Electric window fix

[loonmobile]

My driver's window stopped working in the open position. It was stuck in the open position yesterday and early this morning, then suddenly we were able to close it. We will leave it closed until we can fix this problem. About 2 1/2 years ago we had the exact same problem. I had the window motor replaced with an after market part, but the window regulator was not replaced.

The local Toyota dealer thinks it's the window regulator or window motor, or both. He doesn't think the problem is the window module because all the other windows work OK, however it seems that if a button is going to malfunction, it is likely to be the much more used driver's window control.

Toyota wants $600 to diagnose and replace the window motor and window regulator.

I am considering getting salvaged parts through the automotive part search engine, www.uneedapart.com and have the parts send by overnight delivery and have my mechanic install them. I am considering ordering all three: the window motor, regulator, control module.

Does anybody have any wisdom to shed on this predicament? Should I replace all three parts? These sporadic problems are sometimes the hardest to solve and as such, maybe all three parts should be replaced to make certain that I am solving this problem.

[Kep]

Do some searches for more background. This is almost always a fault with the wiring between the door and body of the car. A quick and dirty test is to hold the switch with the key on while opening and closing the door multiple times. If the window stops or hesitates it almost has to be the wire(s). The strands in the wires break over time and hundreds of door openings and closings. When the break lines up just right you get power and can operate the function.

Another test to exonerate the motor and regulator is to open the door panel, pull the connection at the motor and run wires from the battery directly to the motor. Touch them one way and the window goes up, reverse the wires and the window goes down. If it works then those are not the problem.

There are a lot of threads on this. Many of them can be found with a search for the “master switch” . Here is a recent thread: power window wire shorting from Gen 1&2.

I would discourage you from replacing anything until you test it. However, if you have a mechanic do the work they often replace things routinely because sometimes the test is more expensive than the part.

Kep

[dz63]

Kep is right on the money. My guess is that it is a break in the wiring where it flexes at the door hinge. I had to replace these wires on all four doors over the past few years on my '96 Camry. The insulation cracks and then the wires fatigue and eventually break - sometimes the wires touch intermittently allowing the windows to work intermittently. I cut out the bad section of the wires, soldered in new wire and heat shrunk the solder joints. It takes about 2-3 hours per door. I used a DC power supply to test the motor the first time and then just went straight to the wiring harness on the subsequent occurences.

[ekim55121]

I had the same problem on my 96 and it turns out that that in the tube holding the wires from the door pillar some of the wires were worn through. try opening the door and rolling up the window at the same time if it does roll up then the wiring is your problem.

BTW it was hilarious to not tell my friends and watch them roll any window down on the highway to have a smoke and then them not being able to roll the window back up untill i opened my door half way.

[loonmobile]

Yikes-- I checked out several posts regarding "master switch". I will hold off on ordering any parts and see if I can trace the trouble down by first inspecting the wires. I will let you know how it goes! I'm glad I got the feedback from you guys. Thanks!

[BMR]

I've had both failure modes on my Camry. A broken wire in the driver's door service loop which caused loss of control to the front passenger's window when using the driver's controls. The passenger's control worked fine.

And I've had both front regulators fail, resulting in the window jamming partially open. I don't remember the details, but it had something to do with the cable guide system breaking. I bought OEM Toyota regulators (reg only, the motors were OK), and they had redesigned the guide system in the problem area.

The Avy hasn't had any probs yet. Knock on wood.

[commie92]

i have this same problem right now. but it has to do with the passenger door. the door lock switch works, but the windows doesnt come down using its switch or the master switch. can you please tell me how to exactly test if it is the motor or regulator, thanks.

[Kep]

Second paragraph of my reply above.

Kep