3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
I was driving to work the other day and the Camry started to have a intermittent shudder when driving at all different rpms idle-4500 and a lack of power (i needed to down shift in to 4th and floor it to get up a hill on the high way that every other day i could get up in 5th gear at part throttle) after work i get it home and its not missing any more the check engine mil came on (code 22 coolant temp sensor) and the car won’t rev past 4500 rmp like its hitting some kind of rev limiter. the tach reads normal
parts I’ve replaced already
coil
igniter
fuel pump
fuel filter
Would the coolant temp sensor case the car to go into limp home mode/safe mode? And would that case the lack of power and 4500 rmp rev limit?
alright i just replaced the coolant temp sensor and reset the ecu (unplugged ecu fuse) the mil went out but the motor still will not rev past 4500 rpm. i havent tryed driveing it yet to see if theres any lack of power
ok drove it last night, the power starts to come on around 3500 and it pulls good until 4500 (problem I’m having) and it feels like I’m hitting a wall when it hits this rev limit thing, it throws me forward in the seat like the brakes have been hit. Could this be a bad ecu? I know some guys at another web site dealing with Celica’s powered by the 5s have found a way to raise the rev limit on the stock ecu by replacing a crystal diode. Any ideas?
Hey thanks for gating back to me man, I don’t know if it’s a rpm limiter or not but that’s what it feels like. It’s a real head scratcher, mil light isn’t on but I wonder if the ecu is in safe mode. I just checked the exhaust I took out a o2 sensor before the cat to make sure it isn’t plugged and it still hit the 4500 rpm limit. I haven’t gotten it warm yet from driving after fixing the coolant temp sensor and replacing the coil, igniter, fuel pump and fuel filter, but i am going to drive this to work tonight so I’m sure it will get warm by the time i get there (23 miles) ill keep you posted
ok drove it to work last night and it ran great UNTIL 4500 rpm when it did its rev limit thing, its set one mil code (25 02 sensor lean) which is interesting because i just tuned the car with my wideband o2 2 weeks ago and it read as everything being optimal, so after i got out of work this morning i went home and pulled the plugs and there are carbon black which leads me to believe I have a bad o2 sensor
What other mod have you done beside the wideband O2? Did all this came about after you installed the O2? The code you gave indicate that this is an OBDI vehicle, what exact year is your car and engine?
The symptoms you gave may have something to do with the knock sensor, but have to verify that against the vehicle information you will have to provide.
the cars a 95 with the 2.2 5 speed
mods
shaved head .040
summit ign box (uninstalledfor testing)
summit 52k coil
2 tb intake manifold
4age dizzy cap with 8mm wires
vafc
ect
i just installedthe wideband to make sure my seting on the vafc were still good with thecolder air this time of year and it was fine. ive forgottoplug in the knock sen. befor and it trips the check mil for that right away
The knock sensor can also retard your timing and render the engine gutless at high rpm. Might try disconnecting the knock sensor and drive the car to see if it will rev pass 4500rpm. The CEL will be on but at least you know why.
ok man will try, when i got home form work this morning befor i shut of the car i unpluged the main 02 sensor and rev the car 2 or 3 times to look for any changes and there were none the mil light didnt even come on im going to drive it work like that tonight to see if anything changes
will keep posted
i drove to work last night without the 02 sensor plugged in and there was no change in how the car drove and the check mil didn’t come on after waking up this afternoon i let the car idle for 5 min the drove it around the block then let it idle again another 5 min the checked to see if the o2 sensor was putting out any voltage and it wasn’t, so i replaced it with a 3 wire heated o2 sensor reset the ecu and then drove it around the block once more. No change still have the 4500 rpm limit. parked it unplugged the knock sensor like neo suggested and drove it around the block at 2100 rpm in first gear the check mil light up and the ign. timing was severely cut back. parked car again and plugged back in the knock sensor and reset the ecu. I’m starting to lean tord the ecu. Is there a way to tell what loop (open or closed) the ecu is in?
Sound like the knock sensor circuit is working. Have you try removing some of the other mods to see if anything changes?
As far as close loop or open loop, I think you can tell it by the rate the CEL blinks with the TE1 and E1 jumped when the engine is running. When it is cold, the CEL blinks fast, once it warms up it blinks slow. However, I can't be 100% positive on this. Of course you can use a scan tool.
I’ve tried changing the "in/out" settings on the vafc to make sure it working properly with the map sensor and it is I’ve also tested the tps with the vafc (shows voltage in real time from tps) I’ve retarded ign timing 5 degrees to make sure I just don’t have a tank of bad gas(93 oct.) Today when I get up I’m going to ohm out the distributor, and that’s the last thing I can think of before the ecu it the only suspect
If you can remove some of the mods you might be isolate the cause easier, since the original parts have specs that you can rely on to determine if they are working or not. With some of the mods you have to figure out what works and what doesn't.
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