1993 Camry No Start Problem

[denver_sc]

I did a bit of searching around and I couldn't find a "no start" problem quite like the one I'm having with my wife's car.

You may be able to tell that I'm not a real big car person, but everybody here helped me out last time. My wife drove the car to work, and called me to come pick her up because her car wouldn't start. The way she described it (turning over, but not all the way) I assumed that she had left the lights on, etc. and threw the jumper cables in the back of my car. When I got there, I hooked up my battery to hers, and tried to jump it. What it sounds like is that it's allmost starting. It turns over, and the best way that I can describe it is that it's turning over but right before it "catches" and starts running it doesn't and keeps turning over. Is there anything to perform some quick checks on before I have it towed?

Thanks for any and all help.

[new echo owner]

Check for spark? Is it turning over fairly good?

N.E.O.

[ghettosled]

since it cranks, there are three things you need for the engine to run - fuel, spark and air. as long as the air filter assembly isnt clogged (which i seriously doubt) you can rule out air. fuel pumps can die, but not usually at start up. my money is on spark as well. pull a plug, ground it and crank the motor over to see if you have a spark.

[Kep]

Pretty much agree with above. Also go back into the Gen 1/2 forum and redo your searches. They have had several of these and the engines are similar enough to check it out.

Be prepared to go through a lot of diagnostics. Be patient. Keep notes about your tests. Check back with things that you learn. There are a lot of things that can be involved. Do the simple checks first and then go to the more difficult. Start looking for junk yards with your model Camry. Toward the end you may need to try substituting the ECU and/or the igniter and they're a lot cheaper at the yard. But there are several things to check before that.

Luck,
Kep

[djb2]

My guess is that you have a failed ignition coil.

Here are some easy diagnostics:

Turn the ignition on and listen at the engine for the faint sound of the fuel pump pushing gas through the system.

Remove one of the spark plug connectors and use a screwdriver to check the spark while cranking. If there is no spark, or it is weak and yellow, the problem is likely the ignition coil or, less likely, the ignitor module. It's remotely possible that it's a stuck contact button in the distributor cap, but you won't be that lucky.

A new coil costs $50-$70 aftermarket -- you should stay away from used because the originals are known to fail. A new ignitor was $471 from Toyota when I checked last year. A known-good used ignitor costs about $20 and will work as well as a new part.


There are three common sources of no spark on all cylinders:
- failure of the coil,
- failure of the ignition control module ("ignitor"), or
- the button contact in the distributor cap is sticking.

The ignitor is an expensive part to replace (list is over $400), and
some less-common failures are difficult to diagnose. The common
failures are easily diagnosable since there is a tachometer output and
engine computer gets a feedback signal indicating that the ignitor
thinks it has triggered a spark. Indications that it's still good are if
- the tach jumps when cranking the engine, and
- if there are no engine computer error codes.


The ignitor is mounted on the left strut tower where it's easily seen,
but you'll need to unclip the air filter cover to remove it.

The coil is less expensive, but it's inside the distributor and thus
more difficult to replace. You'll need to remove the air filter cover
then the distributor cap to test the coil. The primary should measure
less than 1 ohm between the screw terminals, and the secondary should
measure between 9K and 15K ohms between either screw terminal and where
the distributor cap button makes contact. A resistance lower than 9K
ohms indicates the coil has at least partially failed and should be
replaced.

Tools to replace coil and distributor parts
#2 phillips screwdriver for coil mounting screws
7mm (1/4") nut driver for coil terminals
8mm driver (or #2 phillips) for distributor cap screws
10mm socket (or #3 phillips) for air duct clamp
12mm socket and 3"+ extension for distributor hold-down bolts
12mm open-end wrench for throttle cable
Small screwdriver or plastic tool to
Remove distributor o-ring
Release plug wires from distributor cap

None of these parts, with the possible exception of the distributor cap,
will come with a new or rebuilt distributor.

[denver_sc]

Thanks for the help, guys! I was checking and some of the ignition wires looked bad and I was getting no spark, so I'm guessing that's the problem. I ordered a new set. I'll check in after I replace it.

I appreciate the information on the next steps, as well. I've got the

I took the opportunity to do a spark plug replacement. I think they were in the car when we bought it; no telling how old they were.

[new echo owner]

I've got the......?

You may want to check your coil and pickup coil too. Will you be replacing the cap and rotor too? If it is six, it is very common that the rotor burns through and short to gorund, causing no spark at the wires.

N.E.O.

[denver_sc]

Originally Posted by new echo owner

I've got the......?

You may want to check your coil and pickup coil too. Will you be replacing the cap and rotor too? If it is six, it is very common that the rotor burns through and short to gorund, causing no spark at the wires.

N.E.O.

I will be replacing the cap as I ordered it (it appeared there might be a small crack and I found a cap for $10, why not?). It's the 4, not the 6. I haven't considered replacing the rotor... yet.

[denver_sc]

Ok, I replaced the distributor cap, the rotor, the sparkplug wires, the sparkplugs and the ignition coil (which ohmed out "bad"). I'm still having starting problems and am really confused. In the 93 2.2 L 4 cyl, is it possible to get the distributor aligned with the cam shaft off by 180 degrees? If so, what would the resulting startup be like?

What I'm getting now is a series of slow cranks followed by about a half second of really quick cranking and then more slow cranking. Any ideas as to what this might be? I'm going to check and make sure that I put everything back together correctly tomorrw (when I can see) but the other thing that I'm considering is a clogged fuel filter. Is there any possibility of that?

[new echo owner]

Did you test the pick up coil in the distributor?

As for the distributor install 180 off, no! The slot is off-set.

How many miles on the car? And when was the last time you had a timing belt done? Beside the ignition system, a jumped timing belt would also cause starting problem.

N.E.O.

[denver_sc]

Originally Posted by new echo owner

Did you test the pick up coil in the distributor?

As for the distributor install 180 off, no! The slot is off-set.

How many miles on the car? And when was the last time you had a timing belt done? Beside the ignition system, a jumped timing belt would also cause starting problem.

N.E.O.

Yeah, I tested the pick up coil. It ohmed out and looked ok. We've had the car since 182K miles, not sure when the timing belt was last done. Is there any way to check it short of going in through the passenger wheel well and going through all that rot?

[new echo owner]

Take off the upper timing cover to check the timing belt, or check the dist rotor to make sure it is turning when you are cranking.

N.E.O.

[denver_sc]

Originally Posted by new echo owner

Take off the upper timing cover to check the timing belt, or check the dist rotor to make sure it is turning when you are cranking.

N.E.O.

I checked to make sure that the rotor was turning before replacing everything... it was. However, I have heard of rare instances where the timing belt is no good but the rotor is still turning. I probably am going to replace the fuel filter and then have it towed, I don't have much more time to screw around with it. Any other suggestions?

[new echo owner]

Do this simple check to see if the timing belt has jumped timing; line up the crank on 0 TDC, and then check to see where the dist rotor i pointing. It should be either close to #1 or #4 cylinder, if it is not, it has indeed jump timing. Then the next thing to do is take the timing cover off to check the timing belt.

N.E.O.