3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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Before I pulled the I.A.C. valve on my 3vz-fe V6(92 camry), I listened to see if it was clicking or moving, when I turned on the key. It didn't budge, so I continued to pull it. I checked the ohms and each test was in spec (20-25). Cleaned it good of carbon, but back on, then wouldn't idle at all cold. Had to wait till the engine was completely warmed up, before it would idle at 500 rpms. In gear, it goes to about 550-600 rpms.
While it's running, i pull the plug to the IAC, nothing changes, so its either fried or the plug connector isn't connecting right.
Update:
I unplugged this module that looks connected to the side of the throttle body. Not sure what it is, but after pulling the vaccum from it, and capping it off, idle is better, round 1,100 rpms. When in gear, it drops to normal.
I dont know what is up with the IAC, or if this module i capped is the culprit.
Even when I drive the car, and the modules capped, the idle still dives a hair, but nothing like it does normally. For a few minutes, it didn't dive at all. Maybe because I still have the IAC hooked up. The ohm readings on the IAC were in spec. I cleaned it very good, it was sparkling inside and out. the rotor turned freely and fast with no problems, after I lubed the center rod(not wd-40 )
Any suggestions folks, and stumped.
UPDATE 2: I replaced the no.5 air hose, put some tighter clamps on it, and now it's fine. It did dive to about 650 rpms for a second, then leveled off as usual. I hope it's in learning mode again. So, working again so far. Ill keep everyone updated.
Btw, the thing I did in the pic above is a temp fix for a failing IAC, it bumps the idle up to 1,100 rpms in park, and in gear, normal.
Have you eliminated the possibility of the plug/wiring being the reason?
nope. Guess I ought to get out the ohm meter for the wires. btw, what is the best way to pull the wires off the distributor, as the clips are odd and i dont want to break them. :/
I am pretty sure that I saw a post describing how to clean and test the IAC. It suggested running power (12 volt?) to the IAC motor while on the bench and observing the fins moving. However, I can't find the post. I hate it when I can't search out something that I know is there.
The IAC has a small motor in it. Hopefully, you didn't submerge the motor in cleaning solvent.
Kep
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Often, it's the loose screw between the steering wheel and the driver's seat that needs to be fixed first!
I am pretty sure that I saw a post describing how to clean and test the IAC. It suggested running power (12 volt?) to the IAC motor while on the bench and observing the fins moving. However, I can't find the post. I hate it when I can't search out something that I know is there.
The IAC has a small motor in it. Hopefully, you didn't submerge the motor in cleaning solvent.
Kep
sunday, i took the iac off, cleaned the base and the motor. Relubed the motor and put some pb blaster on the rod the contracts and moves out, hand tested it, and so it spins free and fairly fast all the way out.
Replaced the no.5 air hose and that helped a ton. I still get some dive when coming to a full stop, but livable.
I wonder if their is another hose that needs replacing?
Could a coolant sensor do this?
Doesn't seem like a plug wire would cause this, but i could be wrong.
Went to the pick n pull and got another iac to clean, an almost brand new dist. housing, 3 injectors(backups), a cold start injector(a backup), top lid to the air filter, off a 92 with 176k on it, all for $55.
btw, while im at it, whats a good way to clean an injector right? Can you soak them?
btw, what are all the sensors that would case the coolant fan to kick on full bore randomly, then back to normal? And where they are in the engine bay.
This way I can test them to see which one is the culprit.
p.s. I still have the idle dive on a complete stop. What, besides the iac, would cause this?
What would cause that? A big culprit is the air intake hose that goes from the air flow meter to the throttle body. They often develop cracks in this kind of design and it's common on the Camry and ES 300. It could be that it's not on properly, too.
Since you also messed with the throttle body and the IACV, you may have leak from them, too. Hopefully you used a new gasket(s) or at minimum RTV when you put back together.
Why do you suspect your fan is high speed for wrong reason?
What would cause that? A big culprit is the air intake hose that goes from the air flow meter to the throttle body. They often develop cracks in this kind of design and it's common on the Camry and ES 300. It could be that it's not on properly, too.
Since you also messed with the throttle body and the IACV, you may have leak from them, too. Hopefully you used a new gasket(s) or at minimum RTV when you put back together.
Why do you suspect your fan is high speed for wrong reason?
I did reuse the IACV gasket because I didnt have a new one. You think that would cause this? What else would that cause, if it's the problem?
NEO, as for the TPS, i did loosen it months back, but did adjust it back by the book with an ohm meter.
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