Radiator Leaking AGAIN!!!

[3rd Gen 3 Owner]

Okay, here's the short story. Replaced the original factory rad with one from NAPA back in June. Everything seemed fine until early Sept, when I smelled antifreeze and discovered the inside of the drivers side fan shroud was wet with it and had flung it all over that side of the engine compartment. I couldn't find an obvious hole or crack, it seemed to be seeping out around where the tank met the metal. Took it in and got a warranty exchange, put it in and was find until tonight. Same story, just not as much antifreeze sprayed around the engine. The overflow tank was nearly empty, with some heavy splatter on the inside of the splash shield and once again the inside of the driver's side fan shroud is wet with coolant. I cannot figure out where it is coming from, I replaced both hoses and all clamps. The upper hose clamp on the rad is as tight as I can get it with one hand. The hose itself seems dry. Has this happened to anyone else with NAPA radiators? I really don't want to replace this thing a third time!

[BMR]

I replaced the rad in my Camry with a NAPA unit 7 years ago at 161k miles. No probs with it. Of course, it's possible they've changed suppliers since then.

[Dave's]

Just a thought on another possibility. Have you replaced the cap? Whether you have or not, confirm it's the correct pressure. (Even a pound or two per square inch can add up to a lot of extra pressure on your system.)

[kenwoodrunner]

just like to think of every thing! try sampling the antifreeze for exhaust gasses, i believe it is a piece of paper that changes color if exhaust gasses are present. mike

[davemac2]

you may want to try to use a dye in the coolant an a uv light to see if you can trace it. You can also try to drive it on the highway for 25 mins and then shut it off and open the hood and check it closely.

I've had terrible luck with rads. I'm on my third aftermarket one in 3 years. The first two were from radiatorbarn.com. Copper rads. Never again. Quality control on their stuff seems really bad. The first one leaked at the top of the rad where the curvature of the stamping was greatest. ie. bad stamping. My last one is an Al-plastic chinese one off Ebay. Build quality looks great. 1/2 the cost of the radiatorbarn ones. We shall see.

dave mc

[Eye8Pussies]

you have to realize that even with aftermarket rads, there are about 3 grades of quality....and it'll come down to the supplier.


I have a rad guy that I go to who does all aftermarket rads, condensers, heatercores, intercoolers, etc, and he also does custom sized, custom finned, etc. ones that he welds up himself

he doesn't carry any of the bottom grade rads, but carries the middle and top grades. regardless, the quality of them is that they won't leak, but the middle grade cooling isn't quite as good as oem, while the top grade has even better cooling than oem (and I can attest to that, even with boost). but the prices between the two are a good $40 or so if I remember correctly.

So, go back and check to see what "grade" you got from napa. Because I believe that napa also carries different grades of parts for everything that they carry and order- usually determined by the price. If you got the most expensive one that they carried, I'd be surprised that they keep on leaking or have defects, but if you got the most expensive one I'd be surprised

[3rd Gen 3 Owner]

Thanks for all the quick replies everybody, I worked a 12 hour shift today so I haven't had a chance to mess with it yet. Dave's, I did in fact replace the cap the first time I replaced the rad, sorry I neglected to mention it. It's rated for 13lbs of pressure, not sure if that is correct for the 4cyl as I haven't had time to look it up yet. I've decided to try replacing the upper hose even though it's new, just because it's a cheap fix and I think that may be the general area that it's coming from. I had an issue with the lower hose leaking until I cranked it down, I think from some mold flashing on the hose nipple. The top hose is so tight that it's squeezing the rubber out between the slats in the clamp, so I don't think that's an issue. As for what grade I got from NAPA, I'll have to look into that. They didn't give me any other option than what I bought, and I didn't ask. Davemac2, do you by chance remember the Ebay seller you purchased your rad from? I may either look into getting my money back and getting one of those, or seeing if a shop can fix this one. Even if it's on my own dime, I really am tired of replacing this thing LOL!

[davemac2]

Originally Posted by 3rd Gen 3 Owner

Davemac2, do you by chance remember the Ebay seller you purchased your rad from? I may either look into getting my money back and getting one of those, or seeing if a shop can fix this one. Even if it's on my own dime, I really am tired of replacing this thing LOL!

here you go:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/92-96...1%7C240%3A1318

dave mc

[3rd Gen 3 Owner]

Thanks Dave, I appreciate the link. I was unable to procure a hose today, the NAPA I stopped at on the way to work informed me that the only store that has one is out by the airport. Unfortunately, I don't get off work until 10:30pm, so looks like I'll be trying somewhere else tomorrow. I also inquired about other rad options while I was there, they do have another one from a company that only makes import replacement parts. The cost is $192. Probably better than the $109 one I've been buying, but I'm not quite there yet. Further updates to follow.

[toyomoho]

One issue with mail order radiators appears to be shipping damage. The box can appear OK but the radiator gets bounced around and as such solder joints break.

Purchased a CSF copper/brass radiator having this problem. Finally after re-soldering ever seam the radiator now appears leak free.

CSF appears to have used the least amount of solder possible. Of course no warranty is offered as CSF does not warrant radiators unless they have been "professionally" installed.

I would expect better quality and support from a $150 radiator.

The many $99 dollar plastic radiators purchased locally and installed for friends are still leak free after years of use.

[3rd Gen 3 Owner]

Okay, here's a quick update. I just got done putting the new hose on, if nothing else at least it's made in the USA, unlike the first one, which was made in Mexico. Anyway, when I went to unbolt the splash shield, I discovered another puddle on the passenger side, which I am pretty sure came from where the lower hose connects to the t-stat housing. In addition, there was a small amount under the lower hose port on the rad, so now I am thinking it may not be the rad after all. I checked on the pressure of the cap, 13lbs is what everybody recommends. Not knowing what else to try tonight, I sanded down that mold flashing on the lower hose port, and loosened and then re-tightened all the hoses and clamps. I made a point not to crank them down too hard in case I might have been squeezing the hose so much it was distorting and leaking that way. (Is that even possible?) Re-filled the rad and let it idle for about 15min, let the upper hose get warm, ran the A/C to make sure the fans are working ok, no leaks. I'll take it for a drive tomorrow, and see what happens. Any ideas as to why I'm apparently leaking from 3 of the 4 hose connections? It can't be from them being loose, I actually stripped one of the clamps when tightening it down, hence me leaving them a little looser tonight. Somehow, I feel this isn't over yet...

[3rd Gen 3 Owner]

Well, here's the deal. After replacing the upper hose with a new one from a different manufacturer, that leak ceased. However, after loosening and re-tightening the lower hose at both ends, I was still getting serious leakage. I didn't have another lower hose, but I did have a bag of clamps. So I doubled them up and cranked them down hard.

After 2 days of driving, no leaks so far. I still think that first rad had a problem, but I'm blaming these leaks square on the hoses. I purchased them from Advance Auto, no brand on them but the upper was made in Mexico, while the lower in the US. The upper was about 2 inches too long and much thicker than the lower, I couldn't even get the stock clamps around it. The newer hose was from O'reillys, made in the US by Gates. It was the right size, normal thickness, no trimming needed. I bought a new lower hose from them too, but as this is currently not leaking I am really tempted to leave it alone. I'll be doing some extended highway driving tomorrow and if it doesn't leak I'll probably just stick with it as is. Thanks everybody for their opinions and advice. It's always good to know you have a place to go in a pinch for independent ideas. Take care out there

A.

[3rd Gen 3 Owner]

I really though I had this licked, but the other night I noticed that once again my upper and lower hoses are leaking where they attach to the new radiator. My latest theory is that the new rad from NAPA(like the previous one) lacks a "lip" on the edge of the attachment point. They are more or less smooth, and straight. I found a page on a hot rod website where a guy was having this same problem, but with a copper coolant line, and once he soldered a bead around the lip the leak stopped. As the rad is plastic, this isn't an option for me, but I was thinking of wrapping a bunch of teflon tape around the end to make a ridge that hopefully will seal. Is this feasible? I know you can't use that tape with tranny fluid, but those hoses aren't leaking (and coincidentally, have a flare at the end of the fitting). I have 2 clamps on the lower hose, tightened as much as I dare without stripping them out. At this point, I just don't understand why this is happening. I replaced the rad in my jeep years ago and it was an afternoon project that never gave me another problem. Has anyone heard of this happening before?

[davemac2]

Are you sure the pressure in your cooling system isn't being pressurized by a head gasket leak? What is the release pressure on teh cap? 16PSI? It has to be excessive pressure or the hose is not fitting tight on the rad outlet and inlets. Maybe try to make a presure gauge tool fitted to an old cap. Take the center seal part off the cap and drill a hole for an air hose coupler or pipe fitting. You can also try a smear of RTV on the rad sides before installing the hoses.

dave mc

[new echo owner]

Are you leaking from the radiator side of the hose or the engine side of the hose? The picture you had posted with the double clamps was for the engine side of the hose.

N.E.O.