Adjusting the TPS: 3VZFE V6

[Rob_0126]

The pdf file technical manual says this:

putting vacuum on the system;
With a .35mm gauge on the throttle stop:
- the ohms is .5 kilo ohms or less
With a .70mm gauge on the throttle stop:
- the ohms is infinity

And to set, using a .54mm gauge on the throttle stop:
- Says when the gauge deflects, this is where to set the tps.

Heres my problem, at what point of deflection?

Because it will go from .2 kilo-ohms on up to 20-40 kilo-ohms till it goes infinite.

I can set the .35mm step just at .5 kilo ohms and anywhere in between.
I can set the TPS with .54mm step about .2k to 10-40k before infinity.

Which gauge setup should i use and where exactly (#) should it be set?

With my .35mm set at .18 kilo -ohms, and .54mm set around 40k to infinity, I get the final idle at 700 rpms.

If I turn the ac on, it bumps a bit, then back to 700 rpms. When I turn the ac off, it goes to 950 rpms, then gradually back down to 700 rpms.

Throttle response is decent, a lot better than it was(the .35 mm use to be .61 kilo ohms, which was too high).(now .18 kilo-ohms)

Anyone with some knowledge on this, clue me in?

Setting TPS is a pain, and i want to get it right and forget it finally.

thanks for some help.


UPDATE: -------------------------------------------------->

I used the specs at .50mm for the 1mzfe engine from advance auto parts website.
It states .50mm <2.3kilo ohms
managed to set it at 1.8 kilo ohms.

Annoyingly, you can breath on the tps, and it will change resistance.
Took me hrs to set it just right.

Also, the stop screw I adjusted to just touch the stop point, while the car was running(this allowed for the blade to be fully closed, as it is not fully closed when the car is not running.)

Oddly enough, the idle was running at 700 rpms again. So since I had each mm adjustment in specs, I turned the stop screw to bump the idle up a little, but not much.
When I test drove, it had some very good throttle response. No idle dive, until I got back to my apartment. I switched from reverse to drive really fast, and so it dived, but not too bad(650 rpms).

specs:
.35 mm (.19 kilo ohms)
.508 mm (1.8 kilo ohms)
.54 mm( idk, since book only says when the ohm meter deflects, your guess is as good as mine, and so i didnt bother to check this time.)
.70 mm (infinity)
All other spec checks were in order.

Why in the world didn't toyota make a self adjusting TPS?

btw, did I do this right?

Robert

[Rob_0126]

Can someone help me with this?

The manual pdf doesn't specify what kilo ohms .54mm end stop is.

Help please.

Robert

[toyomoho]

Some what confused.

The Autozone website lists the same adjustment procedure and data for this engine as the 1MZ-FE. Their procedure uses the clearance between the stop screw and lever and compares this to a listed ohm reading range.

On most Toyota setups the throttle stop screw does not set idle. Idle is controlled by the computer via the intake air control valve. The purpose of the stop and vacuum plunger device is to keep the throttle plate from sticking closed. The plunger opens the throttle plate a little when the engine is off.

If using the AC the idle will jump a little to compensate for the compressor load then drop down. Same when turning it off, the RPM will jump a little then return to normal.

You might be better off readjusting the screw to where it should be then going to the method of measuring the clearance between screw and lever.

Does this help you?

Here is the link:

https://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_u...rInfoPages.htm

[Rob_0126]

Originally Posted by toyomoho

Some what confused.

The Autozone website lists the same adjustment procedure and data for this engine as the 1MZ-FE. Their procedure uses the clearance between the stop screw and lever and compares this to a listed ohm reading range.

On most Toyota setups the throttle stop screw does not set idle. Idle is controlled by the computer via the intake air control valve. The purpose of the stop and vacuum plunger device is to keep the throttle plate from sticking closed. The plunger opens the throttle plate a little when the engine is off.

If using the AC the idle will jump a little to compensate for the compressor load then drop down. Same when turning it off, the RPM will jump a little then return to normal.

You might be better off readjusting the screw to where it should be then going to the method of measuring the clearance between screw and lever.

Does this help you?

Here is the link:

https://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_u...rInfoPages.htm

Thanks.
Thats pretty much what the book states. It however doesn't say what 'deflects' means, in terms of ohms. All I can think of is when the meter pegs, is when you have it set right, given .54mm feeler gauge between screw stop.

What I did today was turn the engine on.
I let it warm up fully.
Then while the engine was running, readjust the stop screw out until their was space between the screw and throttle stop.
Then I readjusted the screw back down till it just touches the throttle stop.

After that, I used a .54mm feeler gauge to set the tps again.

This time, I set the ohm meter up to 200k reading. Then turned it gradually, until it went infinite (no peg, digital). Then to be sure, i tapped it back with my finger slightly to get a high resistance reading, then back up a hair to get it just exact as I could(as close to the start of infinity as possible-which is time consuming, but worth it)

Every other ohm test was in spec, so I test drove the car.

Wow, what a difference in throttle response!
Instead of bogging(when warmed up), it would pull hard, the more throttle you gave it, which of course is what it's suppose to do. The light around town throttle is a ton better.

The idle hangs around 750-700 rpms, so I suppose it's good now.

I still have a problem with the idle diving sometimes, and sometimes not. I suppose the IAC internal shaft isn't lubed good enough, to spin free closed on it's own. ohm readings are in spec for it.

I hope this was done right for the tps, as it's a real pain to set these things, and the book is pretty vague about the .54mm reading. All I can think is as soon as it hits infinity, thats where it needs to be. idk, seems to work good so far.

Any comments/opinions/observations would be good.

Robert

[dekerman1]

The deflection you are wondering about is the "needle" of the potentiometer (TPS) moving from base (0) to idle to run/accelerate/ drive. (picture a speedometer or tach needle moving) I don't use the guage method to do mine, I jump the diagnostic, hook up a timing light, and rotate the TPS until the timing "jumps" (deflects) and set it back to just before deflection.

[Rob_0126]

Originally Posted by dekerman1

The deflection you are wondering about is the "needle" of the potentiometer (TPS) moving from base (0) to idle to run/accelerate/ drive. (picture a speedometer or tach needle moving) I don't use the guage method to do mine, I jump the diagnostic, hook up a timing light, and rotate the TPS until the timing "jumps" (deflects) and set it back to just before deflection.

So I finally set it right then. It was at about as high as I could set it before it pegged(infinity). The throttle response is fantastic. Might get better fuel mileage now.

Good idea what you did btw.

Lesson to all: Do not touch the TPS if you don't have to.

[Rob_0126]

(new thread)