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There are several possibilities. If you're willing to do some checks yourselves (I'd definitely encourage your daughter to do most of the work, you keep her working safe) there are a few quick checks. Can you tell if the noise is more metal on metal or rubber on metal? Does the noise speed up and slow down with the speed of the car? Does the noise occur or go away when you apply the brakes? Does the noise always happen in the same conditions (can you duplicate it whenever you want)?
One check is to just get the wheels over hard to the right (where they are when you hear the scraping) and look for anything obvious. On some of the earlier models there was a fairly flimsy metal semi circular plate that helped cooling air circulate over the brakes. Sometimes this would be bent and rub on the inside of the rim.
Another check is to get some jack stands, jack the car up and put it safely on the stands. (You don't want to put any of your body parts beneath a car only supported by a car jack.) Now, with the car off and in neutral and the key turned so you can twist the steering wheel, someone can spin the wheels by hand to see if you can hear the scraping. If you can isolate the noise you can probably figure out what it is.
If you don't plan to do this yourselves then take it back to the shop that did the original work. They will probably "find" something that they didn't do that is wrong but, if you can demonstrate the noise whenever you need to, they will find it and fix it. This is a good opportunity to establish a good relationship with your mechanic. If they take care of you and don't nickle and dime you they are a keeper.
By any chance is it more of a clicking sound? When the CVC joint begins to wear out it makes a clicking sound (much like the sound of a card on bicycle spokes makes). At first this only happens on a hard turn. It is not immediately a concern but will get progressively louder. Usually this happens after the rubber CVC boot (accordion looking cone) is torn and the grease leaks out. If this is it you will likely want to get the CVC joint(s) replaced. There are several options. Best would be brand new both sides. There are re-manufactured CVCs available (often with lifetime part guarantee but no labor guarantee. Try to get the best labor guarantee that you can.) that are pretty good. If you're on a budget you can just have one side replaced rather than both.
Let us know what you learn. By the way, I'm no mechanic. Keep that in mind when weighing various comments.
Kep
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Often, it's the loose screw between the steering wheel and the driver's seat that needs to be fixed first!
Stock 1995 Camry, 5SFE, Sedan.
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