3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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Hello everyone! I am needing your help with an intermittent issue. First the car. Its a 1993 LE 3VZ-FE with 137K on it. I recently had the timing belt, water pump replaced at 134K, fuel filter replaced at 135K, distributer o-ring replaced, induction cleaning (136K).
Prior to this problem starting I took it to a mechanic because of the smell of what I thought was fuel. He said the leak was coming from the fuel filter so he changed the fuel filter. That same day, a fuel leak from the gas tank started. It was around the seam. I took it back and had a shop repair the gas tank. Result no more fuel leak. He checked the fuel lines and found no problems.
However, I still have the smell of what I think is fuel, but I have been told there is an oil leak coming from the rear-main seal and its hitting on the exhaust pipe and that's creating the smell. Still working on this issue.
After the whole gas tank ordeal, the car will now stall at times. Generally its when the engine is cold and I'm taking off from a stop. There is no CEL. I took it to another shop and they checked it a could not find any issues. They check the plugs, wires, exhaust, cap/rotor and found everything to be in good shape. They did say the intake was dirty so they recommended the induction service (they used BG), so I had them do it. It ran fine for a few weeks, now the problem is starting again. When warm, the car runs fine (lacks a little power but I've read that is normal with the 3VZ-FE's). Again the problem tends to show up shortly after starting to drive (even if the temp gauge is at the mid-point). One other thing. Prior to stalling, if I hit the gas there is no power then it will stall. After the engine stalls, it will start right back up and run normally.
It sounds like the classic cracked 4" intake hose for these engines. That rubber hose gets brittle with age and heat, and cracks start to develop in its folds. Take it off your TB intake entirely and inspect it for holes all around by stretching it a bit too. You can temprarily repair it by wrapping electrical tape around it while waiting for a new one. If that looks ok, I would ispect all the other rubber hoses that comes off that one as well.
Also, another thing to check is the ECTS temp sensor. Another possibility is the EGR valve, but thesymptoms you describe don't quite match that.
I will take a look at the hose this evening. As far as the sensor goes, is there any way to check it or just replace it? Also, any possibility it could be the fuel pump or tranny? The tranny shifts smooth and at the normal RPM's and the fluid is nice and clean.
The ECT sensor, you can check it resistance to see if it correspond to the temperature that you are measuring it; However, since the sensor is at the back of the engine, you might feel like it is better off just to replace it.
Fuel pump or tranny, is possible but your symptom doesn't seem to fit; either one of them having problem would continue after the engine warms up.
Now I'm experiencing the problem when the engine is warm. I was driving yesterday in traffic and anytime I let off the accelerator the engine would stall.
I was also hearing some clicking noise..sounded like it was coming from under the dash.
I was able to drive it enough to take it to the mechanic and they are unable to duplicate the problem today. This is very frustrating.
Ended up taking my car to the Toyota dealership today. They ran a diagnostics on it and no codes came back. They told me it was the IAC valve and that would solve my problem. The total cost is $710 to replace the IAC.
Before I do this. What IF this doesn't fix my problem. Have I wasted $710 or since they diagnosed it and told me it would fix the problem, will they fix the "real" problem for no additional charge, or is this a pipe dream? I haven't run across this before with other cars.
While it was at the Toyota dealership they were able to get the car to stall. The tech sprayed some throttle body cleaner in it and it ran fine for a while. So when I got the car back home I've also sprayed TB cleaner through it (about half a can at various intervals) and the car seems to be running fine. I do continue to see some flux in the RPMs while driving though.
$710? What are they replacing, the whole throttle body?
You will probably have to ask them what happen if it doesn't fix your problem. Some repair shop will step up and take care of you, some won't and charge you additional.
The description you gave in your original post doesn't fit the symptoms of the IAC; the IAC won't cause lost of power. It will cause the engine to stall, but if you can keep the rpm up, it shouldn't stall.
I originally thinking IAC, but that's the only real diagnosis that I've been given. Besides what's been posted here I've also been told/read it could be the EFI relay, EGR, or distributer.
After taking notes as to when it occurs and over the past few days of it happening. It appears that it happens more frequently when the engine is warm. It's now doing it while driving down the road, just maintaining speed.
The $710 included install. It is $500 for the IAC itself and checking around that price is about right, not that much of a mark-up.
My thing is... I'm willing to pay that IF it fixes the problem. But I don't want to pay that and come to find out that's not it and I have to shell out another $300-$400 for something else.
I highly doubt it is your IAC. The V6 IAC's are fairly robust. It did not throw codes so the mechs are taking their best guess. If you really want to try another one, either go to the junkyard and pull one or buy a used one for $50 on Ebay: eg. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/92-Ca...mZ190237748655
Then just buy a new IAC gasket from Toyota and install it yourself. Worst case is you're out $50 and some of your time.
You are not going to solve this problem unless you or someone else are willing to do some troubleshooting or by throwing a lot of parts at it. You have not commented on any of the suggestions mentioned already, so I assume you are fixating on the IAC and doing nothing else. Test the easy things first, then move onto the ones that are harder or will cost money. A sticky EGR valve can cause this symptom also. If you start it up and it sound slike it wil stall, go tap the EGR valve with a wrench to see if you can get it to stop.
Since you have mentioned that the timing belt, distributor and fuel tank have been involved in repairs recently, it's possible one of those repairs has contributed to your current stalling problem. It's possible the timing belt was not installed correctly or maybe has jumped, or the new distributor cap or the rotor underneath is no good, or someone never seated the ignition wires back on properly, or maybe upset the timing by moving the distributor. Get your ignition timing checked again. As well, maybe the fuel tank repair killed an already weak fuel pump or knocked some crud loose and is clogging your fuel filter. Go have your fuel pressure tested if toyota did not speciically do this already. Maybe the fuel filter was replaced with the wrong one.
If you are willing to spend more time fiddling with it yourself to narrow down the possible causes before committing yourself, I am pretty sure there will be a lot of good people here who are willing to help you out with good suggestions.
Changed the ECT today and drove fine for 62 miles, then stalled again. There is now a tremendous gas smell coming from the car (engine area). I tested the EGR today (followed the instructions in the haynes manual), it tested fine.
Just one question. Could some people call the IAC the intake air control valve not the Idle air control valve? I'm assuming there is a difference.
As far as I know there is only one IAC, Idle Air Control, but there could be many interpretation of what it actually stands for. There is also IAT, Intake Air Temp.
Did you find out where the fuel smell is coming from? There is a fuel pulsation damper on the fuel rail at the right rear corner of the engine, if the calibration screw came out, it could leak fuel and cause fuel smell. There is a plastic cap on the end of it, remove it and check. It is a little difficult to get to but it is pretty common cause of fuel smell if you don't see any other fuel leak.
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93 3VZ-FE Stalling
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