3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
why does my 96 camry overheat if i have a new radiator and thermostat,colant temp swi
my car overheats, but no steam coming out of radiator or resivor, just some gurgling. i bought the car used and it had a new radiator. i changed the thermostat and the coolant temerature switch.the fans are always on with ignition, so what could it be? some people say it could be a blown head gasket!, but i dont see antifreeze in the oil or oil in the antifreeze. somone else said it could be the water pump!. the heat in the car works great excep when the temperature gauge goes full hot, then the heat goes cold. the temperature gauge usually goes back to normal after approxamatly 30 secs or less then resumes all over again. also the problem usually goes away if i am driving not at idle. can anyone help? aso if the thermostat is good then would a bad water pump cause it to overheat? dont know if the water pump was ever replaced, it has 165k and a full tune up. the car performs very well except when overheating
Last edited by stevelobello; 10-03-2008 at 11:29 PM.
If your fans are on all the time (even at start up when cold?) then water pump jumps right up to the fore. Often when you get hot idling (usually due to malfunctioning fans) and then cool off when driving it is the improved air flow over the radiator. You could also speculate that a failing water pump might pump better at higher RPMs. I would think that if you could get the engine hot while sitting still and you could get it to cool down by revving it up while parked that this would eliminate air flow over the radiator and focus more on water flow in the engine and therefore, the water pump. An indication, not a guarantee.
I didn't notice if this was a V6 or an I4. V6's often have hydraulic controlled fans. Could be that...
Fans should cycle on and off. Sounds like you may have a problem here (or a previous owner overrode the setup so it would stay on all the time).
The heater running cold when the car is overheating is really weird to me. All I can conceive is some kind of vapor lock.
You hear gurgling at the coolant overflow tank. Do you hear this after the engine is shut off? How long after? This is the one thing that makes me suspect a blown head gasket. There are pressure tests for a blown head gasket and there is a chemical test to determine if exhaust gasses are getting into your coolant. If you are not loosing coolant a blown head gasket is unlikely.
Kep
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Often, it's the loose screw between the steering wheel and the driver's seat that needs to be fixed first!
Which temp switch did you replace? There are three sensors and switch (that I remember of); one for the EFI, one for the gauge and one for the fan.
Oil in coolant or coolant in oil are only two of the symptoms for headgaskets problem but not the only ones. Sometimes, coolant can enter the combustion chamber and got burnt off. Do a block test and a pressure test.
The heater situation and the gurgling noise indicate that you may have an air pocket in the cooling system. Have you check the water pump for leak? The water pump is behind the timing cover, but the 'weep' hole is right below the alternator above the A/C compressor, should be able to look at that area for coolant tracks with a flash light and a mirror. Also look between the head underneath the intake for any sign of coolant leak, shine a light in from the driver's side below the intake.
If the cooling fans are on with key on engine off, or cold engine, it is either the cooling fan switch is open or disconnected by someone trying to keep an overheating engine cool.
N.E.O.
Last edited by new echo owner; 10-08-2008 at 09:22 PM.
If the new radiator uses a LONG sensor adapter, that's likely your problem. The radiator ect switch needs significant immersion to promptly respond. ProLiance (after market radiator) Adapters, in my recent experience, preclude adequate immersion or act as a sensor heat sink. Make sure your ECT switch in the radiator is not affected by an adapter. If you pull the radiator switch connector and the fan runs, it's a call between sensor and any adapters. Any adapters lose. Be smart, get a radiator that accepts your standard equipment/sensors without modification.
My daughter's Ford Escort (180,890k miles) started overheating. I was also idling a little rough, but would smooth out at higher RPM's.
She was loosing coolant somewhere, but I could not find a leak below the car or under the hood. I would add coolant, but it would still overheat at highway speeds.
I checked the oil and saw no indication of coolant contamination. I had recently changed it and it appeared clear and clean,
I finally took of the radiator cap, with the engine cool and started the engine. Coolant blurbled right out of the radiator.
I finally figured that the head gasket was leaking exhaust gases into the cooling system, and coolant was leaking into the combustion chambers and being burned with the fuel charge (that explained the rough idle and slow lose of coolant).
I bought a well cared for, '98 Camry (that being why I lurk here) for her and limped her Escort to the recycle yard.
The heater situation and the gurgling noise indicate that you may have an air pocket in the cooling system. Have you check the water pump for leak? The water pump is behind the timing cover, but the 'weep' hole is right below the alternator above the A/C compressor, should be able to look at that area for coolant tracks with a flash light and a mirror. Also look between the head underneath the intake for any sign of coolant leak, shine a light in from the driver's side below the intake.
I would bet money on this - had it a few times when I was monkeying around with my old camry's cooling system and the air hadn't purged itself yet.
Important thing to remember is that taking it apart again will introduce more air....
__________________ Old and Busted: '84 Camry LE <2S-E>|| '89 Celica GT-S <3S-GE>|| '91 Camry LE <3S-FE>|| '95 Camry LE V6 <1MZ-FE>
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