyota sealer, it actually works better than other RTV.

By the way, don't use any sealer on the valve cover gasket itself, except where there is a break at the machined surfaces on the head, cam caps, half moon plugs and so fore.

N.E.O.

xtremeskier97 · 08-30-2008, 08:03 PM

Yeah...I did everything just as you just mentioned..except I didnt use Toyota sealer, as Ive used RTV before and it's worked fine.

Yes, I did replace the tube seals. The nuts on the tubes came loose though. I tightened them good 2 weeks ago and they were finger loose today. I re-torqued them today. If they come loose again, Ill use threadlock on them.

***new echo owner*** · 08-30-2008, 08:15 PM

Usually you do need to tighten those nuts pretty tight, since you have a rubber gasket and rubber seals to deal with, they do come loose once in a while. Just keep an eye on them would help.

N.E.O.

Stillrunning · 08-31-2008, 04:45 PM

xtremeskier97, other possible leak is rear main and distributor o-ring. I have put two Toyota distributor o-rings on my dist. shaft and it still leaked. I inspected and polished the o-ring groove but still a leak. I suspect a mis-manufactured set of Toyo o-rings but did not take measurements and dealer said they have no other complaints(??). I finally maked the timing on the shaft and put some RTV in the o-ring groove with the o-ring - now no oil leak. Not tried to remove the dist. yet.

xtremeskier97 · 08-31-2008, 08:07 PM

I did replace the dist. o-ring 2 weeks ago when I did all the maintenance.

What I just got finished doing was re-torquing the tube nuts to 29 ft. lbs. and 'trying' to replace an exhaust stud that snapped on me 2 weeks ago. Go figure, when I FINALLY got the freakin' stud out and put a new one in, the threads in the hole stripped out! If there was no such thing as bad luck, Id have no luck at ALL with this car! One thing after another with it! Driving me INSANE!

I got the stud in and tightened down just enough so that it doesnt putter from an exhaust leak, but I have a feeling Im going to have to re-tap that hole and put in a new bolt. Anyone ever had to do that before on an exhaust manifold stud? I have a tap and die set (never used before), but I dont want to mess something up.

Any help with this new problem?

EDIT Forgot to mention...along the bad luck lines...on the way to AutoZone to rent the stud remover, my XLE in my sig started to over heat! Now I have THAT to deal with, along with trying to fix the LE.

Not to mention the Hurricane that is heading this way!

***new echo owner*** · 08-31-2008, 08:19 PM

I wouldn't suggest putting RTV on the distributor o-ring. If you put in the right size o-ring and lube it before installing the distributor, it usually won't leak, that is if the dist shaft seal is not leaking to start with. If the distributor is leaking, it usually runs down on the side between the engine and transmission.

Anyway, which exhaust stud are you replacing? You can also consider putting a Helicoil in the hole too.

N.E.O.

***new echo owner*** · 08-31-2008, 08:21 PM

By the way, has anyone try using oil dye and a black light to determine the source of oil leak before diving into oil leak repair?

N.E.O.

xtremeskier97 · 08-31-2008, 08:50 PM

It's the exhaust stud that is closest to the battery on the head. It's definitely stripped out, but its holding for now with no putter. I know I will have to fix it right soon.

What is this helicoil thing? Never heard of it. Do you have any experience with it? If so, please explain.

Ive heard of oil dye, but never seen anyone ever use it before. How soon does the dye show up? Tomorrow morning I will be removing the alternator and battery. Then I will be covering the distributor with a plastic bag and start pressure washing the engine and undercarriage. I REALLY want to know where the oil is coming from.

Thanks NEO

***new echo owner*** · 08-31-2008, 09:09 PM

Helicoil is a metal insert that you can install to repair stripped out bolt holes; check out this link:

http://www.helicoil.in/index.htm

Another option is a thread repair kit from Permatex:
http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81668.../dp/B000AL4WAS

Anyway, you add the oil dye into the crankcase, run the engine for a few miles or a few hundred miles depending on the severity of the leak, then check it with a Black light. (You do need a Black light to do this) Under the Black light the dye will show up bright yellow. The best part is, you don't need to clean up the engine first, at least most of the time. And it will show you the source of the leak rather than guessing.

N.E.O.

xtremeskier97 · 08-31-2008, 10:16 PM

Hmmm...im seriously thinking about the dye!

Sounds awesome.

Anyone ever used this

http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...sket_Maker.htm

for gaskets?

Stillrunning · 09-01-2008, 09:45 AM

I asked Permatex what to use for this application. They spec'd this:
http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...sket_Maker.htm

Works great on pan gasket and at corners of valve cover gasket.

renmike · 09-01-2008, 11:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stillrunning

I asked Permatex what to use for this application. They spec'd this:
http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...sket_Maker.htm

Works great on pan gasket and at corners of valve cover gasket.

Why do you not just go to toyota and get a tube of the FIPG Gasket maker? It's what they state to use in the shop manual and it costs around 10-12 dollars a tube. I bought a couple of tubes when I had my 95 camry and I've used it on it and my current '93 camry with great success.