Hot on Idle - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

C110GTR · 09-19-2008, 07:04 AM

Hi
My 3VZ Camry's temp gauge shows hot like next to the red line or on it after 30 minutes of driving sometimes. This only happens on bad traffic, traffic light or idling. When the car moves the needle goes down to normal again. I tried revving the car on stationary and does the same thing the needle goes down to normal.

What can cause this? the car is running fine

toyotaisquality · 09-19-2008, 10:34 AM

i dont have a gen 3 but it sounds like one of your cooling fans isnt working. there are only three reasons why that could be. 1: a bad coolant temperature sensor. 2:a bad cooling fan relay. 3:a bad cooling fan motor. Whenever the car heats up again to a bit above normal operating temperature, I would put a multimeter on the plug that plugs into the fan motor. If there is 12 volts there then it is the motor. If there isnt 12 volts there, then I would pull the relay out and do a continuity check on the poles on that relay compared to the poles on a new relay at the auto parts store. If it is the same on both relays, then i would almost bet its a coolant temperature sensor.

Black95Cam · 09-19-2008, 01:53 PM

have you test the sensor/gauge?

davemac2 · 09-19-2008, 04:46 PM

It sounds like your cooling fan is not running well or you are very low on coolant?.

The 3vz uses a hydraulic fan that is run off the power steering pump. Maybe your auxillary belt is slipping or the power steering pump is not working well (ie. lack of hydraulic pressure), or your power steering fluid is low due to a steering rack leak? It is pretty rare for those hydraulic fan motors to fail themselves. Since you seem to be able to cool the engine when the it is revv'ed, it's not likely a sensor. Also make sure the fan blades themselves are in good shape and the fan is well secured to the fan motor. As well, check up in front of the rad for any plastic bags or anything caught up against the rad.

There is a smaller possibility that your water pump is badly corroded and not circulating coolant well, or you have a blockage in the rad. (ie corrosion maybe).

dave mc

toyotaisquality · 09-19-2008, 06:04 PM

sorry c100gtr. I was not aware that the fan on those cars was hydraulically operated. Forget what i said. I hope i didnt cause any confusion.

C110GTR · 09-21-2008, 05:56 AM

found this unplugged since I bought the car...
cant find where it should be connected

dont know if its connected to my heating problem

***new echo owner*** · 09-21-2008, 12:14 PM

Did you check on the lower part of the radiator to see if there is a switch/sensor there that is not connected?

N.E.O.

C110GTR · 10-14-2008, 07:29 AM

sorry a bit of a late reply

I took the car to a radiator shop and the guy told me that it was just lacking coolant he poured almost 5litres.
This solved the issue instantly.
After a week or so the issue is back.

Bought a new coolant and poured around 4 litres let it idle with cap on for a while for air.
Now the problem is back.

The guy from the shop pressure tested the cooling system and cant find any leaks.

I've got no blown headgasket.
What can it be then?

Radiator cap not sealing properly? no visible wear/tear

Please advice thanks

***ASG14*** · 10-14-2008, 10:36 AM

#1: Did you find out where that plug is supposed to go?

#2: If a pressure test was done, and NO leaks were found, and your loosing coolant, the radiator and coolant filler neck caps are often the issue.

#3: Check around the ends of the coolant hoses for any leaks.

davemac2 · 10-14-2008, 02:01 PM

Lack of any sensor connection is not going to cause a coolant leak. There is one connector on the XLE at the front like that that is not connected to anything.

5 liters a week is a BIG leak. There must be some evidence of it leaking. Are you checking under your car in the morning for a puddle of coolant? Are there coolant residue stains on the top of the rad, bottom of the rad on the plastic undershield? If you already have crusty coolant stains around the rad, that is likely eveidence of a current leak. In that case, take a hose and wash it all off so you can diagnose with a clean slate.

What you may want to do is do a run on the highway for at least 30 mins and get the cooling system good and hot, then open up the hood and check around the rad or underneath for any drips. The leaks will show up more in this case. See if you can see any fine coolant mist coming off the rad anywhere. Do you have an original plastic rad? If you do, look for any fine cracks on the top end of the rad where it may be leaking from. If you have a leak somewhere, some wetness should show up in this case. If nothing, leave the car for a few hours after this, then come back and check for puddles again.

dave mc