Gen 4 1mz 5sp gear lever movement - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums


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3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 10-22-2008, 06:20 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Gen 4 1mz 5sp gear lever movement

Hi Newbie's first post...99 1mx 5sp

Who knows if gear lever movement is 'normal' under and off load...
Is it a worn mount, can it be modified... made solid.

seems to rock about a lot...
so the motor must be rocking allso.

the 'dogbone' mount looks good...
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Old 10-22-2008, 09:41 PM   #2 (permalink)
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not sure if it does with the stock rubber shifter bushings, but mine moves a bit during on and off throttle...and I have a couple of solid mounts, and the others are reinforced with polyurethane


as for figuring out if your engine mounts are going....with the hood open, open the trottlebody with your hand and rev hard...if the engine jumps and rocks too much, then some of the moutns are going. quite often, it can be the rear mount
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Old 10-22-2008, 10:01 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Your solid mounts...
are they custom truly solid without rubber...

A better way to check mounts...
is gently slip cluth with brake on and watch for 'excessive'engine rock...
than rev the guts out of the motor, to watch the engine torque, without load...

Is there anyone with a standard set of mounts,
does the lever rock about like 'too much'...
maybe it's normal...if so
what a lousy set-up.
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Old 10-23-2008, 12:18 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I've got a solid steel torque rod to replace the transmission gas strut mount, and I also have a solid steel rod as a mount to replace my dogbone

my front engine mount is as is, while my transmission mount and rear mount has been reinforced with polyurethane. Not too sure how much of a difference the reinforcement of the rear mount did, since it couldn't pack much polyurethane into it, but the transmission mount became ALOT more solid. between all of this, my wheel hop and engine movement is almost non-existent.


as for slipping the clutch, you could do that....but it's not good for the clutch. and for me, personally, I have a stage 3 clutch, so....there isn't really such a thing as slipping the clutch without just having it grab and stall the car lol.

and yes, for sure...load is better than no load, but in most circumstances, revving the engine itself will give you a pretty good indication of what's going on. The real way to do it of course, is to see the engine movement on a dyno, but if we all had the money to do that, we wouldn't be driving camrys would we, eh? lol
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Old 10-24-2008, 12:25 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Hey thanks reply...
Yeah slipp was the wrong word, i meant lightly engage - disengage... like that u know
but I was too lazy to explain properly...

Ok so solids are possible, no bad vibes felt in the cab??
I find the 'rock' takes away from smooth delivery...

What clown would spend heaps of money on car... it is just a mechanical toy / a - b delivery device...
Any idiot can spend heaps of money... nothing clever about that...
Clever is having plenty of challenge and joy for little money on say a Camry...
The big spender will never be satisfied very long because the growth is never ending.
My $5000 spend gives me 9/10ths happiness.'
and dynos are pretty cheap really... if that's what it takes... say 2-3 hours of my pay is all.

Lots of posts, u real deal passionate about it
good one.
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Old 10-24-2008, 11:18 AM   #6 (permalink)
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^ well, that's why a lot of us do what we do....just to stand out and surprise ppl a bit


as for vibrations....from the tranny torque rod, a bit more vibrations, but with a 5-speed, it's not really an issue cuz either the clutch is down or the gear's in neutral when stopped anyway

but for the dogbone mount....when cold....you can hear the vibrations a bit at idle, and more so when the car is under load. We had buffered everything with polyurethane and rubber washers, and it seemed to do the trick until the weather got cold and the washers hardened. Now, basically for the first 15min or so of driving you can hear and feel the vibrations. But once the engine bay has warmed up, it's quite bearable.
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Old 10-24-2008, 06:57 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Ok... Imz pretty smooth
or u using 3mz... hey champ u got any links or ideas about modding the 1mz, appart from VIa, whic is a waste of time or exhaust mods, which are only any use at high revs, or noise, which is a bit of a wank...
I'm more into the real deal, lowering the torque band...etc
ps What isnspired 8 eye pussie... is it to use the word pussie as in female genitalia and so it a sexual mating thing or some asia reference...
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Old 10-24-2008, 07:39 PM   #8 (permalink)
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ha, yeah...that's exactly what my name means


as for real power on engines...the only real effective modification for power is forced induction- either supercharge or turbo charge. people have also had some pretty good luck using nitrous.

and if you want more low-end torque or just easier power to get to, you can also think about swapping your tranny for the e-153 from an mr2, which would be a direct drop in replacement. It has a shorter final gear, so the gears are shorter and you'll get to the power that you want faster
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Old 10-24-2008, 07:51 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Cool reply... must be a lower geared box
I find ist too low, and second good for winding out...
I'm ok with the box, the motor is the prob, but it's ok...
'power' come 'on' at say 4K wicth should be there at say 2k... but hey that the way it is.

I was thinking say, cam swap or engine timing mod... more advance, more lift and duration type thing
I heard solarguy.com good for info..
biggies like froced induction, I'd just buy a different car... with more Kw.

Just a dinky family car after all...
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