92 camry 4cyl no start, got fuel, spark, combustion - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums


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3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 11-23-2008, 04:02 PM   #1 (permalink)
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92 camry 4cyl no start, got fuel, spark, combustion

new guy here, got a 92 camry, 216k miles, girlfriend drove home from work at 830pm, tried to go to work at 630am the car just cranked and wouldn't start. i've checked: spark-yes, fuel-yes-loosened the line on top of filter definetly have fuel and plugs are damp with gas, combustion-185-yes, distributor-yes(took off cap and everything looks fine), timing belt-yes(pulled cover off a little bit looks intact), when #1 cylinder is TDC distributor is pointing to #1 also, all fuses are good, trouble code= jumpe E1 and TE1, just keeps flashing constantly, stopped counting at 165, broke a boot on plug wires so i replaced the wires and plugs. ok thanks for checking this out
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Old 11-23-2008, 05:32 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Check for injector signal at the injector connector?

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Old 11-24-2008, 03:07 PM   #3 (permalink)
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inj check

checked the injectors resistance, they are 14.1 +-.2, spec is around 13.8, to check the signal going to the inj would i have someone crank the engine while i checked? just replaced the dist cap and rotor cause it was lookin pretty bad, spark is a little stronger now, still doesn't start. -justin
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Old 11-24-2008, 03:11 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Yes, you do need to have someone crank the engine over while checking for injector pulse. If the spark was weak before, you might want to check the plugs again to make sure that they are dry and not soaked with fuel. If the cylinders are flooded, it may not allow the engine to start.

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Old 11-24-2008, 09:54 PM   #5 (permalink)
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You said you get; spark, fuel, compression, timing, only other thing you need is AIR. Got air, or at least enough of it? How fast did compression come up? You do need to verify strong enough spark though, bright and blue. Flooding would also prevent ignition. Tried starting fluid? That doesn't need much to ignite it.
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Old 11-25-2008, 05:51 PM   #6 (permalink)
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comp came up after 3 cycles, first was around 80 second was around 160 then third went to 185, is that good enough or should have it just shot right up to 185? tried start fluid, not a good idea but hell im stumped. still didn't fire. just checked the dist, dist to ecu. all good. thanks for the imput, really appreciate it, justin
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Old 11-25-2008, 08:44 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Were the plugs wet, when you pulled them out? Did you find out if it has injector pulse? Have you check the ignition coil and pickup coil resistance?

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Old 11-25-2008, 09:55 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I'm still leaning towards timing belt. When was it last replaced?
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Old 11-25-2008, 11:08 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Measure the coil secondary

The coil secondary should measure between 9K and 15K ohms. You'll need to take off the distributor cap to measure.)

If it measure less, some of the secondary has shorted. The result is a spark that can be viewed but is too weak to ignite the mixture. I know that a coil measuring 6.8K ohms, not that far off of good, will result in not the slightest inclination for the engine to start.
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Old 11-26-2008, 12:55 PM   #10 (permalink)
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well i was still thinking the timing belt so i took the time and got a good look at it and verified all the marks line up and it was not in bad shape. the belt looks awesome, and all the timing marks were lined up the piston was TDC and the distributor was on #1 cylinder. so i totally ruled that out.
djb2- i'm not sure what the coil secondary is? i did check the NE+- and G-+ they were with in spec. air gap is good.
--does anyone know what the connection on the lower right hand side of dist is for? next to the cap bolt? can't find anything in the manual about it or how to test it. thanks guys -justin
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Old 11-26-2008, 01:14 PM   #11 (permalink)
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ok was able to check inj pulse. did it by measuring volts between the terminals in the wire harness, while friend cranked the engine. the voltage kept climbing with each pulse, .1, .25,.56,.89, 1.2, 1.3 then theni had him shut it off. is that how its supposed to go and is it good?,
i did here a click by the fuel regulator though, is that just it turning on?
how much do you know about the ecm? i can't get an signal between the FC terminal and the ecm. next step is to verify ecm power source. i'm supposed to check +B, +B1 and E1. E1 is the ecm ground but there is no wire in the wire harness that goes to that terminal, i checked anyhow and no voltage present. i checked the ecm ground(E1) to body ground and no continuity. if there is not supposed to be a wire there then i did it correctly and am supposed to repair/ replace the harness. let me know what you think of that. thanks for your time, justin

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Old 11-26-2008, 02:10 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Did you git a chance to check the color of the spark on the spark plug? It should be white/blue in color. If it's orangish...most likely the ignitor.

Pull a plug and attach a ground to the electrode. Have someone crank the engine and observe the spark.
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Old 11-26-2008, 06:22 PM   #13 (permalink)
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the spark is nice and blue,
as far as my last post, the E1 isn't there because i was looking at the wrong ecm diagram, so my check of +B, +B1 and E1, will not work till i can find the correct manual. i was using a manual from turbo ninjas, 92-96 4 cyl camry, the california spec and non ca spec doesn't show the ecm that i have in the car. the one i have has 3 seperate wire harnesses goin into it, 1 has 26 pins, 2nd has 16 pins, 3rd 22 pins. the third one is the one that doesn't mach the manuals. boy this is a good eh, thanks for your time once again, justin
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Old 11-26-2008, 08:16 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Those voltage are too low for the injectors. One of the wire to the connector should have a constant 12V, and the ECM grounds the other one to pulse the injector. How were you measuring the voltage? It would be easier to just use a test light and connect it across the connector, if it blinks brightly when you crank the engine over then it means you have injector pulse. E1 is just and engine ground, I think it is on the intake manifold. +B and +B1, you can test for 12V from the terminals to any body ground.

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Old 11-27-2008, 12:38 PM   #15 (permalink)
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k definetly better with test light, one terminal keeps the light on, with the key in "on" and while cranking, the other is on and flashes while cranked. sound like good results to you? i found the correct manual with the ECM i have, +B,+B1 and E1 all check out, checked fuel system ( #10, #20) good 2 go, checking for open in harness between E01, E02 and ECM soon, i'll keep ya updated thanks for the hints and help, justin
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