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3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 11-09-2008, 04:55 PM   #1 (permalink)
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3rd Generation help! will not start after install

I have a 150k mile 1993 camry xle with the 3vzfe v6 in it.

I bought it with a bad low end bearing. I would drive it around the yard knocking like crazy, so i know it started and ran before i pulled the engine.

I got a junkyard engine that i heard run before they removed it. So i know that the engine and car ran before i put the junkyard engine in the car.

I have installed everything and it will not start.

I do not have spark. I have battery power going into the coil but no power coming out to the distributor. I do not think it is the coil because the car ran with the bad engine in. I think it has something to do with a signal for the ignitor but do not have enough experience with cars to track down the problem. I am an aircraft mechanic so i understand the basics of the car, but not the subsidiary systems and ecu.

Please help me get this car running. What would you do next? Where do i look?
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Old 11-09-2008, 09:45 PM   #2 (permalink)
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First off, call the junk yard and ask them if they would please hold on to the rest of the car until you know if you need anything else from it.

What parts of your engine and the replacement engine were mixed together? Distributor, igniter, coil(s), ECU, sensors, wringing harness, etc...? If the engines were identical everything should swap out but if not...

Damaged or disconnected wiring seems to be the most common problem with a proper engine swap. It is easy to damage a wire inadvertently.

What checks have you made so far? What happens when you turn the key?

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Old 11-09-2008, 09:57 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hfmt93 View Post
I have a 150k mile 1993 camry xle with the 3vzfe v6 in it.

I bought it with a bad low end bearing. I would drive it around the yard knocking like crazy, so i know it started and ran before i pulled the engine.

I got a junkyard engine that i heard run before they removed it. So i know that the engine and car ran before i put the junkyard engine in the car.

I have installed everything and it will not start.

I do not have spark. I have battery power going into the coil but no power coming out to the distributor. I do not think it is the coil because the car ran with the bad engine in. I think it has something to do with a signal for the ignitor but do not have enough experience with cars to track down the problem. I am an aircraft mechanic so i understand the basics of the car, but not the subsidiary systems and ecu.

Please help me get this car running. What would you do next? Where do i look?

i can't find a wiring diagram for the 3vz-fe, but I'll do my best to help.

The coil gets power from the ignition switch, but grounds through the igniter.
If memory serves me correctly the ecm sends a signal to the igniter through the IGF terminal, and the igniter sends a signal back to the ecm through the IGT terminal.

If either of these connections are interrupted, the engine will not run.
Most likely a wire could have been cut during the engine swap.
I would try checking for continuity on both ends of the IGT, and IGF wires.

My dad had a simillar problem on his truck with the 3VZ-E.
On occaision the truck would not start, or it would die while driving.
It ended up being a bad connection on the IGT wire.

Do you have a EWD for this car?
If not try to get a Real Toyota EWD. They are very helpful.

I hope this helps,
Justin
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Old 11-12-2008, 07:46 PM   #4 (permalink)
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thanks for all the replies.

I do have wire schematics for the 3vzfe. I used everything attached from the junkyard with the engine (distributor, wire harness, ect.). Igniter, coil, ecu is from the car.

The car will turn over normally, everything is normal except it is not getting spark.

I shorted the e1 and te1 terninals with a paper clip on the diagnostic port, then tested for continuity between a24 and b7 on the ecu. I did not get a closed loop. for those with access to wire diagrams, are these the correct pins for te1 and e1?

This should have given a closed loop, correct? I ran out of time to research what may be disconnected but have not seen anything on the schematics.

I have trouble poking the multimeter probes through the back side of the ecu terminals with it plugged in. Is this the best way to do it?

Last edited by hfmt93; 11-12-2008 at 07:52 PM.
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Old 11-12-2008, 11:26 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Can you swap out the current distributor with the old one.

Compare the new harness with the old wire for wire and color for color. There could be differences. If possible use the old wiring harness.

The idea is to do a long block swap but keep as much of the old items as you can.

There could be differences in the distributor, wiring, etc that are causing issues with the older igniter and ECU.

What year of car was the new engine out of?
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Old 11-13-2008, 08:42 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Im not sure of the year, but they only made the 3vzfe in usa in 92 and 93.

The only wiring difference i found was the plug that goes into the alternator was a different type. The wires were the same color so i just switched the connectors.

Yea, i usually do long block swaps, but everything looked the same so i just ran with it.

Does anybody have an answer to this:

"I have trouble poking the multimeter probes through the back side of the ecu terminals with it plugged in. Is this the best way to do it?"
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