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3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 10-08-2008, 07:37 AM   #1 (permalink)
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3rd Generation Turn the key, lose all power.

So last night I got in my car, turned the key and CLICK all the power died in the car. I had this happen once before, and when i took it to the shop they said the Starter had water in it, and they replaced my starter. Well, i took the ground off my battery and I would reconnect it and it would spark, but power would still be off in the car, so i would keep doing that, then finally the lights came on, turned the key and it went out again. So I did it again and once the power came on, i left it alone for a few seconds, then i just turned the key really hard and fast, and the car started......This morning the car started with no problems.

Any ideas? Could it be my cables connecting to my battery? The battery was replaced with the starter about 2 years ago when i was having this issue.
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Old 10-08-2008, 08:48 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Take apart the battery terminals and cables, and make sure that they are clean and tight, and have your battery test. Poor connection would cause th problem you are describing and it will also won't allow the battery to fully charge.

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Old 10-08-2008, 09:43 AM   #3 (permalink)
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^+1.

Same thing happened to me, it was worn out battery terminal connectors/posts.
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Old 10-08-2008, 12:17 PM   #4 (permalink)
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ok, ill check that out hopefully it wont give me any issues.
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Old 10-08-2008, 12:38 PM   #5 (permalink)
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if there is a spark you have a short somewhere. it sould be in you ignition wiring harness or your battery terminal cabels
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Old 10-08-2008, 06:32 PM   #6 (permalink)
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check
1 battery connections (do they look corroded? [clean with baking soda water and wire brush] or loose?)
2 battery voltage & load or drop when key is at start (should bearound 12V before starting, and not drop below like 10V or so)
3 fuses (check the MAIN 40A, ALT 100A, AM1 40A)
4 will it start by jumper cables? (if not, your battery may be low on acid solution if you have an old style battery, standard.. or if you have a gel battery [optima] then its just old maybe)

oh.. and water in your starter???!??!?!! lol, good one. its pretty much a totally sealed unit.
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Old 10-14-2008, 07:44 AM   #7 (permalink)
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yea its just a standard 660CCA battery, i didnt have any problems for a few days but this weekend has been a bitch! This morning i couldnt get the damn thing to start again, i finally hit the + post and the connector with an SOS pad this morning before i left for class. The car fired right up. Hopefully that fixes the issue.

Also, this started up again when i had to take out my battery to install my intake, the + post was pretty nasty, so i cleaned it off, but i didnt use anything special, just knocked all the crap off of it, so hopefully its fixed now since i used some steel wool
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Old 10-14-2008, 08:57 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sk8ersublime View Post
Also, this started up again when i had to take out my battery to install my intake, the + post was pretty nasty, so i cleaned it off, but i didnt use anything special, just knocked all the crap off of it, so hopefully its fixed now since i used some steel wool
Why not just replace the terminal,and clean the cable and post.

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Old 10-14-2008, 10:45 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I had the same problem this past May. I replaced the positive terminal clamp, negative wire including clamp, cleaned the battery terminals, and had the solenoid contacts in the starter replaced.

The car worked fine for a month, then the problem came back. For round #2 I had the alternator tested (it was fine), and I replaced the battery. The problem hasn't come back. The problem must have been a weak battery combined with bad connections on the terminals. If your battery is over, say, four years old, just replace it. Also be sure to pick up a battery terminal cleaner if you don't already have one, cost is about $2 from any auto supply place or Wal-Mart - a heavy brush that really gets the terminal / clamps clean.

Anyway, here were the prices I paid:

Negative wiring harness (OEM, includes new clamp): $31.69 *
Positive terminal clamp (OEM): $11.79 *
Starter rebuild (new contacts, clean brushes) at an auto electric shop: $25
Battery: $75 (approximate)

* from www.toyotapartsales.com , price doesn’t include shipping. If you do order from them, pick up some OEM oil filters at $3.90.

Last edited by Heat; 10-14-2008 at 10:47 AM.
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Old 10-14-2008, 02:10 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Well i have this splitter for my sub amp, which right now is unplugged because i rather have a working car...and i was letting the car get as much power as it could... Ive replaced it a few times before, and the battery isnt that old...but idk, i might invest in a optima. No problems since this morning and ive started up about 4 times.
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Old 10-14-2008, 07:19 PM   #11 (permalink)
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it could be that your terminals may be corroded...my car did the same, it was running it fine, i parked and went back to it after a few minutes it wouldnt start, i was like wtf!!! Opened the hood, and moved the cable a bit it sparked! went abck to teh car ti started, my negative terminal is full of crap! checj your terminals before doign anything. Get a voltmeter and check the battery if it was 12.6V its a good battery adn doesnt need changing, but the terminals might best of luck
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