3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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I have 95 camry 5sfe with a cold start issue. In order to start my car, I had to hold the gas while pumping the brakes until it decided to stay running. I had to do that for a few months and that doesn't work anymore. As soon as the RPMs stick at 800, I usually just go. Yesterday I put it into drive and it stalled out.
The car has recent plugs, wires, cap, rotor, TB cleaned. Any idea what may be causing this?
I'm open to any suggestions here, I've had my car for 256k, it's too soon to part with it!
Last edited by Shelleybeanz; 12-08-2008 at 01:24 AM.
Did you remove your IAC and clean it when you cleaned your throttle body? The IAC motor can freeze up over time due to rust. Assuming you have the 5SFE motor. I don't know about the V6's.
It is a the 5sfe. I took the IAC off and cleaned it with throttle body cleaner. (Was gonna pull the IAC and check how it ohm'd out to see if it warranted replacing, but my 3 year old lost my volt meter.) The car started beautifully after that for a week. Then it started to stall out which hadn't been a problem before.
I'm thinking of just taking it to the machanic for an "estimate" and just getting the details of what needs fixin then fixin it myself!
This only happens when it's cold. After the car warms up, it runs perfectly. It's just starting it that there is a problem. If I hold the gas long enough (2-3 mins at 1200- 1500 rpms) while pumping the brakes, it generally corrects itself. The last time I tried to start it, It seemed to be fine then stalled when I put it into gear.
I have the same problem on my 93 LE. I removed this vacuum hose and the idle went up to normal(1100-1250rpm).
Get someone to start the car for you then open the throttle a little to keep it from stalling. Pull off the vacuum hose and see if your idle goes up. If it does, you most likely have clooged ports in the TB or the IAC motor is frozen up/shorted. Is your CEL on?
I used to start it just by holding the gas steady at say 1200 RPMs then it would jump to about 1500 with the same pressure on the gas pedal. Then I knew it would start. Pumping the brakes makes that jump occur much faster.
This hasn't thrown a code at all. I'll try pulling the vaccuum hose on Wednesday. I've got school and cold weather dragging me down..
Thanks for all the suggestions, I'll let you guys know how it works out!!
From your description, I would suggest testing the engine coolant temp sensor; it sounds like you don't have fast idle when cold.
N.E.O.
I second this. "it sounds like you don't have fast idle when cold." Nor a rich enough mixture to properly start a cold engine. Check the engine coolant temp sensor when the engine is morning cold. You will have to find a volt/ohmeter to do this. You will also need the specs from any manual. There are manuals stickied at the top of the Toyota Camry forum over at AutomotiveForums.com, that are available for free downloading. Download the generation 3 manual.
Mike
Last edited by Mike Gerber; 12-08-2008 at 05:09 PM.
sounds similar to my problem
98 camry 2.2 liter
doesnt start, but mainly when its cold AND damp
it chugs and barely holds on to life if i start it in these conditions, i generally rev it to 3 or 4 grand and it settles at 2 grand to warm up, and runs fine
runs fine when its warm out to
runs fine one ive gotten the RPM stable
let me know what ur problem was if u figure it out, ill try that with mine
im running out of options
ive tried spraying a bottle of water to check the ignition coils but those are fine!
was giving me problems so i did sparks and wires
didnt change nething
Went out today with the intentions of pulling the vac hose to see what it did.... and my good old reliable car started right up. Anybody else have a camry that seems to behave better when you threaten to replace it? haha... i'm gonna drive it tonight and see how it behaves...
I would bet my money that it's the engine coolant temperature(ECT) sensor. My guess is that yours is fouled up, and is now telling the car's ECM that the engine is hot at all times, regardless of the actual temperature. It is a quick fix...right in the front of the engine...screw the old one out, screw the new one in. Only costs 29.99 at autozone.
Wouldn't it be better to do some testing first to verify that it is indeed the ECT?
There are difference ways in making repairs, keep throwing parts at it and hope that you hit it on first try or do some diagnosis and make the repair to confirm your findings.
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