3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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I have a 92 Camry with the 5S-FE 4 cylinder. I had been missing of and on at low speed under load. Took it to the mechanics. He got it to miss. Checked wiring, plugs, etc. in ignition. For some reason, switched #1 plug and #4. It ran fine after that. At least for a few days. It started missing a bit again, so I replaced the plugs with Bosch Platinum-2 (had plugs, wires, coil, rotor, and cap replaced 8,000 miles ago when coil went out). Things were fine for a couple of days. Today, on the way home, it started running terrible. I barely made it home.
I went to check the timing when I noticed no spark from the timing light on #1. I tried it on #2 - no light. #3 and #4 gave me light on the timing light. So, evidently I made it home on two cylinders. I checked the inside the cap, and it looked fine. I can't figure out why I'm getting fire on #3 and #4 but not #1 and #2. I checked the resistance of all the plug wires, and they were all fine with great continuity.
What kind of parts did you put it? OEM or aftermarket?
If you are getting spark in #3 and #4, the only thing left is the cap, rotor and plug wires. Have you try pulling the plug wires off at the plugs to see if it is getting spark?
Parts are aftermarket. Bosch plugs and cap. Don't know about rotor or coil as shop did that 8k ago. I didn't pull the wires off since I figured that the timing light not lighting for just those two cylinders indicated that they weren't getting fire.
Tomorrow, I'm going to pull the plugs and ground them and see if they're sparking across the gap. When I checked the resistance of the wires, I checked them connected to the cap, so there is good continuity from cap through the other end of the wires.
Sometimes, aftermarket parts don't work well with Toyota vehicles.
You can still have a bad cap, even if the wires measure good from the cap. Have you check for carbon tracks inside the cap, which would cause the spark to arc to ground instead of going to the plugs. You are looking at high voltage here, it looks for the easiest path to ground.
I couldn't see any carbon tracks nor cracks. I'm hoping it's not the ECM not sending signals to the igniter for those cylinders.
And btw, thanks for replying and trying to help. I'm headed to bed right now, but I'll check in tomorrow morning.
NEO, I thought that since the ECM signaled the igniter when to spark to control ignition timing, it might be going wacky and not send a signal for #1 and #2. I'll admit that I'm not sure about the explanation since ignition timing is figured off the #1 cylinder. I'm going to pull the plugs on #1 and #2 to be sure there is no spark showing up since I'm using the non-flash of the timing light to make that assumption. Then, I'll probably go get a new distributor cap and rotor.
Well, NEO. This is what's happened this AM. I pulled the #1 plug and put it back in the wire, grounded it to the block, and when I turned over the engine I saw spark. So, I cleaned the plug to make sure no anti-seize was causing problems and cleaned in the tube. I fired up the motor and pulled the plug wire to see how good the spark looked. As I was removing the wire from the tube, I noticed that sparks were coming out the side of the boot at the plug end and sparking over to the tube. I pulled the #2, and it was doing the same thing. To check to see if this was the problem, I wrapped the boots in electrical tape, reinserted them, and started the engine. It runs pretty decent now. So, I'm off to the parts store for wires, cap, and rotor. I can't believe they only have 8000 miles on them.
To make things more fun, I was again using my inductive timing light to check for spark on the wires. Now, it's acting weird and not showing spark on any of the cylinder except intermittently even though the car is running without a miss. Go figure.
I'll let you know what happens after I get the replacements.
The parts house gave me the wrong cap and wires. I knew I should have taken the old ones. They gave me the parts for a 2.0L (1991) instead of my 2.2L. O'Reilly has it listed wrong in their computer. It'll be Thursday before I get them and try them out. I'll let you know.
BTW, it would have affected the companion cylinder, but not #1 and #2; I believe the firing order is 1342, so if the igniter wiring is the problem it would have affected either 1 and 4 or 3 and 2.
N.E.O.
Last edited by new echo owner; 10-01-2008 at 09:04 PM.
Yep. 1342. So, I guess this means I don't have to worry about the igniter wiring.
I really appreciate y'alls interest and help. Hopefully, tomorrow will be the end of it when I get the parts on.
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