3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
For the past few days my Camry has been giving me trouble starting up in the morning. The reason I think it is something to do with the battery is because it just does not crank. But the battery has charge because all the lights on the dashboard come on fine when I turn the key to the 1st position. But when I try to crank, nothing happens. But after 5-6 tries, it suddenly cranks and starts.
One thing I have observed is that when I turn the head lights on, all the lights on the dash board are fine but the lights on the music system become very very dim.
The battery terminals are squeaky clean. No rust or salts.
I did take it to the mechanic to check out the battery and he says there is lot of corrosion on the battery. And it is leaking charge from the midcap. He also mentioned that the only way to fix it is to change the battery.
Can somebody confirm the I would indeed have to change the battery ?
Battery terminals are brand new (about 3 months old) - I had to change the terminals because of a lot of rust/salts.
I did check the terminals for tightness, and yes they are attached well to the terminals.
Any other reasons why the car would not crank at the first attempt, but eventually will crank after giving it some time in on position and at 3rd / 4th attempt?
If the battery has checked good, the next most likely culprit is the starter, or more specifically, the starter solenoid, which is integral to the starter. The solenoid can be replaced, but it's not a lot more money to replace the whole starter. Easier too.
My Avalon's starter was acting like yours a while back, getting worse as time passed. Replacing the starter fixed it.
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1992 Camry LE, V6 (3VZ-FE), ABS brakes, 330k miles, dark emerald pearl, owned since new.
1996 Avalon XLS, ABS brakes, moonroof, white, acquired w/ 139k miles, now at 261k.
2001 Yamaha FZ1, Ivan's jet kit, resprung all around, Ohlins in the rear, Race Tech cartridge emulators in the forks, 45k miles.
I'm confused. You say the battery is squeaky clean yet you say the mechanic says that the battery has a lot of corrosion and a leak. Which is correct?
Just some random thoughts:
If the battery is good and the starter is good you may have a bad cable or connection. Not only does the battery connection between the terminal and post need to be clean and tight but also where the cable connects to the terminal needs to be clean (actually just had to do this today on my girlfriend's Nissan.) and where it connects to the starter needs to be clean. If the cable itself has corroded underneath the insulation it too can cause excessive resistance. You might be able to run a resistance check on the starter cable or you might substitute another cable for the starter cable.
Not as likely is the ignition switch itself.
Have you had the starter checked? (Though usually starters beginning to fail have problems when they're hot, not cold.) If it makes a single click when you turn the key and it does not start this is usually an indication of bad contacts.
Luck,
Kep
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Often, it's the loose screw between the steering wheel and the driver's seat that needs to be fixed first!
The exact question I asked the Sear Auto Center manager is that I can see to my eyes that the terminals are clean and secured well to the battery terminal. Then where is the corrosion? He just babbled something and then said "battery is leaking charge from the midcaps. the only solution is to change the battery". Since I was not satisfied with his explanation, I decided to get my car back (paid him $12 for the battery test).
Next : I will get the starter/solenoid checked. Any thoughts on how much this costs?
What you mention is exactly what is happening - in the morning (or for that matter after the car has been parked for a long time - cold start) when I turn the ignition key, it just clicks and nothing happens. All the lights on the dashboard are nice and bright which tells me that the battery has not lost charge overnight. So maybe some other connection is loose (other than the battery terminals).
There isn't a clear cut way to test the starter contact, if you test the start when it is warm or out of the car, it may test good. You will actually have to physically remove the cover to inspect the contacts.
When I had a similar problem on a Ford, it was the terminal at the starter solenoid that was corroded. Check and tighten all connections at the starter. When cold, metal "shrinks" and "expands" when hot. My starter connections were loose when cold.
Be careful to remove the cable from the battery first.
Then where is the corrosion? He just babbled something and then said "battery is leaking charge from the midcaps. the only solution is to change the battery". Since I was not satisfied with his explanation, I decided to get my car back (paid him $12 for the battery test).
He might have been telling you your battery has an small internal short. That is, two adjacent cells are shorted, and discharging them selves. The electrical system will recharge it so that it's capable of restarting, but if it's left sitting long enough, it'll discharge itself to the point the voltage isn't enough to do the job.
Do you have a voltmeter? If so, check your battery voltage in the morning, or anytime the car hasn't been run for a quite a while. If you've got a dead cell, it'll check ~10 volts.
I had this problem with a 1 year old battery long ago. Got a new one under warranty.
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1992 Camry LE, V6 (3VZ-FE), ABS brakes, 330k miles, dark emerald pearl, owned since new.
1996 Avalon XLS, ABS brakes, moonroof, white, acquired w/ 139k miles, now at 261k.
2001 Yamaha FZ1, Ivan's jet kit, resprung all around, Ohlins in the rear, Race Tech cartridge emulators in the forks, 45k miles.
"when I turn the ignition key, it just clicks and nothing happens."
1 click or multiple rapid clicks? 1 click usually indicates worn starter solenoid contacts. Multiple rapid clicks usually indicates a weak battery due to any number of reasons; bad battery, defective alternator, or loose alternator belt.
Another test for worn starter solenoid contacts is to have someone hold the key in the start position while you go under the hood and tap the starter with a small hammer or a wrench. Don't try to break the thing, but give it a good tap. If the starter now turns you most likely have worn starter solenoid contacts.
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