3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
I recieved my replacement sensor in the mail today, but when I went to take off the old sensor, the damn thing broke off in the hub!
Theres like 3mm or so still exposed, but I've tried a ton of methods to try and remove the broken part, to no avail. It's like it's seized in there.
I tryed screwing self-tapping screws into the rubber insulation between the housing and the magnet, but those just pulled out the insulation. I've tried grappling at the thing with pliers, after pb blaster, but that didn't work either.
How do I get the thing out? I'm thinking about just going to like Midas or something and having them remove it.
Take off the rotor, then take off the parking brake shoes, and the hub (just 4 bolts), and hammer it out with a screwdriver. I was going to say use a tap, but you said you tried that.
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Employed at Toyota in Parts, again.
My riced out crapmobile Camry: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/228043...y-xle-sedan-4d '96 Camry: 2MZ Supercharged.....
'95 Corolla AE101: JDM Tails/Trunk Panel/Grill/Headlights with BiXenon Projectors. JDM Lighted Ignition Keyring and Cabin Air Filter
5 Lug Corolla WHAT?
when i did mine, i used the portable drill to drill out the remaining coil and plastic, my old sensor plastic was fused into the hole due to years of heat from braking, the manual said remove 10mm bolt, and pull the old sensor out, lied, i broke it in half.
if i do that would i have to worry about shavings falling into the wheel hub bearing?
seems easier than removing the hub though. what size bit?
from what i saw, i think the abs sensor is right behind the wheel hub bearning, and the hole is slope down, i don't see how the shaving would fall into the wheel hub bearing?
i forgot wut bit size, but i think i use all difference sizes, i don't really drill on the metal holder, just keep the drill bit spining, so the drill bit can rub off the remaining plastic, you will have to make sure the hole is around and clear of debris, other wise, the new abs sensor won't able to slide back in.
I would try that, but there appears to be a metal tube that's part of the abs sensor? It's stuck in the hole, left there when the rest of the plastic sensor broke off. It doesn't appear that there is any plastic in the hole.
weird? The replacement sensor appears to be all plastic.
Okay so I just got the broken part removed by Midas for $40 instead of going through more trouble.
Now, I have another issue, not so much a problem, as an annoyance.
The new sensor seems to be overactive, triggering the abs whenever I press the brake. The abs only happens on that wheel, which gets annoying. The new sensor checks out fine.
Is there any way to make that stop? Or what could cause this?
I have the same problem in the RF wheel. My guess is that some crap from the removal of the old sensor was driven inwards into the hub and is in the teeth in the hub and screwing up the signal the sensor gets.
Okay, so the ABS popped another code on me today, while driving.
Code 37, rear abs rotor malfunction. which means that either the thing is massively gunked up (which it isn't, i peeked through the hole) or that it's broken.
That'll get taken care of on tuesday, but until then, I wanted to disable the abs by pulling the fuse. However, that thing is stuck on there good, I couldn't get it out by yanking.
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