3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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In the process of changing timing belt and I was hoping to change the seals while at it.
The crankshaft pulley slid off without incident, but the crankshaft timing pulley does not want to come off. I don't have the SST mentioned in the FSM. Does anyone have any guidance.
Use a little penetrating fluid first then try a pair of screwdrivers to pry from the backside. Use a couple of rags to protect whatever you're using to pry against on the engine.
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1995 Camry Wagon LE. 2.2 4cyl, 5S-FE, Auto, 187K
Got it out. Thanks for the help. A few taps and some gentle persuasion got it out.
With the area behind the cam and crank pulley's cleaned up it was easy to get everything lined up. Using the trick I found here to move the crank back one tooth to pick up the slack, got the new belt on and tensioned as per the FSM. New water pump and idler pulley. Started the car and sounds like it did when new. No more rattle from the belt slapping. Now I just need to pick up the timing cover gaskets that I forgot to order. I hope that my homemade 2X4 SST will be able to torque the crank bolt to 80 ft lb.
First ever timing belt job and thanks to TN looks like success.
Not sure if I should post in this older thread or start a new one, but I'm having the same problem. 99 5SFE, JPP.
Have tried the suggestions above and after two days of penetrating oil and tapping with mallet/small hammer, it's still not budging. Mine does not have threaded holes in it, so an SST or other puller is worthless.
I'm also very hesitant to pry behind it. I've tried a little with no luck. The thin secondary ring of teeth on the backside of the pulley worry me. I suspect they trigger the crank sensor and I'm concerned about breaking some. The pic below is not mine, nor is it a Camry, but it shows the secondary ring I'm talking about.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I've tried using the old belt and a c-clamp to try and pull it off. I'm wondering about next using heat on the pulley. Thanks!
It is not a separate ring, this is a part of crankshaft pulley, and yes, you don't want to destroy it. You pulley SHOULD have 2 threaded holes, I don't see why your Camry could be different from all others. Even if you don't have the crankshaft puller (8 bucks in AdvancedAutoParts on sale) you may just use 2 long screws (don't remember exact thread params, I believe it is M6) and pull pulley using these screws and pliers (or something like that).
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Camry Sedan 1996 LE V6 1MZ - 170 Kmiles
-------------------------------------------------- FOR SALE, Sedan/Wagon parts
The Following User Says Thank You to Nervous For This Useful Post:
I wish mine looked like that Here's a pic of mine:
Yes, I have removed the belt guide, it came off easily.
Incidently, that bump on the oil pump body aligns with the large pulley tooth on the left edge of the pulley key slot. I'm assuming that's the TDC alignment since I had the crank at TDC based on the outer crank pulley notch and the zero indicator on the lower timing cover before exposing it all. I was careful not to turn the crank at all. Can anyone confirm?
Last edited by Rattlin_Steele; 04-06-2010 at 10:26 PM.
In this case Haynes recommends to use two screwdrivers (taped) and put them between engine block and pulley and just pry it. I don't really see any other way....
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Camry Sedan 1996 LE V6 1MZ - 170 Kmiles
-------------------------------------------------- FOR SALE, Sedan/Wagon parts
If you have a propane torch, a little heat wouldn't hurt either. The little hand-helds don't put out enough BTU's to really do anything to a mass of steel that big, so work your way around it and don't worry about getting it to hot. You can't, well unless you did it for 20 minutes. But I bet you could do it for 10 and get it loose.
You have a brass drift or something other than an extension to whack it with?
Some of the larger Snap-on and other knock-off brands with angled tips do wonders for jobs like these too.
Nervous is that the 1mz part or an old picture from the past? Hopefully all your motors don't have the timing belt on the floor!
Not going to pry these off easily; the 1MZ flavor. At least they have threads. . .
Mines Lighter!
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95 Cam, V6 1MZ, Auto A541E, LE >245,000 miles!
This might be a long shot, but how about putting looping the old timing belt around the crankshaft gear to protect it, then if you have the room, put a large "C" clamp on either side of the gear. That way you have something you can pull on that won't screw up the gear. And maybe enough room between the "C" clamp and the crank snout to insert a bar and try to pry the gear off. Once it moves a bit, you can get a regular puller behind the gear and pull it the rest of the way off.
Nervous is that the 1mz part or an old picture from the past? Hopefully all your motors don't have the timing belt on the floor!
No, this pic was stolen from FAQ topic about changing TB on 5SFE motor. Pulley on 1MZ has many holes (and all my engines are 1MZ), exactly like on your photo below.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 73sport
Mines Lighter!
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Camry Sedan 1996 LE V6 1MZ - 170 Kmiles
-------------------------------------------------- FOR SALE, Sedan/Wagon parts
If you have a propane torch, a little heat wouldn't hurt either. The little hand-helds don't put out enough BTU's to really do anything to a mass of steel that big, so work your way around it and don't worry about getting it to hot. You can't, well unless you did it for 20 minutes. But I bet you could do it for 10 and get it loose.
You have a brass drift or something other than an extension to whack it with?
Some of the larger Snap-on and other knock-off brands with angled tips do wonders for jobs like these too.
Thanks on the tips regarding heat, especially the type and time limit. I was wondering about that. I think I'll give it a try. I have been using a brass drift.
This might be a long shot, but how about putting looping the old timing belt around the crankshaft gear to protect it, then if you have the room, put a large "C" clamp on either side of the gear. That way you have something you can pull on that won't screw up the gear. And maybe enough room between the "C" clamp and the crank snout to insert a bar and try to pry the gear off. Once it moves a bit, you can get a regular puller behind the gear and pull it the rest of the way off.
Good luck.
I tried the C-clamp with old belt. No luck unfortunately
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