3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
1994 Camry V6 XLE with 85,000 babied, mostly-city miles.
Trans was flushed a the dealer in February of 2007. Probably 5,000 miles on her since then.
Recently started getting a Check Engine light and intermittently the transmission wants to start off in high gear, forcing a manual shift into "1" initially to get it going.
This problem seems to be intermittent, but I haven't figured out the pattern yet -- hot/cold/etc.
I've gotten both the P0753 and P0773 codes, but it's mainly the P0753 that seems to stick.
P0753 is Shift Solenoid A
P0773 is Shift Solenoid E
While driving and while it's throwing the P0753 code, the O/D OFF light flashes during acceleration or deceleration.
Equipped with what little information I could find here, I had the dealer test the wiring, test Solenoid A (they replaced it since they say it tested bad), but they say the shift problem is still intermittent.
$600+ lighter, it's currently working okay for the past 10 miles, but it's still tossing a P0753 code. Currently there is no Check Engine Light and I was able to erase the P0753 code for now, but I am anticipating the worst.
The dealer says a Toyota remanufactured transmission runs $2600+ labor, and obviously I'm going to try to avoid that since the car's not worth much more than that.
Any suggestions on possible resolutions to these symptoms?
What did they do for your $600+ ? Is it still setting the P0753 code? How was the transmission fluid when you had the two code, red and clean? How did the transmission act beside no 1st gear?
Check your battery and alternator health to make sure the TCU and ECU are getting a good regulated voltage. Check the TCU harness, pull it off and re-seat it (with car off and battery disconnected of course).
I would think it's unusual to have 2 solenoids go bad at the same time. You may have a bad TCU. Another possibility is that your valve body is bad.
Make sure the trans wasn't overfilled.
Check the electrical solenoid connector on the trans to make sure it is not loose or corroded.
If the fluid in your transmission for good before the repair, we can safely ASSUME that there is probably nothing wrong with the clutch packs, at least not slipping or burnt up. And the problem that you are having could only be electrical control.
With 85,000 miles on your car and having an intermittent problem with the solenoid, I would hope that they also replaced the harness inside the transmission. Since your vehicle was operated mostly in the city, it also means the transmission is subjected to higher than usually temperature comparing to one that is driven on the highway. It is possible that the generated heat could have cause the insulation of the harness to fail, there by causing a short, open circuit or high resistance. Beside monitor the input and output speed sensor to control the gears, the ECM also monitors the current draw of the solenoid to determine if the solenoid's operation, if the harness had increased in resistance or shorted to ground, it would have affect this reading to the ECM, which will turn on the CEL.
Just my 2 cents worth of speculation.
N.E.O.
Last edited by new echo owner; 09-05-2008 at 07:16 PM.
Interesting observations about possible electrical issues related to battery and alternator health... battery health has at times been an issue with short drives the car has taken in recent years, but I had not thought of associating it with a transmission problem.
I'll have to see if there's a pattern tied to electrical drain (e.g., lights on, A/C on, etc.).
I would have hoped that the service tech checked the connectors and wiring since I specifically asked about those items.
What was replaced was the 85420-33010 Solenoid Assembly, which is really two solenoid-looking thingies tied to about 12" of wiring harness (a pricey item at $260.73) -- no other parts are indicated on the service order except for a gasket.
The frustrating part of this problem is the dealer seems to be more interested in selling me a new car or a remanufactured transmission (at $2600 plus labor), so I probably should have gone to a transmission shop to begin with.
One independent general repair shop I went to test drove it and poked around and kept it overnight, and their best guess is the torque converter isn't working right, which is forcing it into limp mode, which basically means a transmission rebuild.
Not feeling comfortable with that, off I went to an independent transmission shop who would actually spend some time diagnosing things, though on the clock... check continuity on all the wires, even from the computer to the transmission and everywhere else he could think of. Tested this, probed that, including the aforementioned "bad" solenoid that the dealer replaced (it tested good, by the way). They did everything they could on their trusty 15-or-so-year-old equipment except run it on a machine which can manually shift the transmission. As it turns out, their Schaeffer Shifter machine doesn't work with the '94 Camry because of the unique wiring. But based on what they did test, they're thinking it's the PCM.
Does anyone make a machine that can test the transmission in these cars? I'm thinking I need to get it to a shop that can do this one test to be sure it's not the computer. Am I overlooking the obvious (e.g., AAMCO?).
Any good sources for quality rebuilt PCMs? First estimate was looking at $1500. Ugh.
Tested this, probed that, including the aforementioned "bad" solenoid that the dealer replaced (it tested good, by the way).
Do I understand that the independent was able to test the original shft solenoid A (which you apparently kept?) and that it tested out good? Or did he test the replacement solenoid? If it was the original, I'd try real hard to get a refund from the dealer. Since they didn't correct the P0753 you might hassle them anyhow.
Sorry I don't have any constructive thoughts.
Kep
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Often, it's the loose screw between the steering wheel and the driver's seat that needs to be fixed first!
No constructive thoughts here either. Wish you all the best though....
I was looking for the thread which shows the transmission screw to tighten to smooth the shifts (the thread actually shows how to increase power, but i want to go the other way). Really sucks to hear about ur situation. Why not just get a second hand tranny..... surely that would be less than the money u r paying for investigations....
Do I understand that the independent was able to test the original shft solenoid A (which you apparently kept?) and that it tested out good? Or did he test the replacement solenoid? If it was the original, I'd try real hard to get a refund from the dealer. Since they didn't correct the P0753 you might hassle them anyhow.
Sorry I don't have any constructive thoughts.
Kep
He tested both the original and the replaced solenoid -- both are good. Yes, a trip to the dealer for a negotiation is planned after this is sorted out. I'm a little frustrated with the service advisor because it seems he's not demanding more from his techs.
My god u wasting too much money here... I had my transmission replaced for a 2001 model and got it for $325 and even though my labor was cheap which was $250 I think you should be able to get it done at the very least $800 or so considering normal prices for labor and possibly finding a good transmission. The amount of money you spent could of already had you a working transmission without the headaches.
Independent shop got it hooked-up to something to be able to shift it manually, and he says it works as it should... fingers continue to point to the PCM, which will be replaced as soon as it comes in.
The problem is I've read even on this board that people think it's one thing and it ends up being something else. Replacing a transmission in a FWD car ain't an inexpensive proposition.
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