Gen 3.5 oil Pan Drop - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

mandyfig · 09-10-2008, 07:41 AM

Been looking at the DIY data which is extensive and awesome....BUT, but we do not have a DIY for an oil pan drop.

I have done some searches and this oil pan drop is quite an exercise. There are some hindrances to nake it a very easy DIY. Such as removing brackets and the exhaust pipe...

Expert opinions, needed. I have read that it takes about an hour to do the whole thing.

Most of the oil leaks come from the oil pan gasket...other than your other source...which is the drive section (oil pump, etc.). Or else it would be coming from your valve cover gasket.

Pics from a DIY would be good.

Comments, tips, suggestions needed for some of us to take it on as a DIY and add to our vast knowledge base.

Thanks in advance.

I plan on doing this pretty soon, perhaps, like now....

mandyfig · 09-12-2008, 11:31 AM

I am ready to perform a DIY on this, so, is it RTV or Cork?

RTV being apply and install pan. Cork being, put in place and bolt on the pan.

BlueFusion6851 · 09-12-2008, 10:56 PM

I believe that it is a RTV-type gasket, I was just reading the FSM and it mentioned applying a sealant and re-installing the oil pan within 5 minutes due to the sealant setting. Hope this helps!

xtremeskier97 · 09-13-2008, 08:18 AM

Before going through replacing the pan gasket, make sure the spark plug tube seals are tightened to spec (29 or 36 ft lbs cant remember). My oil leak was on the back side of the valve cover and it make it looked like it was the pan gasket. Once I tightened the nuts, no more oil leak.

I DID replace the gasket though, and it is kind of a pain. I took the nuts off the exhaust manifold and took the exhaust braces off on the front of the engine so that I could pull the exhaust forward off the manifold studs and lower the exhaust enough to get the pan in without smearing the RTV.

I also took off the transmission inspection plate and the transmission to engine brace. Once these things are removed, its easy to replace. I used RTV when I did mine (have cork gasket standing by just in case) but I have had no problems with the RTV after about 3-4 weeks of driving.

mandyfig · 09-14-2008, 12:42 PM

Thanks for the tips!

mandyfig · 10-17-2008, 11:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xtremeskier97

Before going through replacing the pan gasket, make sure the spark plug tube seals are tightened to spec (29 or 36 ft lbs cant remember). My oil leak was on the back side of the valve cover and it make it looked like it was the pan gasket. Once I tightened the nuts, no more oil leak.

I DID replace the gasket though, and it is kind of a pain. I took the nuts off the exhaust manifold and took the exhaust braces off on the front of the engine so that I could pull the exhaust forward off the manifold studs and lower the exhaust enough to get the pan in without smearing the RTV.

I also took off the transmission inspection plate and the transmission to engine brace. Once these things are removed, its easy to replace. I used RTV when I did mine (have cork gasket standing by just in case) but I have had no problems with the RTV after about 3-4 weeks of driving.

I was looking at the manual, as I intend to do my oil pan gasket repair this weekend, it says to replace the exhaust gasket (there's 2), because they are one time use. Did you have to replace the gasket when you unbolted your exhaust pipe?

How hard was it to break the bolt (3 of them) on teh exhaust pipe?

I bought 2 tubes of the Toyota OEM gasket maker, not really realizing it only needs one tube, when it came in they were big tubes of the FIPG, anyway I have a spare for the next time I work on it again, which hopefully is after at least 2 years!

Thanks in advance.

davemac2 · 10-17-2008, 12:13 PM

mandyfig,

You probably don't need to replace the exhaust gaskets if not too old and they are in good condition, but it is advisable. If they are old, they may not have much give left in them and would not seal well again. If you don't get new ones, try to mark them with a permanent marker as to their exact orientation between the pipes so you can put them back in the same way. Use some PB blaster on the exhaust bolts the night before to lossen them up. How rusty they are depends upon how bad your winter gets. In California here, I never have any problems with them.

Here's a great tip for people doing their oil pans. (I'll be doing mine this weekend, ):

Find a bit of some metric thread rod the same as the oil pan bolt size. If you can't find rod, just get 2 1" long cheap bolts the same size and cut off the heads. Before applying your sealant to the pan and re-installing, screw the two or four thread rod pieces into oil pan holes of the engine block on opposite sides to act as guides for replacing the pan. Secure the pan with a few of the bolts, then remove the rods.

dave mc

mandyfig · 10-17-2008, 02:08 PM

Great tip! I wonder if I have to wait until you're done...perhaps you take pics? Thanks again!

mandyfig · 10-17-2008, 03:15 PM

I just cut off the heads on 4 10 mm bolts....I am ready. I will swing by an auto store to pick up the gaskets....they wont cost much. Might as well replace it, it has been 13 years....

mandyfig · 10-17-2008, 03:17 PM

We need a pretty good scraper to clean the pan and the seal area....what kind of cleaner is good to use? They recommend a non-residue type spray....and they talk about a seal breaker, which I think is just a sharp blade.

***new echo owner*** · 10-17-2008, 03:35 PM

Brake cleaner leave no residue, carb/choke cleaners do.

If it has been leaking, use a mallet to tap on the side of the pan may break it loose, otherwise, try a scraper, but be careful, it may damage the surface of the pan or block.

N.E.O.

mandyfig · 10-17-2008, 04:55 PM

How about engine cleaner?

mandyfig · 10-17-2008, 04:57 PM

Reading through the oil pan instructions in the manual, there's actually a mention of 2 bolts sticking out and 2 nuts which are actually used for alignment...I think.

***new echo owner*** · 10-17-2008, 05:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mandyfig

How about engine cleaner?

As far as I know, most will leave residue.

And yes, two of them are studs retained with nuts.

Are you working on a 4 or 6 cylinder? It doesn't matter the info still valid, but some of the six don't need to remove the exhaust.

N.E.O.

mandyfig · 10-17-2008, 06:38 PM

2.2 L in line 4. Yes, the exhaust pipe has to come down. The exhaust gaskets are cheap $2.00 each, if you can find 2. I have been to 2 stores, I could only buy 1, 1 is back ordered. Better change the gasket.