Update -- for all the cheap bastards out there I present my solution:
Pin6 - FM Off (active high, i.e. tie to 12V to enable radio)
Pin2 - Audio Left +
Pin1 - Audio Left - (likely -- I used pin5 signal ground instead)
Pin4 - Audio Right +
Pin3 - Audio Right - (likely)
Pin13 - Full System Mute (active low(??), i.e. short to ground to mute all audio)
(See
http://mazda-speed.com/faq/audio/#Round for the order. The Sony CD mod which I reference next gives wire colours if gutting the tape deck which were accurate, but I would always double check first.)
No other pin (except power rails, as documented at other sources) has any effect. I believe the diagrams on other sites have the audio lines swapped. (Different car... I guess slightly different pinouts. How annoying.) (Although I did ground PIN11 too... but I'm not sure that has any effect!)
I removed the guts of the tape deck. I removed the Dolby button and added a switch ( Pin6 -> 1K Resistor -> 12V (acc)) on the original face plate PCB. (The switches on the tape deck PCB were not of the right type needed for this--I grabbed a random one from a parts bin.)
I then pulled an AUX cable through one of other holes left by the gutted tape deck and hooked it up to the audio signals. I would have also added a relay or a better switch so that the audio lines aren't floating when not enabled but since I probably won't use the radio it's not a problem. (See
http://www.sonic.net/~fosterm/miata/ for example.)
A neat effect of this setup is if you attach a GPS and use the radio, the GPS instructions will be mixed in to the radio's audio stream (if Pin6 is low). Of course, the radio will need to be sufficiently low to hear to instructions!
Update2: Pin6 should be pulled high (I used 1K resistor). Oddly enough it worked fine when tied low too, but not when head lights were turned on. Flipping on the AUX switch now also turns on the radio if it was previously off.