3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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On the way home from school today, as we're pulling out of the parking lot, my friend rolls down the front passenger to say something to someone.
When she's done talking, she pulls the switch and the window doesn't come back up. I try on the driver's side lever, same thing. The window is stuck down. So we end up driving with the window down, and heater on high.
Now when I get home..I turn off the car, and I try the switch again, and the window just starts working again, and closes.
Why would this have happened? Could the passenger switch have shorted out, causing the window to not work? Does this 20* Michigan weather have anything to do with it?
Last edited by Andrew Liu; 11-10-2008 at 04:08 PM.
Reason: spelled occurrence wrong.
I'm going to guess the window started to work AFTER the door was opened and closed. It is really common for the wires between the body/door (when you open the dorr, you see the rubber with the wires between) to break. So when the door was re-opened, and closed, the wires got shuffled and made contact again, thus the window worked.
90% of the time, thats the issue.
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Employed at Toyota in Parts, again.
Yeah, the door was opened and closed. However, after realizing that it worked again, I opened/closed the door multiple times (like 10) to try and see if it would stop working again. It didn't, worked 100% of the time after that. Maybe it was just freak chance that the door wires separated that one time?
Even then, how would I check the wires to see if they're broken? I don't know how to remove the rubber boot surrounding the wires.
I've seen it happen once, then not for a while, then again. It;s normal. My friend had to fix the wires on his '93 Camry a couple months ago for the same reason.
You need to take the side kick panel off, and hysr unplug the connectors that go into the door. Just push them through the body with the rubber. I;ve never persoanally done it, but you should be able to just slide the rubber back to examine the wires.
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Employed at Toyota in Parts, again.
On mine, the wire was broken inside the insulation. So when you check the wires, don't just do a visual inspection. Check for continuity using an ohmmeter.
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1992 Camry LE, V6 (3VZ-FE), ABS brakes, 326k miles, dark emerald pearl, owned since new.
1996 Avalon XLS, ABS brakes, moonroof, white, acquired w/ 139k miles, now at 257k.
2001 Yamaha FZ1, Ivan's jet kit, resprung all around, Ohlins in the rear, Race Tech cartridge emulators in the forks, 45k miles.
On mine, the wire was broken inside the insulation. So when you check the wires, don't just do a visual inspection. Check for continuity using an ohmmeter.
Good idea with that as well. I never thought of that.
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Employed at Toyota in Parts, again.
One last suggestion; when you find the break, don't just pull the broken ends of the wire(s) together and solder them. That would shorten the length of the service loop and make it more prone to re-breaking. Instead, splice in a couple of inches of finely stranded wire (not solid wire) so it's even longer than original. Use the stranded wire because it's flexible.
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1992 Camry LE, V6 (3VZ-FE), ABS brakes, 326k miles, dark emerald pearl, owned since new.
1996 Avalon XLS, ABS brakes, moonroof, white, acquired w/ 139k miles, now at 257k.
2001 Yamaha FZ1, Ivan's jet kit, resprung all around, Ohlins in the rear, Race Tech cartridge emulators in the forks, 45k miles.
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