3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
This started to happen about a year ago. I have no idea what might be causing it but I'm guessing some sort of sensor. It's hard to explain so I'll give an example.
Lets say I drive for 30 minutes. I turn the car off and go somewhere. Five minutes later, I'm back and I start up the car and pull out of the driveway. I floor the gas and it accelerates without a problem and the new tires actually lose grip. The problem is 2 minutes later at a red light/stop sign etc, the vehicle no longer has the acceleration and feels really sluggish up until 4k rpm.
So pretty much, anywhere between the time i start the car and 1 min, the car accelerates fine and yes the engine is warm because its been running for 30 minutes already.
Does anyone know specifically what might be causing this? Any input is appreciated, positively or negatively. Thanks
No! It's not because I have an ES 350 and that thing flies. I've driven the Camry for about 5 years now.
Things I've done:
Sea Foamed - All three options - Gas tank/ Engine Oil / Brake Booster
New Spark Plugs
New Engine Oil
New Transmission Oil
Flushed Radiator
New Tires/ Checked Air Pressure
New Air/ Filter
Removed two 12' Sub woofers w/box. Amp and Full Sized Spare.
I always run Premium Fuel
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As of 05/05/09:
2007 ES350 Prem. - 37,00 Miles
2004 Acura TL ssm - 71,000 Miles
1996 Camry V6 LE - 150,000 Miles - Totalled
it sounds like the symptoms of a knocksensor pulling timing and dumping fuel- mostly because you say that the car has absolutely no power until 4K, which is basically what it feels like when the knock sensor is going on the fritz
not sure why it would do that in your case though, since your car seems pretty well maintained and the mileage isn't that high
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"Life is a deep sleep, of which love is the dream..." Ripped...and the girls are loving it.
You might still be on to something there Eye8, a bad knock sensor can happen at any mileage but don't they usually throw a code pretty quick when something isn't right?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony the Tiger
I mod my Camry because I am too cheap to go out and buy a real sports car
1992 Camry XLE v6: p&p + 3angle, CAI, y pipe, K-Sport coilovers, 5-speed swap
1996 Eagle Talon TSI AWD: IPT 3700 restall, DSMlink v3, HKS exhaust, ETS street fmic kit
I was thinking of the EGR valve sticking or the coolant temp sensor out of range; however, either one would have cause some type of running problem beside slow acceleration.
You might still be on to something there Eye8, a bad knock sensor can happen at any mileage but don't they usually throw a code pretty quick when something isn't right?
well, that's one of the misconceptions about knock sensors....just because they're "hearing" something and throwing your car into semi-limp mode by temporarily pulling timing and dumping fuel, they won't throw a code
the only time that you'll get the dreaded (especially for us boosted guys) p0330 or p0325 is when the knock sensor is actually "dead" or actually on its way to dying. Basically, when that happens, the knock sensor doesn't send any signals to the ecu- also another reason why we can't just pull the sensors out and drive without it. The ecu needs a constant variable signal from the knock sensors to keep it happy....which is another reason why we can't just stick a resistor in there and call it a day either.
But as much as it sounds like the symptoms of a knock sensor, I don't see why he that would happen to him either...usually, when a knock sensor is about to die, it'll randomly throw the p0330 or p0325 code every once in awhile and then eventually it'll stay on and they're done for sure.
As for what NEO said....I can see them as possibilities too, but the coolant temp would just make the car run richer, but shouldn't be to the point where you feel like the car isn't going. and as for the egr stuck open, possible if we're talking about low throttle, etc, but if even at full throttle it's like he's describing, then it's not the egr valve sticking open, as at WOT, the egr valve would be fully open anyway due to vacuum pressure from both openings on the TB
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HaHa
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"Life is a deep sleep, of which love is the dream..." Ripped...and the girls are loving it.
I agree with your assessment on those items, as I had mentioned, there would have been other symptoms besides slow acceleration if either one of them is the cause.
I wonder what his IAT is when he is having problem.
One more item to throw in for speculation, ACIS, what would happen if the valve stuck open?
N.E.O.
Last edited by new echo owner; 09-26-2008 at 08:37 AM.
I was under the impression that ACIS effective change the intake length by its operation; opens up to allow more air to enter into the engine at high speed and increase the air speed at low speed. Thus resulted in a wider power band.
It does, but a malfunction won't cause serious symptoms and would be one of the last things to consider. not to mention to check it is as simple as messing with the vacuum lines and moving the actuator by hand to see if it is stuck.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony the Tiger
I mod my Camry because I am too cheap to go out and buy a real sports car
1992 Camry XLE v6: p&p + 3angle, CAI, y pipe, K-Sport coilovers, 5-speed swap
1996 Eagle Talon TSI AWD: IPT 3700 restall, DSMlink v3, HKS exhaust, ETS street fmic kit
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