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3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 11-18-2008, 06:11 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Fast-idle not working?

I tore the engine (5SFE) on my 94 Camry down to the short-block, it was a ton of work. I did it to fix some oil-leaks and also to install a time-cert heli-coil in a bad spark-plug thread (didn't blow the threads, but thought it did - long story)

I replaced the following: Timing belt, front main seal, oil pump gasket, valve-cover gasket, water-pump, and oil-pan (toyota) packing stuff.

It runs great with the cleaned-out fuel-injectors, however I don't seem to have a fast-idle when cold. Did I miss a wire hook-up or vacuum-line ??

A sort of vacuum-solenoid sits right below the throttle-blade cable thing. Does that do it or is that the dashpot ??

Thanks again guys !!
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Old 11-18-2008, 07:37 PM   #2 (permalink)
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The dash pot is there to lift the throttle arm and plate off to prevent sticking. Actual idle speed is controlled by the computer via the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve.

There is an ECU coolant temp sensor that informs the computer of the coolant temp.

Make sure all the wires, etc are hooked up.

Check for idle up when the car is put into gear or the AC is turned on. This is part of the same idle up circuit used when the engine is cold. If the engine idles up OK when using engaging these items would suspect the coolant sensor or wiring to it.
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Old 11-18-2008, 09:34 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Agree about the coolant temp sensor!

N.E.O.
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Old 11-19-2008, 08:00 AM   #4 (permalink)
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The coolant temp sensor or ECT sensor, as Toyota calls it in their manuals, can be checked with a digital volt/ohmeter and the specs from any manual. You need to check it both cold and warm.

Mike
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Old 11-19-2008, 06:35 PM   #5 (permalink)
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thanks to all, I'll look into this. Probably an easier fix than the darned rear-main seal that I've discovered has failed. Gonna cost me big I think...
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Old 11-19-2008, 08:43 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Keep us posted!

N.E.O.
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Old 11-21-2008, 08:01 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Was not rear-main was axle-seal so car is in the shop.

No fast idle on start or A/C will have to wait. Car runs super and gets great gas-mileage so must be that IAC circuit. Will have to trace the vacuum lines and check the selenoid (VSV??) out.

Thanks for the help...

Brad
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Old 11-21-2008, 08:11 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Any idea what is leaking, if not the rear main seal or axle seal? Distributor maybe?

N.E.O.
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Old 11-24-2008, 10:08 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I'm sorry.

It WAS an axle-seal on the 5-speed transmission. Doesn't look that hard to fix, but I live in an 'outlying' area and the parts house (Advance auto, 70 miles away) said there were 2 different 5-speeds in 1994 Camry's. Hard to believe so I just took it to the dealer this time. It's really cold in my garage right now anyway.

Should be good when I get it back with re-built axles and 2 new seals. I had them throw in synthetic gear oil also...
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Old 11-24-2008, 03:13 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Well, let us know how it goes when you get the car back, or when you desicde to tackle the fast idle problem.

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Old 11-29-2008, 07:30 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Car is back. Gearbox leak is gone, but still leaking SOME oil onto the exhaust pipe. Distributor o-ring on order, hope that's it.

Investigated fast idle: Idle did turn out to be slightly faster with IAC valve wire (3-pins, under throttle butterfly valve) disconnected.

Made adjustment to idle-speed to correct to around 1000 rpm on the in-car tach with the wire connected. Goes to a little faster with wire disconnected (1100 ??). When it is connected, the IAC valve should be shut. So why does it still try to suck my finger into the port in the throttle-body for the IAC valve?? Also the idle-speed drops to maybe 600 rpm. and when I spray deep-creep seafoam in there it sucks it in, even though the IAC valve should be shut. Do these have designed leak-by or is mine shot.

Ohmed-out the pins in accordance with the manual. Seemed to get 0 ohms vice 19-23 between the center pin and either outer pin of the three.

That valve looks expensive online !!

Thanks in advance...
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Old 11-29-2008, 08:51 AM   #12 (permalink)
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If you have 0 ohms from the center pin to the other two, it sounds like your IAC is shorted. Are you sure you are on the right scale? Just checking! Can't picture both coils going out at the same time.

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Old 11-29-2008, 04:55 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Was using a Fluke Ohm-meter. Got the same reading as when checking the meter (both leads shorted together = 0 ohms). So it does sound like my IAC valve is shorted on both coilds. Maybe I'd better re-measure it with alligator clips instead of the Fluke leads.
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Old 11-29-2008, 05:50 PM   #14 (permalink)
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It isn't that for both coils to short out at the same time won't happen, but I would take a closer look at the connector pins to see if there is anything there that might have cause that.

BTW, you might have better luck getting a complete throttle body from the wrecking yard than just the IAC.

N.E.O.
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