3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
My '93 camry has the 3VZ-FE V-6 and the A540E automatic. It up-shifts very hard when warm. The fluid is good and topped up. It started all of a sudden about 1 year ago, after I passed a car. It shifts into reverse faster than normal too, and very hard. I've checked the Throttle valve cable, it pulls smooth and the adjustment is O.K. It down shifts normally. Theres NO slipping,it just seems to always have really high line pressure. There aren't any good transmission shops in my area, the only one that I trust is about a seven hour drive, one way. I have an original Transmission service manual from toyota, but there is no trouble shooting in it. What should I do?
There isn't much you can do unless you are willing to drop the valve body and rebuild it. However, if there is some valve wear in the vavle body that is causing this, then a simple rebuild is not going to fix it. Your best bet would be to go buy a new (reman'ed) valve body, or get a trans shop to order you one and put in it yourself. It's likely in your valve body. You probably won't be able to buy one yourself since they usually only sell to trans shops with accounts. Too bad Phoenix Hardparts seems out of business, because you use to be able to buy one over the net. The other alternative is a used one on Ebay or the junkyard. Just be aware that there are actually 2 diferent versions of the body: one has an extra tube hole apparrently.
Does it shift hard between every gear? If it's affecting reverse as well, then it is probably a sticky pressure regulator or boost valve, or worn sleeves on those. There are some replacement valves and sleeves made by Sonnax that fix this problem, but they require re-boring the valve body to accept the new sleeves, so machine shop service is needed at a minimum. This is not really DIY unless you have a lot of time and are willing to have the vehicle out of service for days or more.
Now since you said that it started doing this suddenly one day, I would check your throttle pressure cable sheath at its base going into the trans to make sure it hasn't broken at that point. If it breaks there, it can sometimes cause the effective length of the cable to increase. Since the inner cable has a crimped sleeve at its exit point, a broken sheath can cause this even if the cable is completely detached from the TB.
If it is definitely not the cable and it did start suddenly as you say, then it is not likely a worn regulator valve but rather a sticking valve or one of the check balls in the valve body fell thru its hole due to wear. The check balls are there to reduce shift shock.
There isn't much you can do unless you are willing to drop the valve body and rebuild it. However, if there is some valve wear in the vavle body that is causing this, then a simple rebuild is not going to fix it. Your best bet would be to go buy a new (reman'ed) valve body, or get a trans shop to order you one and put in it yourself. It's likely in your valve body. You probably won't be able to buy one yourself since they usually only sell to trans shops with accounts. Too bad Phoenix Hardparts seems out of business, because you use to be able to buy one over the net. The other alternative is a used one on Ebay or the junkyard. Just be aware that there are actually 2 diferent versions of the body: one has an extra tube hole apparrently.
Does it shift hard between every gear? If it's affecting reverse as well, then it is probably a sticky pressure regulator or boost valve, or worn sleeves on those. There are some replacement valves and sleeves made by Sonnax that fix this problem, but they require re-boring the valve body to accept the new sleeves, so machine shop service is needed at a minimum. This is not really DIY unless you have a lot of time and are willing to have the vehicle out of service for days or more.
Now since you said that it started doing this suddenly one day, I would check your throttle pressure cable sheath at its base going into the trans to make sure it hasn't broken at that point. If it breaks there, it can sometimes cause the effective length of the cable to increase. Since the inner cable has a crimped sleeve at its exit point, a broken sheath can cause this even if the cable is completely detached from the TB.
If it is definitely not the cable and it did start suddenly as you say, then it is not likely a worn regulator valve but rather a sticking valve or one of the check balls in the valve body fell thru its hole due to wear. The check balls are there to reduce shift shock.******I bet this is the problem right here. I read the same sugestion here on TN last year sometime. According to the person who posted at that time, this is somewhat common for these A540E's. I'm glad you mentioned this because I had forgotten. I already have another transmission needing a rebuild, but it was shifting smooth as silk when I removed it. I guess I should pull the valve body from this one and put it in, providing it is the same model. I also believe the problem is in the valve body. I guess theres only one way to find out, TO THE GARAGE!!!
Beside what davemac2 had indicated, it is also possible the one of the accumulator spring is broken.
N.E.O.
That's possible too I suppose N.E.O. I don't have enough experience to say really. for that matter, it could be one of the valve springs in the valve body too.
If all the shift timing/point is correct and all the gears are there, the most common cause would be accumulator seal or spring problem. The best thing would be to do a pressure test, if the line pressure is good at idle and stall speed, then there is a very good chance the pressure regulator valve is not stuck.
And you are correct about the valve spring could be the cause; however, it would generally change the shift timing/point.
In his case, it is the Throttle Valve cable, which he stated he had already checked. And yes, it also control the force down shift of the transmission if you stand on the throttle.
if the throttle pressure cable is "loose" would that be the cause of the hard shift? I'd assume that we set the throttle cable first (according to idle) and then adjust the transmission throttle pressure cable after?
Should the tranny throttle pressure cable be "snug" or should there be some slack in the line?
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HARD up-shifting, '93 Camry
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