1MZ-FE Timing belt tensioner question

[donbryce]

I'm in the middle of my timing belt change ('96 Camry V6), and have a question regarding the condition of the tensioner.
The procedure I'm following, which I believe is Toyota's, says to check the tensioner as follows:
a. Visually check for oil leakage. I have absolutely no oil on the pushrod end.
b. Hold and push upward against a firm surface, checking for movement of pushrod. Mine is rock solid.
c. Measure the protrusion of the push rod from the housing end. It should be 10.0 - 10.8mm (0.394 - 0.425in). Mine is 11.6mm (0.460 or so in).
So, it fails this test. The book says to replace it if this is the case.

Does anyone know if this is a good reason to replace it, or can it be safely re-used with my new belt (and new idlers)? Can it be replaced later if need be, without removing the lower cover or anything else, as the bolts are external?

[new echo owner]

0.8 of a mm, isn't very much, it can also be measurement error. If it is not leaking and it is firm, it is usually safe to reuse it.

You can pull the tensioner out at a later time but with the risk of having the timing belt skipping a tooth on the gear without knowing unless you take it all apart again.

How many miles is on the car? First timing belt?

N.E.O.

[donbryce]

Thanks very much for the fast reply. The car has 267,900KM on it, and the sticker on the cover says the belt was changed at 121,900KM. So I make it to be about 46,000KM overdue for a change.
I don't see any oil around any of the cam pulleys or the crank, so assume the seals are still good. I'm replacing the 2 idlers 'on principle', as I don't know if they were done at the last belt change or not, even though they spin freely and no noise at all.
I just wasn't sure about the significance of the tensioner rod measurement, which I did with a digital caliper BTW. I'm guessing the slight increase in the extension might be from normal belt stretch? Or it could be that I'm referencing a spec. that may not apply to my specific year/engine.
The tensioner costs about $115.00 here, so if replacement is not necessary, I'd like to feel comfortable with re-using this one.
Anyone else care to chime in?

[new echo owner]

The spec you used is correct for your year and model. It is actually compressed when it is installed on the engine, so I never knew what the significance of that spec is about. I usually replace them when it feels weak when trying to compress it or when it is leaking oil, and so far that had never fail me.

N.E.O.

[donbryce]

Thank you for the follow up N.E.O. I'm gonna use the one I have. I'm just waiting for the upper idler to get here, likely tomorrow, then I can finish the job.
Not to get too far off topic, but for the life of me, I can't see which of the bolts under there is the pivot for the power steering pump. I thought it was the topmost one, right under the plastic cover, and spent an hour trying to get a wrench on it. I finally gave up and just removed the adjuster bolt entirely, then levered the pump up with prybars. That bolt, if it's the right one, is only slightly easier to see/access with the timing cover off.

[new echo owner]

The upper bolt for the power steering pump can be reach with a socket through the holes in the pulley from the wheel well, but you can just loosen the adjuster bolt and pry the pump over without messing with the upper bolt too.

N.E.O.