3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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Hey everyone, ive ran into a problem with my 98 Camry 2.2. Car just shut off on the freeway. Turned out to be my Tbelt slipped. Installed a new one, went to crank it and no firing up. Compression is beautiful, getting spark, fuel pump is pumping fuel, unhooked fuel line from filter and its flowing, etc, i went ahead and sprayed some BG intake cleaner into the TB and it fired up. When i stopped spraying it died. So i checked out the injectors, pulled off one connector, its getting voltage from one terminal but no signal from other... i used a test light. I checked the fuses and all look good. I was thinking ECU or maybe the crank angle sensor since the tbelt slipped maybe it damaged it. Not sure, just posted up here to see any camry gurus can shed some ideas. Thank you.
I'm not sure, but I think...that if the engine runs while you spray in an alternate fuel that the crank sensor is OK. It pretty much exonerates the electrical components (I believe this would include the sensors responsible for "telling the ECM to generate spark) and focuses your attention on the fuel delivery system. That may include the ECM.
It's tempting to question the new timing belt installation. Are you sure...? I keep going back to the fact that it ran with the intake cleaner. I think that exonerates the TB also but I'm not positive. The cleaner might be volatile enough to run where gas wouldn't.
Might do a fuel pressure check. Even though it is flowing it may not be flowing enough.
It is very unusual for a timing belt to slip for no reason. Any idea what cause it to slip?
Luck,
Kep
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Often, it's the loose screw between the steering wheel and the driver's seat that needs to be fixed first!
There are two sensors you need to look at, the crank sensor, and the cam sensor, they both need to be working for the ECM to initialize injector pulse. Check to see if there is a code stored, either one failed will set a code.
Double check your timing belt installation to make sure it is properly timed.
The timing belt was just old, it jumped, or stripped a bunch of teeth and the car died. I rechecked the timing marks when installing the new belt about 4 times and all the timing marks are good. I was spraying the cleaner in TB and when it fired up, it was running really smooth, so i ruled out it being the new timing belt being installed wrong. Compression was real good too. I had the fuel pump out and tested it, it runs/sounds pretty good, i also put it back in the tank and cranked it without the fuel line connected and it shot out fuel with good power. Now another thing made me confused, the little green fitting where u check fuel pressure, after i tried cranking it, i pushed in the little valve cork thing and no pressure was there, i would think fuel would shoot out. Fuel filter is about 1 year old and looks fresh. The pump gushes out fuel from the tank... so i dont know wassup with the green fitting having no pressure... none of the lines look kinked or broken. I was leading toward the fuel pump being weak, but why would it do that when the tbelt failed?...and how it shoots out the fuel it doesnt look weak. Than the main thing, im not getting injector pulse?
I tried checking codes using the jumper wire of the 2 terminals(repair manual suggested) but didint see the engine light flash, it was just on, with the key on.. im gonna try that again today. Im also believing its the crank or cam sensor.
Anymore ideas, bring them on. Ill keep everyone posted. Thanks.
The green cap is for the evap system, no fuel pressure on that, just vapor pressure or vacuum. 98, I am not sure if you can check code with the jumper, it is OBDII.
N.E.O.
Last edited by new echo owner; 09-25-2008 at 09:21 AM.
Cool, i was also thinking that, i have the 0bd2 scan tool, but the diagnostic connector in the engine bay is different, unless theres another one under the dash? Im gonna mess with it in a few. Thanks.
Lil update, i tested the cam sensor, ohms was within spec, than checked the crank sensor, and wasnt pulling no readings.. and it looked really dirty. Found the scanner hookup, has no codes. Gonna replace the crank sensor and hope for the best. Till then..
If it is the ECM, it would have set a code too. There should be resistance at the crank sensor. If it is open, it would have set a code though. The crank sensor you had replaced, is it a new one? Where is it located at?
N.E.O.
Last edited by new echo owner; 09-25-2008 at 01:11 PM.
Brand new from toyota. Located right near the crank shaft sprocket. I hooked up a scanner and theres no codes.
I checked for ohms on the old one and it read 800-1300 ohms but just for a second, than no numbers. Thought it was my meter but so i checked the cam sensor and it read perfect within specs, so i thought the crank sensor was acting funny, so i went and picked up a new one, dealer. Tested that and it read the same numbers but just for a second than cleared. Threw it on and no start.
This car is getting no injector pulse, only happened after the tbelt jumped.
It almost sound like you have an open in the sensor wiring, because it has to have to constant resistance reading. Have you try testing it closer towards the sensor without the wiring? Like poking through the insulation? Or move the wires around?
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