DIY:1993 Camry 5SFE A/T Radiator Replacement - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums


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Old 12-07-2008, 10:27 PM   #1 (permalink)
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DIY:1993 Camry 5SFE A/T Radiator Replacement

My radiator decided to start leaking the other day. I gathered up the parts, took a bunch pics so here's a guide on how to do it.

Tools, parts and other stuff needed to get started:

1:New Radiator ~$145 I got mine from Autozone. Transpro brand name.
2:New hardware and parts
a. 8 10mm bolts for fan housings(get these from the dealer)
b. lower rubber supports for radiator
c. upper mounts
d. upper and lower radiator hoses(if you have leaks or cracks at either ends of your hoses, now is a good time to replace them)
e. thermostat and o-ring gasket-optional-(good time for PM on this since you'll have all the coolant drained)
f. hose clamps
I was able to re-use all my old hardware and hoses but you may want replace them. Check the condition of your existing hardware before you order parts.

3:Tools and accessories
a. oil drain pan
b. separate drain pan for coolant(an empty paint tray works well)
c. 19mm box end wrench
d. flat tip screwdriver
e.c hannel lock pliers(preferably with the round center teeth.)
f. 1/4" drive ratchet, 12mm and 10mm sockets(use 6-point sockets if you have them.12-point sockets can strip rusty bolt heads)
g. anti-seize lubricant
h. rags or shop towels
i. penetrating lube(I prefer the PB stuff)
j. New coolant(If you get the red stuff from the dealer, buy the concentrate and mix it 50/50 with distilled water. It costs the same as one gallon of 50/50 pre-dilluted. One gallon = ~$15)
k. 1 quart of Dexron/Mercon II ATF
l. small funnel


Ok. Let's get started. Park your car in a level spot or as close as you can get. You won't need to jack up the car. Put it in "P" and set the e-brake. Let the engine cool down for a while. Remove the radiator cap. Remove the small hose that runs to your coolant reservoir. Locate the drain plug at the bottom of the radiator. Set your drain pan under the plug and twist it counter-clockwise to start draining the coolant.




Put your oil drain pan under the transmission and remove the hoses from the feed and return lines(circled in blue). Move your rubber hoses under the cross brace to allow the old ATF to drain from the trans cooler(red dots).



Remove your upper radiator hose and O2 sensor connector(circled in red). Use your chanel lock pliers to release the hose clamp. Move the hose under the throttle cable so it stays out of the way.



Remove the lower radiator hose from the thermostat housing. Leave the other end of the hose on the radiator for now.



Remove the two connectors for your fan motor and temperature switch. Squeeze the tab first, then pull them off. These two are near the battery. The connectors are keyed(shaped differently)so don't worry about mixing them up later.



Remove the connector for the other fan motor. This one is on the opposite side of your radiator.



Use your 1/4" ratchet and 12mm socket to remove the upper mounts.



Set aside the mounts and bolts. The plastic rails are on the sides of the radiator. They will probably fall off when you remove the old radiator. My new radiator did not come with replacements. Remove your radiator.



Set your old radiator on the ground or somewhere you have room to work with it. Apply some penetrating spray to all the bolts circled in red. While it soaks in, Remove your hoses(blue dots). Take a flat tip screwdriver and gently pry off the lower mounts(yellow arrows). Then take your 10mm socket and remove all 8 fan housing bolts(red circles). One of my fan housing bolts was seized and broke when I tried to remove it. Its a good idea to order new ones. I was lucky enough that my hex bolt kit had the right size for a spare.



Set aside the hoses.



The white colored connector is your temperature switch. Remove the connector, then use your 19mm box wrench to unscrew the switch.



Ahhh nice shiny new radiator. Set it on the foam blocks that came with your radiator or something soft so you don't damage the fins.



New hardware that came with mine. 8 square nuts and 2 copper fittings.



Before setting the fan housings on the new radiator, take your flat tip screwdriver and scrape out the rust from the bolt sleeves. The ones at the bottom were very rusty.



Set your fan housings onto the new radiator. Take your new square nuts and install them into the mounts(red dot). Apply some anti-seize lube to your 10mm bolts and re-install them.



Re-install your temperature switch and wire connector. Take your 19mm wrench and attach the copper fitting. Note the direction and shape of the fitting. Use your old radiator as a guide for this.



Install the other copper fitting. Again, note the direction and shape. Look at your old radiator if your not sure.


Re-install your transmission hoses and the lower radiator hose. This is how everything should look. Notice how the transmission hoses are different lengths.



Install the new radiator. Put the lower mounts on before setting it into the engine bay. If the lower mounts won't stay on the radiator, put them into the frame first and set the radiator into them. Re-install your upper mounts. The wire sitting on the exhaust shield is for your O2 sensor.



Re-install your transmission hoses.




Install your upper radiator hose, O2 sensor connector, fan motor and temp switch connectors(red dots). Don't forget about the connector on the RF side of the radiator for the fan motor.



Connect the lower radiator hose to the thermostat housing.

Make sure the drain valve is closed and start adding coolant. Fill it up to the top. Squeeze the rad hoses to remove the air. Put the Radiator cap on and start the engine. While its warming up, you need to check the ATF level. Sit in the driver's seat and apply the brake. Move the shifter through the gears in this pattern: P,R,N,D,2,L Then from L,2,D,N,R,P Do this slowly so the transmission can engage each gear. Now you can check the "cold" level for the transmission fluid. Pull your dipstick and check the fluid level. It should be just below the bottom mark. Since you drained the fluid from the old trans cooler, you will need to add about 1/4 to 1/2 quart of trans fluid to refill the new trans cooler. Put the small funnel on the trans dipstick tube to add the ATF. After adding the fluid, move the shifter through the same pattern and check the fluid level again. It should be between the two bottom marks on the dipstick.

Take the car for a short drive to get everthing heated up. Park your car with the engine running and open the hood. Check to make sure the fans are cycling. Check your trans fluid level again. This time the level should be between the top 2 marks. Let the engine cool off and top off the radiator(DO NOT REMOVE THE RADIATOR CAP WHEN THE ENGINE IS HOT!!!) Re-fill your coolant reservoir halfway between the "Low" and "Full" marks.

Thats it, your done. If I've left anything out, please let me know. I can post more pics or additional info if you need it.

Last edited by 96paseo; 10-19-2009 at 08:18 PM. Reason: spelling errors add'l info
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Old 12-08-2008, 09:51 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Are there light weight radiators??? I heard that would be one way of loosing some weight.
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Old 12-08-2008, 11:46 AM   #3 (permalink)
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The radiator is pretty light as it is. It only weighs a few pounds without the fanhousings attached. A racing radiator may be a bit lighter but probably a minimal weight difference over stock.

Check out his thread. Weight Reduction Mods

There's good info here for putting your camry on a diet.
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Old 12-08-2008, 12:24 PM   #4 (permalink)
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great write up, thanks! stickied!
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Old 12-08-2008, 12:44 PM   #5 (permalink)
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WOW! GREAT DIY writeup!
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Old 06-23-2009, 04:56 PM   #6 (permalink)
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3rd Generation

Great DIY write-up!. The "Ready_Rad Radiator" from advance auto parts (432363) does not fit the car. There's no way to install the coolant temperature sensor. It turned out that I got a "Transpro" from Autozone. No problem so far. Thanks for the post, it saved me a lot of time!
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Old 07-24-2009, 10:35 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Old 07-24-2009, 05:22 PM   #8 (permalink)
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this is great, i just bought a new rad on ebay for $54. So this thread is gona help me replace my old leaky one.
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Old 07-25-2009, 02:58 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Just bought one of those radiators

Quote:
Originally Posted by DAT RICE View Post
this is great, i just bought a new rad on ebay for $54. So this thread is gona help me replace my old leaky one.
I just bought one (or rather had the GF buy one for her car).
There are several FleaBay vendors in the Torrance CA area, all with about the same total price. They are probably shipped from the same warehouse (the return address was 1217 W. Artesia Blvd. Compton 90220), and likely just d/b/a names for the same vendor. It was being shipped to CA, so we picked the one with $30 shipping and lower price, rather than free shipping, to minimize the tax. For parts being shipped out of CA you probably should pick the eBay part listing with free shipping just in case you need to do a warranty return or refund.

We ordered Wednesday afternoon, and the radiator arrived Friday morning -- less than 48 hours the order.

The radiator was Made in China (where else?), and was branded Silla part number 7270A. It also had a Transpro (432363) part number, suggesting that it was sold under that name as well. Other numbers were DPI: 1318/1428 and VCCS: 9760. So it's probably the same part as Advance Auto, Pep Boys and Kragen were selling for about $120-$140.


The packaging was pretty well considered -- a cardboard box only slightly larger than the radiator, with four corner Styrofoam blocks. The transmission cooler tubes were already installed, so the hardware bag had only eight fan nuts. The only prep needed was putting the nuts in their slots, and removing an o-ring sealed plug from temperature sensor/switch bung.

The new radiator came with a drain petcock, but not a radiator cap, plastic side pieces, bottom or top rubber mounts.

The instructions above were almost perfect -- there is little I can really add. I was able to release the cable clamp by inserting a small flat screwdriver from the side and reuse it later -- better than cutting if you don't have a new cable retainer from Toyota.

The job was as sloppy as I was expecting. Less oil flowed out of the tubes from the transmission than I expected, but I should have taped the hoses up because they contained more oil than the initial oil drips suggested. As soon as I laid the radiator flat, the tubes flopped down, spilling oil. And no matter what angle you drain at, there is still more coolant and oil trapped. As soon as you move the radiator from flat, both oil and coolant drip out.

Follow-up: Apparent success. The only problem is that the top support is a little loose. If the rubber doesn't expand, I'll need to put in a spacer or just fill with some black silicone. Cleaning the old radiator for recycling was a hassle. I think that I spent more time trying to clean out and drain the old radiator than the actual install.

Added Info:
The drain at the bottom has a fitting for a drain hose. The fitting takes a 8mm or 5/16" ID hose. A 4" length is long enough to extend below the splash pan when draining.
More info:
If you want to use the drain, you'll need to cut out the plug molded into the hose fitting section. This is much easier if you know about the plug before installation!

Last edited by djb2; 12-02-2009 at 05:16 PM. Reason: Added info about drain fitting.
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Old 07-25-2009, 05:48 PM   #10 (permalink)
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ya i got mine with free shipping. thanks for that reply. I was getting worried that i may of bought some junky radiator. I'll reply again when it arrives. my uncle, a mechanic, will install it for free yay!
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Old 05-10-2010, 08:39 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Thanks 96paseo and RningOnFumes you have done a great DIY. I changed my radiator today.

However, I have an issue. My fans stopped working. I ran my car for an hour an half and drove it for 2 miles but fans are not working. Today was a cold and windy day. But is there any quick suggestion to check the working of fans?

Thanks to everyone else too.
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Old 05-10-2010, 08:44 PM   #12 (permalink)
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If it's not over heating, then don't worry about it. They only come on when it starts getting too hot under there.
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Old 05-10-2010, 10:10 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Nice writeup!

A couple other things to note:

- The procedure is pretty much the same on a Gen4.

- If you're willing to work from underneath some, removing the engine compartment "undercover", aka splash plate, the metal plate under that part of the compartment, makes it pretty easy to get to the drain and the transmission line fittings and capture the fluids more cleanly. This may not be worth it for those that drive on salted roads however.

- I didn't disconnect the transmission lines from the transmission, just left them behind. Only disconnected from the radiator end and let it drain into a catch pan (didn't drain much at all). Plugged the transmission lines with the insulator end of old spark plugs and zip-tied them off to something higher up and out of the way while working on the radiator.
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Old 09-05-2010, 02:54 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96paseo View Post
My radiator decided to start leaking the other day. I gathered up the parts, took a bunch pics so here's a guide on how to do it.
THANKS! I'm not really much at DIY with my cars but this was so well done I could tell as long as I followed your steps I would be safe. Probably the hardest part was just checking and double checking the guide to make sure I was following it correctly. After that replacing the the radiator was a piece of cake. I got my raditor online for $75 shipped so you helped me save over $350 I was quoted for the job. Being out of work at this that is a HUGE savings.

Thanks again!
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Old 09-05-2010, 02:56 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tekno9000 View Post
Thanks 96paseo and RningOnFumes you have done a great DIY. I changed my radiator today.

However, I have an issue. My fans stopped working. I ran my car for an hour an half and drove it for 2 miles but fans are not working. Today was a cold and windy day. But is there any quick suggestion to check the working of fans?

Thanks to everyone else too.
I believe if you turn the AC on the fans will kick on.
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