$300 (more like $600) '94 Camry LE 210K mi. a good deal? - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums


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3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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View Poll Results: Best option for me & my family is:
Yep, buy and fix it up as planned, keep under $600 total. Punt & sell if needed. 6 54.55%
Yes, buy and fix 'er up as much as needed (e.g. fix the engine mount right away too). 5 45.45%
No, better deals out there. Once you buy it, you'll be pot committed. 0 0%
Voters: 11. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 10-23-2008, 11:31 PM   #1 (permalink)
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3rd Generation $300 (more like $600) '94 Camry LE 210K mi. a good deal?

My first post here. I just need to apologize in advance that this is a really long post, with lots of details on the impression of my co-worker friend's car. Originally, I was just helping him to sell it, but now I'm becoming a potential buyer when my wife heard about the deal since we are in fact trying to get rid of my wife's high maintenance Volvo. My wife will then use my current '92 MB 190E and I will use this Camry. We can probably have a couple weeks of overlapping time to have 3 cars till I fix up this Camry.


I don't have any bias against older car or higher mileage car... I know it takes proper maintenance and $$$ to upkeep the car to drive till such high mileage. A list of my past & current rides http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...37#post2530937 So, considering it's a running Camry, it really tempts me into buying it. I'll explain further down there, but it'll cost about $600 to really be driving this car.


Being an Asian and hearing all the good things about Camry in my life, I've always wanted to own one. I now get a chance to join the community with this $300 deal from my co-worker (he bought a new car and didn't have any use of it for the past 5 months, he just lend it to his ex (now no use for it). The main reason for this purchase is to get a somewhat reliable car and definitely want low maintenance and low repair cost. I like and have been doing a good bit of DIY for my previous and current rides, mainly around the context of fluid changes, parts replacement, simple fixes (usually MacGyver style to save money)...


The biggest split decision maker here is not from the 7 PROs & 11 CONs (I'll list them below)... it is how high the mileage it has yet how well it serves the purpose of a car: smooth idle, drives straight, good steering response, unknown highway performance & shifting (not tested in high speed as tag expired and we just didn't wanna risk it). 2 negatives that I felt : Some subtle "flapping" noise (not from any worn belt that I could see) front wheels of frontal part of the car... It sounds like one flap per rotation of the wheel but not sure. A little vibration whenever I put it in reverse, still move fine though.


PROs:
1) Ok-good driving conditions except the 2 negatives that I stated above. So it still serves well as a car, which is primarily what I need without the high repair bill.
2) 3 yr of the 3rd gen/model of camry (while it's still flagship of Toyota sedan before '95 Avalon exists)... love the cheap and easily found parts
3) Good braking (new brake pads & rotor from Jan. 2008, alignment done also)
4) 2 newer front tires from Mar. 2007 10K mi. ago (the other 2 needs replacement to pass inspection my guess)
5) Ok-good on gas. Yes, I know by book it's only 21/28 for AT. It's still better than 22MPG that I average on my Volvo on premium.
6) Major tune up ~$300 done by a trusted Camry specialist about 6 months ago (new air filter, fuel filter, sp, sp wires, distributor cap etc., oil change) but then drove for less than 1k miles before it started sitting in his new apt. while he bought a new car.
7) Only $300 to buy. Realistically another $300 to make it legally and safely drivable.


CONS:
1) Mysterious subtle/minor "flapping" noise from frontal part of the car/wheel.
2) Some vibration when put in Reverse.
3) ABS light on (My co-worker stated it came on like 2 years ago after he put on an audio system form Best Buy. Those dudes told him to drive for a couple days and it should go away but never did. He's way to lazy to follow up with them. In North Carolina, I heard from a mechanic that it would still pass inspection with ABS light on).
4) Broken Driver Side Mirror housing (mirror is okay, just need some MacGyver style fix to get it to stay, and then pass inspection)
5) Many fluid changes needed to be topped (coolant and washer fluid way low, power steering & brake fluid a bit low too, ATF dipstick shows over the max marks when checking with car warmed up & running... ATF color looks kind of light-brown-ish rather than red-ish... engine oil level and color was good). No leaks at all though, very dry under the hood.
6) Northern car... rust throughout exhaust system. He replaced the flex pipe Jun. 2007. I can only imagine how hard it was for the welder to weld it to other rusted pipes.
7) Driver seat (bud area) torn. Otherwise, ok-old leather seats. All seats still movable.
8) Only Driver side windows open (auto down smooth, but need to forcefully pull the button up to get the window up). All other windows inoperable.
9) Need a new battery. Current battery probably a couple years old, no info on it. The car has been sitting for about 5 months and today when we jumped it, it started up fine, drove it within parking lot for 15 minutes or so... turn it off, couldn't start back up.
10) Hood latch kind of broken... It'll open and close, but upon pulling switch under steering column, need to raise the hood manually to reach the latch switch. Then, the hood won't hold up by itself, it's like the hydraulic or the bars just didn't stay up bcoz it's too old.
11) 210,000 miles! The highest I've had was a '87 Toyota Supra with 244K mi. (w/ already rebuilt engine, original AT) and a '86 Honda CRX with 188K mi. (original engine & smooth stick shift). I love Japanese quality and I do believe them... but let's not forget I have no idea how the car was maintain since it was purchased as a "college student" car and my co-worker must have beat it up pretty well. It just lasted a little over fours years for him... now I'm playing a role of a dare-devil-tester.


To sum it up, I'm a realist; even my co-worker will let it go for $300, realistically I'll be putting in another $300 or so (2 tires, 1 battery, wiper blades, fluid changes, title & license plate & registration, inspection...) right of the bat to be able to drive safely.


My question is that will it worth $600 of my money to test the water and see if this car will last before any major repair hits? Does the fact that Engine Mount needed replacement and vibration in reverse mean anything (tranny failure)?


Thanks for any frank opinions and every short comments counts too. I have 1 day to decide before he decide to donate it (coz his apt. office threatens to tow it next week and he is really too lazy to sell despite he put in about).

-Henry

Last edited by LittleCamryLE; 10-23-2008 at 11:53 PM. Reason: just adding a link & my name
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Old 10-23-2008, 11:59 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Regardless wheather it's drivable or not at the moment, that big stack of metal is sure worthy alot more than $300, go for it men.
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Old 10-24-2008, 01:01 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I'd say go for it. All of the problems/cons you listed can be fixed easily by yourself. In the end, you'll be left with a nice reliable car that you can keep or sell for a couple thousand dollars.
As for your question regarding the transmission, the tranny in our cars are pretty much rock solid.
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Old 10-24-2008, 01:18 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tran.man48 View Post
I'd say go for it. All of the problems/cons you listed can be fixed easily by yourself. In the end, you'll be left with a nice reliable car that you can keep or sell for a couple thousand dollars.
As for your question regarding the transmission, the tranny in our cars are pretty much rock solid.
U heard the man, "Nothing is impossible with enough money and beer"
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Old 10-24-2008, 01:22 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tran.man48 View Post
... All of the problems/cons you listed can be fixed easily by yourself ...
Thanks for reminding me... now I'm so psyched about this whole idea of owning a high mileage yet should-be-reliable Camry, I forget that almost half of the CONs will be gone once I drop in that additional $300 that I plan to spend on bringing it back to life/safety zone. Now, that still leaves 2 concerns:

1) For my lack of details now, the "flapping" noise still is a mystery though... if I don't have it solved, it'll limit my ability to sell it (backup plan).

2) What about engine mount? I called the trusted Camry specialist shop owner, he told me while the car was there for the major tune up, they recommended getting the engine mount fix. I didn't have a chance to ask him to elaborate how bad it needs and how much he charge for it. Is engine mount something I can wait or omit without it damaging other things? Could that be causing that strange "flapping" sound?

Thanks!
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Old 10-24-2008, 01:29 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I just looked up some parts cost... I thought I was dreaming for a second. Just to start:
1) tranny filter kit for $10.99 to $19.99 @ AdvanceAutoParts website...
2) decent fram "extra guard" oil filter for $3.99...
3) a side mirror is only $40...

And I bet many many other things are dirt cheap and low requirement too. Oh man, what have I been doing with all my money in these past few years on the Euro cars... I literally drain my pockets & saving account for my Audi (e.g. $700 part only for one fuel pump assembly) before my current Volvo & MB. Gees, maybe Camry is indeed very affordable to own
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Old 10-24-2008, 01:34 AM   #7 (permalink)
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As u mentioned the "flapping noise" occur while the front wheels are on rotation, so u should be looking at the suspension set up. FYI, Vibration is a common problem in this model, especially on R gear.
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Old 10-24-2008, 09:23 PM   #8 (permalink)
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glad to hear that the minor vibration in "R" is normal. that doesn't bother me at all as it won't cause anything close to fatal accident due to minor vibration only in "R" that i feel for couple seconds.

when it comes down to suspension, that could be fatal in the worst case. that's what i would punt on a car if anything serious starting to fall apart. e.g. my wife's volvo wagon was pulling to the right and starting to have vibration over ~55 mph... that made me have an alignment specialist do alignment for $70 (as to dealership for $240). then at that time, the mechanic showed me and i could easily swing the right front wheel back and forth (3 & 9 old clock position) free play for almost an inch... bad ball joint could potentially cause us loosing control of the vehicle or that wheel. mostly due to parts, replacing both left and right front ball joint and 4-wheel alignment set me back almost $500. note that it didn't include the control arm or other suspension parts, just ball joint. within 2 days, the vehicle to pull the the right again. i went back to the mechanic and check, the wheels didn't have any play at all (good) but the camber setting already changes by itself from -.3 to .8 and -.3 to .35 on the front wheel (over 1 full degree in 2 days!). he set the camber back to factory default once again and the car drives fine now. it's just a scary sign that things might be starting to fall apart there on the 7-year-old volvo. that recent repair experience triggers me to think i began to "invest/pot-commit" to fix the volvo.

for this Camry, do control arm, CV boot, ball joint, spring & struct tend to stay in shape pretty well? without jacking the car up, i can't check much about suspension right now (the spring & struct didn't look normal), i attempt to check the CV boot but it was just too dark and i didn't spend enough time on it. well, i'm now feeling pretty good about getting this Camry... so i'll check the wheels out when i perform some fluid changes next week...

quick question about coolant and radiator flush: this Camry doesn't seem to have much coolant left in the expansion tank, yet during and after 20 minutes driving engine didn't overheat and no leak of any kind that i could find. it did complete a major tune up before it started sitting in the parking lot for 5 months (i imagine the mechanic would have flush or top the radiator coolant in that $300 major tune up)... so is this car "using coolant" maybe failing water pump? or is it normal with drastic temperature changes (summer 100F to fall 40F) while sitting in the parking lot and somehow coolant just got lowered over time?

Last edited by LittleCamryLE; 10-24-2008 at 09:32 PM. Reason: edit details
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Old 10-28-2008, 10:25 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Do it, with the money you put into it, you'll get wayy more in return.
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Old 10-28-2008, 08:35 PM   #10 (permalink)
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3rd Generation

Quote:
Originally Posted by LittleCamryLE View Post
glad to hear that the minor vibration in "R" is normal. that doesn't bother me at all as it won't cause anything close to fatal accident due to minor vibration only in "R" that i feel for couple seconds.

when it comes down to suspension, that could be fatal in the worst case. that's what i would punt on a car if anything serious starting to fall apart. e.g. my wife's volvo wagon was pulling to the right and starting to have vibration over ~55 mph... that made me have an alignment specialist do alignment for $70 (as to dealership for $240). then at that time, the mechanic showed me and i could easily swing the right front wheel back and forth (3 & 9 old clock position) free play for almost an inch... bad ball joint could potentially cause us loosing control of the vehicle or that wheel. mostly due to parts, replacing both left and right front ball joint and 4-wheel alignment set me back almost $500. note that it didn't include the control arm or other suspension parts, just ball joint. within 2 days, the vehicle to pull the the right again. i went back to the mechanic and check, the wheels didn't have any play at all (good) but the camber setting already changes by itself from -.3 to .8 and -.3 to .35 on the front wheel (over 1 full degree in 2 days!). he set the camber back to factory default once again and the car drives fine now. it's just a scary sign that things might be starting to fall apart there on the 7-year-old volvo. that recent repair experience triggers me to think i began to "invest/pot-commit" to fix the volvo.

for this Camry, do control arm, CV boot, ball joint, spring & struct tend to stay in shape pretty well? without jacking the car up, i can't check much about suspension right now (the spring & struct didn't look normal), i attempt to check the CV boot but it was just too dark and i didn't spend enough time on it. well, i'm now feeling pretty good about getting this Camry... so i'll check the wheels out when i perform some fluid changes next week...

quick question about coolant and radiator flush: this Camry doesn't seem to have much coolant left in the expansion tank, yet during and after 20 minutes driving engine didn't overheat and no leak of any kind that i could find. it did complete a major tune up before it started sitting in the parking lot for 5 months (i imagine the mechanic would have flush or top the radiator coolant in that $300 major tune up)... so is this car "using coolant" maybe failing water pump? or is it normal with drastic temperature changes (summer 100F to fall 40F) while sitting in the parking lot and somehow coolant just got lowered over time?

I've heard very little suspension issues with older camry's. Most boots, joints, tie rods, arms, struts, springs, last for a lonnngggg time stock.

Even so... your local junkyard should have this stuff cheap, if not there, try a reliable ebay seller, or www.carpartswholesale.com those should help.

the coolant could be a few things. My 4 cyl have a small abrasion in the back corner of the overfill tank, and coolant actually evaporated little by little!

there's guys on this forum that have camrys past 300,000 miles on the clock... so for $300 i'd jump on this offer man!

And the "search" button on the top is a Great friend of yours in this forum, also check out the CAMRY DIY and FAQ, great sources for help.

Good luck!
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Old 10-28-2008, 08:58 PM   #11 (permalink)
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is the Camry your looking at an American, or Japanese made one??

What are the first 4 of the VIN number??

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Old 10-30-2008, 12:27 PM   #12 (permalink)
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4T1SK12E3RU395665 I just pasted this on AutoCheck.com for their free check, it says it's US made. I sort of expected that when I first saw the VIN, as I think all Japanese made vehicle starts with a J in the first letter. Please correct me if that is too general of a statement.

Also, is there any reference to how to decode/understand what the rest of the VIN mean?
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Old 10-30-2008, 12:33 PM   #13 (permalink)
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thanks man. just got her all tiltle & register up, put 2 new tires at discount tires co. for $159 w/ warranty, put new battery from autozone for $73. still need to replace the front parking light #1156A (side bulbs next to headlight) & low beam #9006 before taking it to pass inspection.

so far so good, still under budget & expectation. i'm about to try to clear or diagnose the ABS light at lunch today... will update here later. thanks for all who replied & voted... it gave me a lot more confidence & trust (boosted from like a 65% to like a 95% easily) to take on this project.
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'94 Honda Accord EX 157K mi. White
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Old 10-30-2008, 02:16 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quick update to my own response (#13) about my ABS light troubleshoot attempt in this thread:
1) Turn the key to On
2) Jumped the TC & E1 spot in the Diagnostic terminals (under steering coloumn) with a paper clip
3) I hear blinking sound and I saw the airbag & cruise control lights were blinking while ABS light stays solid. I thought I didn't short them properly, so I unpluged and repluged in the paper clip (I made sure it was in between the metal on both clip) and also press the brakes quickly for about 5 to 8 times in 2 or 3 seconds, then I saw my ABS light went away. But as soon as I turn off and turn it back on, ABS light stays on.

Anything that I'm doing wrong here? Or I just don't know why the Airbag & Cruise lights were blinking... Thanks!
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'94 Toyota Camry LE 224K mi. Dark Green
'94 Honda Accord EX 157K mi. White
Gone: '01 V70XC, '92 190E 2.3, '97 A8 Quattro, '02 Maxima SE, '96 Altima, '87 Supra, '86 CRX
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