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3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 12-10-2008, 08:03 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Spoiler LEDs

This is for a 2000 Camry. One of the LEDs in the spoiler is out. I removed the four screws at the bottom of the LED panel, but how do I take the panel out?

I did a search in the forums about this, and found one explanation that was rather confusingly written.
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Old 01-18-2010, 05:42 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Old thread. Same question... sort of. More LEDs are burnt out now.

I know there's some adhesive strip holding the LED panel on. I remember there being a thread about this, but I can't seem to find it. How do I remove the panel from the spoiler? Do I use a heat gun to soften the adhesive? Or do I just pry it off with a wide flathead? What are the best methods to remove the old adhesive crap after the LED strip is removed? I use lighter fluid to remove sticker gunk, but I'm not sure this is safe for automotive paint?

Also, how do you remove the spoiler? Is it bolted on to the trunk lid, or is there adhesive there also?

Lastly, I've searched eBay and can't find any LED strips/panels for a 2000 camry. Does anyone have a good website these can be purchased from? I've also been unable to even locate the spoiler in Toyota's diagrams.
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Old 01-18-2010, 07:57 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I have the same spoiler, is it factory stock or was it an addon later at the dealer? I don't see many camry's with it! The ones that have the spoiler tho, the LED bar tends to look the same.
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Old 01-18-2010, 09:09 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Have you removed the spolier to get the panel off? I have no idea how you could get those 4 bolts off with it on the car.

I installed a stock spoiler on mine a while back and it comes with two bolts on the underside and these two tab things. Mines was used so the old adhesive sticky thing was worn out so i rtvd it.

Basically unbolt the 2 10mm nuts on each side and then gently pry it up.

I see tons of cars with the same prob, not just camrys so there's gotta be some place to buy the led panel itself i would think.
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Old 01-18-2010, 01:30 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lightning Blue View Post
I have the same spoiler, is it factory stock or was it an addon later at the dealer? I don't see many camry's with it! The ones that have the spoiler tho, the LED bar tends to look the same.
Yes it's stock. No idea if it came that way from the factory or was later added at the port. The wheels and electronic rearview mirror were added at the port, for example. At least that's what the dealer tells me, because no Camry's of these years were factory equipped with electronic rearviews and my wheel center caps do not bear the Toyota logo.

And yeah, I also don't see too many with this spoiler either.
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Old 01-18-2010, 01:35 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carsrus View Post
Have you removed the spolier to get the panel off? I have no idea how you could get those 4 bolts off with it on the car.

I installed a stock spoiler on mine a while back and it comes with two bolts on the underside and these two tab things. Mines was used so the old adhesive sticky thing was worn out so i rtvd it.

Basically unbolt the 2 10mm nuts on each side and then gently pry it up.

I see tons of cars with the same prob, not just camrys so there's gotta be some place to buy the led panel itself i would think.
I used a screw driver that was shaped like this: |______
.................................................. ........................|

I don't remember what they're called. It takes forever to get a single screw off this way, but I did it... about a year ago. Haven't tried prying the LED strip off yet though. It's stuck really well. I was wondering if using a heat gun would soften the adhesive.

I thought I did see a couple nuts on the trunk lid though! I will check that out.
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Old 01-18-2010, 02:01 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I wouldn't use a heat gun as you could ruin the plastic that you're trying to remove.
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Old 01-18-2010, 07:40 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I have a bunch of Superflux LumiLEDs that are red and bright if you need some. Or you can send the thing to me so I'll solder them in for you. Just let me know if you need anything and I'll try to see if I have it lol
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Old 01-19-2010, 08:04 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I have a brand new Toyota spoiler LED light kit (compelete with pads, harness and connectors), sitting in front on me right now. The spoiler is also held on by a double face tape pads that mounts between the mount of the spolier and the trunk lid in addition to the screws. The instructions shows how to use monofilament (fishing line) to break the spoiler free for the trunk lid by pulling it between the two. The light bar uses double face tape and screws to hold it to the spoiler. The spoiler shouldn't come off to replace the light bar. There were two spolier designs used for these models, Koito and Hella. From what I see in the instructions, The Hella spoiler light bar is held on by two screws and the Koito spoiler is held on by 4 screws. This part number is for a Koito spoiler and the part number is PT47A-06985. It is listed for a 97-98 Camry, Corolla and Tercel. I have a 1995 LE Camry. How I came about this part is the LED light bar on my 1995 Camry's spoiler started having problems. Only half the LEDs would come on. Later the rest stopped working. It looked like the LED bar stopped working. I went and order a new LED bar from the dealer, without taking a closer look at it. I connected the new light to the wiring harness connector in the truck and I wanted to checked it out before I installed it. The new one also didn't work. I started to trace back the wiring until I found a broken wire inside the wiring harness, right were it goes into the body. I had to remove the covering on the harness until I found the broken wire. The wire in the harness is a small gauge. Once I repair the wire, the old light worked. So I have this new one available if you are interested. I can scan the instructions and send them to you to look at. PM me if interested.
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Old 01-20-2010, 02:12 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Oldcar95 good call on the fishing line. It works well on double stik'EE tape where you want to protect the finish.

I'd also suggest painters masking tape around the stands and apply slow gentle force or you'll beer can the deck if the adhesive remains stuck.

As for final extraction of the LED's, an Exacto blade but be careful. It just seems its not service friendly. Goo Gone desolves many of these things as does dentured alcohol. Both have to sit and both are slow. Chunk it out as best possible.

www.Digikey.com has many LED's but as you gather, you need to open the lens which is likely sonic welded and not friendly to open, and then extract the failed LED's AND find replacements. Best of luck on that one.

Getting a new replacement assembly is the best choice.

Funny all these LED's are supposed to last for ever. The automotive tail lamp industry has proven this to be a farce!
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Old 01-20-2010, 10:05 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 73sport View Post
Funny all these LED's are supposed to last for ever. The automotive tail lamp industry has proven this to be a farce!
I think they don't expect most people to drive their vehicles to over 338,000 miles.

My A/C control LEDs are still burning though.
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Old 01-21-2010, 05:27 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Here a procedure to test the wiring:

Test your wiring and harness to your spoiler LED light bar before removing the old one.
Start by removing the trunk lid lining. This will expose the wiring harness and connector to the LED light bar.
You can trace the wiring from the light bar to the connectors that is in the trunk lid.
Now unplug the connector. You will now need a volt meter (digital or analog style). (Or you can use a 12 volt DC test light.) Using the meter probes, touch the male pins in the connector that is coming from the car’s wiring harness. (Note: not the connector from the LED bar).
Now have someone step on the brake pedal. This turns on the LED light bar. There should be around 12 ½ volts DC at the connector.
If not, check to see the meter probes are making contact with the male pins on the connector. If the meter is still not reading, then there could be a broken wire somewhere.
On my car, there was a broken wire in the harness right were it went into the body. I had to peel back the outer wrap of the harness and traced each wire until I found the two wires which go to the LED light bar. I soldered a small piece of wire between the broken ends. I added heat shrinking around the wire. Then wrapped electrical tape around the wires and the wiring harness. The wires in this harness flex as the trunk is opened and closed. These wires ran out of the body, up along the trunk hinge, then into the trunk lid and ending with a connector near the middle of the trunk. Which is plugged in to the harness which comes from the LED light bar.
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Old 11-20-2010, 01:58 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
On my car, there was a broken wire in the harness right were it went into the body. I had to peel back the outer wrap of the harness and traced each wire until I found the two wires which go to the LED light bar.
Thanks MUCH for posting this experience. I had a very similar problem. In my case, all three wires were broken. It was pinched frequently enough to them. Like you I solder the extension, put on heat sink, and I put on twist ties to keep them from being pitched.
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Old 11-20-2010, 03:29 PM   #14 (permalink)
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oldcar95 out of curiosity, how much was the spoiler light kit from the dealer?
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