Front driver side power window switch doesn't work - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums


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Old 11-18-2008, 12:41 PM   #1 (permalink)
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3rd Generation Front driver side power window switch doesn't work

Got in the car last night after not driving it since friday. The other 3 switches work fine but not the front left side. I assume it stopped working as it's the one used the most. It seems to be getting power as my gauges dim when pressing it down but it doesn't do anything. Do the 4 need to replaced as a whole or can it be replaced individually?
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Old 11-18-2008, 08:29 PM   #2 (permalink)
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is it the switch, relay, window motor???


come on 10 identical exhaust threads get started and get responses a day and this doesn't get a look?
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Old 11-18-2008, 08:43 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Do you mean the left front window doesn't work or the switch doesn't work? It sounds like a window motor problem but you will need to remove the door panel to check for power and ground at the window motor connector.

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Old 11-18-2008, 09:42 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Where i'm at now is the switch itself doesn't work...every other button, window's, locks etc work except the drivers front window switch.
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Old 11-18-2008, 09:50 PM   #5 (permalink)
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So the switch doesn't operate the driver's window alone? Or doesn't operate any of the other windows?

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Old 11-18-2008, 10:02 PM   #6 (permalink)
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All buttons are working properly except the one controlling the front driver side window.
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Old 11-18-2008, 10:10 PM   #7 (permalink)
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3rd Generation Dont throw parts at it...test it

Its likely that the switch is corroded and needs replacement as a whole unit. I have tried cleaning the contact points of the switch however the switch mechanism uses small parts including springs which dont go back together easily at all. You should remove your door panel and run 12 volts (can be directly from the battery)to the 2 contact points on the window motors wiring harness. If it works you should have narrowed it down to the master switch going bad. It is a common problem.
Goodluck
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Old 11-18-2008, 10:22 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Also check the wiring between the drivers door and chassis. The wires can break due to ongoing door usage.
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Old 11-18-2008, 10:30 PM   #9 (permalink)
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3rd Generation

The fact that your lights dim when you use the switch suggests that its trying to draw current but cant because if corrosion.
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Old 11-18-2008, 11:08 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Mike if you want to try to swap out the actual button I got one from the coupe. LMK if you want it.
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Old 11-18-2008, 11:38 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Durrby View Post
All buttons are working properly except the one controlling the front driver side window.
Just take the door panel off, and check for both power and ground at the motor connector. From your description it sounds like a motor problem.

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Old 11-19-2008, 06:35 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by new echo owner View Post
Just take the door panel off, and check for both power and ground at the motor connector. From your description it sounds like a motor problem.

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I agree, the large current draw (lights dimming) is more likely caused by the stalled window motor or if the motor is shorted out.

The switch is pretty easy to check. Grab your trusty multimeter, set it to ohms on the 200 ohm scale. Measure between the common and each terminal on the switch while depressing the button. The resistance should be very low ,less than one ohm (ideally 0.3-0.4 which is just the test probes' resistance).
Any more and the switch has contact problems. You may be able to blast some DeOxit into it and work it through.
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Old 11-19-2008, 07:19 AM   #13 (permalink)
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mike it's most likely the switch that's what it was on my 92 and the wagon.
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Old 11-19-2008, 12:41 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by -SCWEET1- View Post
Mike if you want to try to swap out the actual button I got one from the coupe. LMK if you want it.
Thanks Milt, i'll let you know. I haven't had time to take the panel off and check anything yet.

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I agree, the large current draw (lights dimming) is more likely caused by the stalled window motor or if the motor is shorted out.

The switch is pretty easy to check. Grab your trusty multimeter, set it to ohms on the 200 ohm scale. Measure between the common and each terminal on the switch while depressing the button. The resistance should be very low ,less than one ohm (ideally 0.3-0.4 which is just the test probes' resistance).
Any more and the switch has contact problems. You may be able to blast some DeOxit into it and work it through.
Me no have multimeter

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mike it's most likely the switch that's what it was on my 92 and the wagon.
Ok bro i'll looking into that. Was figuring that's what the culprit is.
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Old 11-20-2008, 07:06 PM   #15 (permalink)
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try some contact cleaner,it might be that simple.
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