clutch change hours ??

[barthmonster]

94 Camry with 293K miles. (5SFE, 4 cyl.)

Have (possible) rear main seal leak, pretty bad too. I'm also on my original factory clutch.

I have the shop manuals and it looks like a fairly involved job to remove that tranny to get at the clutch and main-seal.

How many hours would you estimate for a first-timer. I just finished changing the timing-belt and cylinder-head gasket including removal/inspection/and re-installation of the cams, etc...

Thanks for help in advance.

Brad

[94cylcamry]

Almost 300,000 miles...and you're on the original clutch?

[barthmonster]

You bet! Probably a lot of commuting in that on the highway, but it has been a daily since new... Best car I've every owned, and I've had some good ones.

I found what I was looking for using "Search".

Still not positive it's the rear main, but dang I've replaced everything else and that bellhousing is awfully oily in front up to the slave cylinder (but the slave cylinder is dry itself). And the distributor O-ring is new yesterday, and new axle-seals last week.

Cra.... OOps!!

Thanks guys !!

[new echo owner]

Did you check the oil pressure switch? If it is the rear main, it usually don't get up onto the top of the bell housing.

N.E.O.

[bronzemaxell]

pro probably take 5 hours, i did it twice, first time 20 hours, 2nd time 10 hours.
it really depend on proper tools and if ur car is cooperative, stubborn axle, especially passenger side intermediate bearing, stubborn axle nuts, etc will kill a lot time.

[Knailgun]

Originally Posted by bronzemaxell

pro probably take 5 hours, i did it twice, first time 20 hours, 2nd time 10 hours.
it really depend on proper tools and if ur car is cooperative, stubborn axle, especially passenger side intermediate bearing, stubborn axle nuts, etc will kill a lot time.

I'd sya 10 at the optimal too, the subframe is more of a bitch than you realize

[barthmonster]

Thanks for the replies.

One guy on here did the clutch and didn't remove the subframe, but he admitted that changing-out the rear-main while 'hanging' the tranny from that engine-support rod you have to buy probably won't work. He did say that his method (leaving the trans hanging from the engine-support 'rod') may work on the rear main IF you remove the whole cover-plate and swap the rear-main 'off-car'.

Either way I'll shoot for lots of study and preparation and about 10-12 hours then... This time I'm labelling EVERYTHING !!

I'll look at the oil pressure switch but I thought that was pretty high and in front. Isn't it on the head ?? This whole thing is clean except under the slave-cylinder it gets really oily...

[bronzemaxell]

i changed the clutch and transmission without taking off the subframe on 5sFE,
i've done just clutch alone without removing the subframe on both v6 and i4 gen3 gen4 camry,
everyone else told me i have to remove the subframe, but i didn't, and saving a lot of time and work, got the job done.


here are a few links to show subframe drop is not needed.

Clutch Replacement Write-Up



my clutch replacement with a lot of pictures

[Eye8Pussies]

those are great write-ups and it's doable, though it must be an absolute bitch to do the v6 that way

good to hear that you were able to get the seal in just fine the way that you did it...but I personally would probably not have risked that. A seal that big can start leaking pretty easily if not installed properly. I actually didn't even touch my seal when I did my swap because it was in perfect condition and I was afraid of causing leaks by replacing it and not having a proper seal installation tool that size to get it back in evenly. as it is, I worry every time I do a timing belt about all the camshaft seals since you're always installing them on such and angle lol



and of course, the other option to do the job is to pull the engine and tranny out the top of the car. not the easiest way, but after the first couple of times, it can be easily done in less than a day in and out presuming nothing gets stuck or broken.

[new echo owner]

The best way to do the job depends very much on what kind of equipment you have, and where and how you are going to get the job done.

If you are doing the work in the driveway of your home, pulling the engine and trans out from the top like Eye8Pussies said would be more simpler and straight forward, not that there aren't other ways. If you know what needs to be done, you can pull the transaxle back without completely dropping the subframe to get to the clutch and then the rear main seal, however, the amount of room you have to work with can be a problem when installing the seal.

N.E.O.

[barthmonster]

Is that plate at the location of the rear-main seal all 1 piece ?? Someone here said you could remove the plate itself, install the new seal in it 'off the car' and then re-install the plate. Is that correct ??

With limited room and mine is bound to be even more greasy than that '93 in the pic's I'd rather take that route if possible.

Thanks for the posts, I'd only read 1 of them.

[barthmonster]

Anyone have a favorite clutch-kit??

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/se...94965779+11921

Or do you guys prefer factory toyota parts in the clutch arena...?

[new echo owner]

Have used a couple of those, seems to work OK.

Yes, there is a retainer for the rear main seal that you can remove; however, be careful when installing it back on, since you will be trying to fit the seal over the crank while trying not to mess up the sealer for the lower edge where it seals with the oil pan. There is a metal gasket between the retainer and the block.

N.E.O.

[barthmonster]

I did the front main that way. Removed the whole oil-pump and swapped out the front main in the pump then re-installed the pump. Used an extra gasket, but I was worried about the room.

If you're a gentle parts-handler type of guy, re-installation is not an issue, just lube the seal and slip the component with the seal in it back on the crank snout.

Thanks!

Clutch Kit ??

[new echo owner]

Originally Posted by barthmonster

Clutch Kit ??

Oops! I had used a couple of the Sachs ones, they seems to work OK. Not sure about the others. However, if I remember correctly, the Toyota parts aren't that much higher, even though they come separately.

N.E.O.