More Power Window Trouble Shooting

[ebud]

I am still trying to get my 2 rear windows to work correctly...

-Front windows work fine
-Driverside rear goes down but not up and no control from the front
-Passenger rear goes up but not down and full control from the front

If I jumper the connector at the switches I can get both window to go up and down.

I have removed the master switch cleaned and re-installed...same situation.

My question is do the individual switches fail? Can they be taken apart to get at the inside to clean? I have had no luck separating the white part from the black part.

Other wise I am on a hunt for a broken wire between the door and car... anyone have any tips on this...as it seems like a challenge and requires cutting up the rubber boot just to get a look!

94 Camry v6 Wagon

[toyomoho]

Can you control each rear window fully (up and down) using the individual switches?

[ebud]

No...I guess my post is not clear..here goes again.

-Driverside rear goes down but not up using the switch and no control from the front using the master switch
-Passenger rear goes up but not down using the switch and I have full control from the front using the master switch.

Currently I have both rear switches disconnected and I can get the window to go up and down ( both sides )
if I jumper at the switch connector.

Make sense... I hope?

[new echo owner]

All the switches grounds through the master switch, in other words, beside checking for power at the switches, you have to make sure that they are grounding too.

Did you use an external power and ground source to operate the windows?

N.E.O.

[ebud]

No... I used 2 pieces of wire at the connector were the switch connects at each of the actual rear doors..I jump them one way and the window goes up... reverse it and down....

There is a blue and red wire the seem to be the power source and then a red (silver spot) and green (silver spot) that seem to power the actual window.

[new echo owner]

The blue wire is the constant power source with the key on, the red and green wire goes to the motor, and the red and green wire with the silver spots come from the master switch. Connect a test light to make sure both red and green wire with silver spots has ground connection without operating any switch. If it is going down but not going back up, it means the green/silver wire is not grounded or not getting a ground for the left rear window. For the right rear window, check the red/silver wire to see if it is grounded. Again, all switches ground through the master switch, if you are not finding a ground at the switches in the back then check the wiring.

N.E.O.

[ebud]

Thanks!

How do I do this?
"Connect a test light to make sure both red and green wire with silver spots has ground connection without operating any switch"

I am using a multimeter and I get no voltage when connecting these 2 with the car running.

What does the red/black strip do?

[new echo owner]

With the key off, check that there is not resistance between the terminals and ground or the vehicle body; one probe of the meter to the body, and one two the terminal, your meter should read zero or minimal reading.

The solid green and red wires go to the motor, the blue is the power feed, the other two should be from the master switch, either red/black tracer, or green/black tracer. Sometimes, the wiring color depends on where the vehicle was built, anyway, the above colors are based on a wiring diagram. Regardless of the color of the wires, the two that you are interested in are the ones going to the front.

N.E.O.

[toyomoho]

The passenger windows have two separate power sources to the individual window switches.

When controlling the passengers windows from the drivers console, power from the drivers console goes through the Green and Red striped wires to the individual window switch and then to the motor (via Red and Green wires). Reversing the drivers console switch position reverses the voltage polarity in the wires and at the motor to reverse motor direction.

This system allows the drivers console to control the windows.

Power to the passenger windows also travels via a Purple wire to each individual passenger switch. The power is directed by the passenger switch to either the Green or Red wiring going to the motor and controls motor direction. The return power leg of this circuit is through either the Green or Red striped wire from the drivers console switch.

The combined system allows operation by both drivers console and individual switches.

The drivers door windows only has power from the drivers console.

[ebud]

Done! Here's what I get when testing the various terminals to a ground on the body of the car.

Rear Driver
Blue=.68
Green/Black Strip = .60
Red/Black Strip = no reading
Red/Silver Dot = no reading
Green/ Silver Dot = no reading

Rear Passenger ( looks like this one should work ?)
Blue=.68
Green/Black Strip = .00
Red/Black Strip = .00
Red/Silver Dot = no reading
Green/ Silver Dot = no reading

So a ground issue? What's next?

PS- Pretty sure it's the green silver dot and red silver dot that got to the actual motor.

[toyomoho]

Based on your original complaint there may be two problems.

Bad rear passenger switch. The Green/Black and Red/Black wires to the drivers console appear OK as well as the power from the Purple wire.

For the drivers rear passenger circuit. Open wire for Red/Black (or maybe Red/Yellow). Green/Yellow and Purple wire appear OK.

Have you check the wiring between the drivers door and chassis for short and open wires.

[new echo owner]

Agree! Sounds familiar!

N.E.O.

[ebud]

Thanks for the support with this!

"Have you check the wiring between the drivers door and chassis for short and open wires."

No... but I guess I have to! It looks like an ugly job... so just cut open the boot and start looking for a potential short? Also does break down also occur between the rear door and chassis?

Also - Is it possible to open up the indiviual switches? I can't seem to separate the white part form the black.

[new echo owner]

There is a couple connectors behind the left kick panel by the door, which feed into the driver's door, you can disconnect the harness from there and check for continuity between the switch connector and the kick panel connector for the wires that are in question, Red/black. If you do find an open, it would be easier if you run a separate wire through the conduit to the switch, you will need to remove the door panel to do that.

You can take apart the switches but it is kind of a pain, you would probably feel like you need two pairs of hands to accomplish that. I use a couple of small screw driver's to gently push back the outer casing where it snaps onto the terminal part, it might help with a pair of pliers to pull it out. But I would actually suggest getting one from the wrecking yard.

If the right rear door is operating good from the master switch, it is doubtful that you have a broken wire in that circuit, but it won't hurt checking.

N.E.O.