3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
My daughters 96 5S-FE Camry failed to start the other day. A helping hand hooked up the cables wrong.... and here I am. Put a new battery in, and nothing. Replaced the blown 100 amp out front and now have headlights, dome light, door chime, and green lighted ignition, but nothing on the dash?Still won't start. She said when they hooked the cables up (WRONG), the horn blew and the headlights flashed?
I checked all the fuses in the engine compartment by the battery box and even changed the ones that I thought might be related. Did the same for the ones behind the (what I call) coin tray on the lower left side of the steering wheel too. Do you know of any other fusable links that I might have missed. Thanks
I visually checked all of them and replaced any that I thought was starting or charging related, including the 40 amp alternator even though it appeared to be good. Could it be a relay, and if so how do you check one?. I've heard of manual reset breakers(I think) and is there anything like this on these cars? Thanks
I visually checked all of them and replaced any that I thought was starting or charging related, including the 40 amp alternator even though it appeared to be good. Could it be a relay, and if so how do you check one?. I've heard of manual reset breakers(I think) and is there anything like this on these cars? Thanks
The best way to check it is use a test light or a DMM, visual is not always accurate espically where some are located. It is possible one of the larger amperage fuses is blown since it is affecting so many circuits are the same time. After the 100A Alt fuse, there are still a couple of large fuses in the 30A to 40A range, which feed a few smaller fuses.
Try to locate as many diabled circuits as possible, maybe from that someone can draw a conclusion as to which fuse could be the cause.
Today i pulled the negative battery cable and took out the starter relay. My Hayne's book mentioned manual reset breakers. I looked on the underside, saw the small reset button, so i pushed it and reinstalled. When i put the negative cable back on, the starter engaged by itself without the key in the ignition.
The starter solenoid should have a much smaller wire going to it possible Black/Red in color. Remove this wire from the terminal on the solenoid and reconnect the battery. If the engine continues to turn over you may have a stater solenoid switch that is welded closed. This switch is part of the starter motor.
If the engine does not turn over touch the small wire to its terminal and determine if the engine now turns over. If so, the problem may be with the starter relay that could be stuck closed or a bad ign switch. This relay is in one of the electrical boxes inside the engine compartment. Find the relay and determine if it was damaged.
Today i pulled the negative battery cable and took out the starter relay. My Hayne's book mentioned manual reset breakers. I looked on the underside, saw the small reset button, so i pushed it and reinstalled. When i put the negative cable back on, the starter engaged by itself without the key in the ignition.
I'm lost!!!
Do you have a picture of this 'reset button' that you had pushed? Was that the only thing you had done that caused the starter to engage by itself?
I said relay but its probably a breaker. It is in the front box driver side next to battery, marked ST on the underside cover. Small hole in center between prongs. I'll try and get a picture for you today. That was the only thing! Thanks
Last edited by ejrobins; 11-22-2008 at 08:40 AM.
Reason: add info
Looking forward to see the picture, because I have to admit that I am a little ignorant about that in the starter circuit. The only starter relay I am aware of is light Purple or Violet in color.
I'll get back on this again today and try the red/black wire. The thing that befuddles me, is that there is nothing on the dash, no ACC/ON/IGN. In using a test light, I get power to all the fuses in the engine compartment, but only the 7.5A ign. fuse in the coin tray. ECU-IG, GAUGE, STOP, WIPER, TURN, CIG/RADIO, and TAIL in this block have nothing on either side.
Q: Could the feed for this block be coming from the starter or ignition switch, and could failure of either create this problem. Thanks
Have you check the 40A AM1 fuse? It is one of those larger ones like the 100A one you had replaced. And it does go through the ignition switch to all those circuits you had mentioned plus for the Park/Neutral switch and the ECM.
N.E.O.
Last edited by new echo owner; 11-22-2008 at 09:20 AM.
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