1996 Camry V6 timing belt change Q's

[donbryce]

I know, from searching, that this is a well-covered and discussed subject, but I just got my Camry last week and the parts to do the belt job are due to arrive tomorrow.
I did my 'homework' and read up on the procedure for the 1MZ-FE engine. From the 2 write-ups that I found the best, one from Autozone, the other an internet 'free' 'official' service manual procdure http://www.**********s.com/camry/ , and the DIY information here, I have a couple of questions for the experienced at this job:

- Why remove the 3 timing pulleys (RH cam, LH cam, crank) if I see no evidence of oil around any of them (bad seal?) and only want to do preventive maintenance by replacing the belt and the 2 idlers? Is this part of the job necessary, say to be able to inspect the seals properly?

- The Toyota information in the maintenance section doesn't list the water pump as a 'replace item' at any interval, so why do so many write-ups suggest changing it 'while you're in there'? I can see the sense if you are paying labour to do a belt change, but if I'm doing the work, and there is no evidence of pump leakage/bearing noise/etc, should I consider the Toyota waterpump suspect on principle?

(Sticker on the engine says belt last changed at 121,900km, odo reading now is 267,900km, so it's been 146,000km since)

- None of the write-ups discuss removing the sparkplugs to make turning the engine over easier, although 1 did mention taking out the front-most 3. Is the engine too hard to turn with them in? The 'official' procedure doesn't mention this at all. Are they hard to remove?

Any input much appreciated. I'm new to these engines, but have done lots of work on my 2 Mercedes and did build a Chevy 350 from scratch some years ago, so I'm somewhere in the average+ realm of DIYer's.

[new echo owner]

Whether you will need to replace the cam seals and crank seal or not depend very much on the condition of the engine. If the engine has been well maintained, there is a good chance that the seals would be fine. You can actually see the cam seals through the gears without removing them, and if they are leaking you will also see the oil around the back plate. As for the crank seal, you can just slide the crank gear off after loosening the timing guild tab; on some occasions the gear may be stuck, there is a couple of holes on the gear that you can use to pull the gear off.

Most owner will replace the water pump with the timing belt to save the labor cost, since the addition labor require to replace the water pump after the timing belt is off is really minimal. As long as you don't mind doing the work again when the pump is leaking, there isn't really a need to replace it with the timing belt.

It depends on what kind of tools is available to you, turn the engine over is not that difficult at all; it helps a little with the plugs out but not a necessity. The front three spark plugs are easy to rear ones is not that much more work either.

BTW, like everyone says, Welcome to TN.

N.E.O.

[toyomoho]

The crank pulley needs to be removed to take off the timing belt cover. The cam pulleys only if changing seals, etc.

The belt is changed ever 60 or 90K miles depending on year. Changing the WP can be viewed as preventative maintenance, doing so when the timing belt is changed makes it easy as all the parts are already removed (a labor savings approach). It's OK to do the job as required.

Check for WP bearing play, roughness, leakage at the seep hole, etc.

Front 3 plugs are easy enough, rear 3 not so easy. You should be able to rotate the engine slowly by hand with the plugs installed using a long breaker on the crank bolt. Or take out half the plugs. If taking out all the plugs now is the time to replace them if required.